My first class A - 81 Holiday Rambler - lite restoration

fasteddie313 · September 20, 2015, 04:18 PM

Roof is done, whew.. Massive job that, took a second gallon of goop, we'll see what it looks like in a couple days..

circleD · September 20, 2015, 04:30 PM

That is correct Rick!!! You my friend have a custom window. Nothing wrong with that.

fasteddie313 · September 20, 2015, 05:31 PM

Quote from: circleD on September 20, 2015, 04:30 PMNothing wrong with that.

Other than the fact that it holds water fit to rival a colander..

What kind of tool is usually used to dig the old caulk off the seams of the exterior siding areas in order to replace it with new?

I have 2 rolls of butyl tape on order at the local hardware and I want to pull these windows and re-paste them professional like.. Maybe others too, an interesting thing I think is that this whole camper has black gasket like stuff behind the windows as opposed to butyl tape, is that OEM or a sign of previous resealing?

The only other leaks (I can find) are that all the windows felt bottom tracks get wet when it rains, I don't think it comes in. IDK, but the bottom slide tracks get wet/damp..
How do ya fix this?

TerryH · September 20, 2015, 06:23 PM

Butyl tape - you would likely find it cheaper and in stock at a glass shop. They buy it by the case as opposed to by the roll. Thicknesses 1/16, 1/8, 3/16 and 3/16 and 1/4 with shim.
Gasket between the window frame and coach skin is unlikely. Gasket is considered a "dry" seal while butyl is a "wet" seal which "bonds" to both surfaces.
If you are replacing the butyl you have to remove the window and clean off all the old butyl. Apply the new to the frame - not the skin. Use one piece per window (important), do not stretch. Start at the middle of the bottom. Slightly overlap the joint and meld the tape together. Leave the paper on until installing the window.
Butyl doesn't like the oil on your fingers.
Avoid over tightening. Any excess butyl can be trimmed with a razor knife.
If you intend to also caulk the frame to skin, keep the butyl back an eighth inch or so on the frame to provide a void that you can fill and tool with the caulking.
Water in the bottom felt is normal and unavoidable. On the outside of the window frame, bottom horizontal you should see some slots. These are weep holes to allow excess water to drain out. Check them regularly for blockage.

Terry

circleD · September 20, 2015, 07:08 PM

The only minor leaks I have had was one of the clearance lights on the front of my HR had the original silicon deteriorated and a small piece of the tape on the fiberglass end cap. The windows have thick black stuuf and are fine.
I think we are getting of topic and need to start a new thread. It staaryed out as a light restoration or did you mean "lite"?

fasteddie313 · September 20, 2015, 07:51 PM

Oops, yeah..
I meant lite, like all the things I have to do to get this rig up to snuff, lightly restore, rolling restoration kinda.

I haven't really found any leaks other than those "custom" windows but I find evidence of leaks like the bathroom ceiling was slightly sagging and a softish spot above a cupboard, rearmost passengers side back bed in the overhead compartment there.. I'm pretty sure the bathroom damage is from a washing machine as the floor is bad out there in the middle but good up against the wall..

fasteddie313 · September 24, 2015, 10:40 AM

Roof sealed, all questionable exterior caulking replaced, electric automatic steps now working very well, floors cut out for replacement boards and all prepped, converter still rocking with the fuse, grill mounts fixed, ACs all cleaned out from the bottom side and working well/motors oiled, bathroom ceiling back up where it's supposed to be, generator wiring fixed (bad wire nut connections) running well and powering great but ticking a bit much, thousand little things fixed/adjusted..

Still need to get a faucet for the kitchen sink and then test the water system, LP system also has not been touched yet, figure out the wiring for the drivers side fan that I got working and put back together, need to get keys made for compartment locks, do something for flooring cover after I get the subfloor back together, likely more stuff.. It sure is coming along nicely..

After I get the coach side satisfactorily sorted then I'll start dinking with the chassis side.. Another whole can O worms and $$..

fasteddie313 · September 24, 2015, 10:44 AM

Oh, and another thing...
I have found that acetone takes the white exterior paint off like magic in a couple of spot tests, also the side striping.. As of right now I believe my new paint scheme is going to involve a lot of black, white, and bare aluminum accents..

ClydesdaleKevin · September 24, 2015, 07:32 PM

Quote from: fasteddie313 on September 20, 2015, 04:18 PM
Roof is done, whew.. Massive job that, took a second gallon of goop, we'll see what it looks like in a couple days..

Any time I have ever FIRST coated a roof, it usually takes me 5 whole gallons, in multiple coats. Every 3 years or so, I recoat it with another gallon or two...whatever it takes to recoat and make it bright white again after cleaning it.

Kev

ClydesdaleKevin · September 24, 2015, 07:35 PM

Quote from: fasteddie313 on September 20, 2015, 05:31 PM
The only other leaks (I can find) are that all the windows felt bottom tracks get wet when it rains, I don't think it comes in. IDK, but the bottom slide tracks get wet/damp..
How do ya fix this?

If that window is custom, make sure it has drains at the bottom like the rest of your windows. If it doesn't have drains, that might be your problem, and you might have to drill some drain holes.

Kev

fasteddie313 · September 24, 2015, 07:49 PM

I didn't coat the roof, I only sealed the seams..

Good call on the holes in the windows.. I'll go look..

Went to the junkyard today and scored an awesome pink captains chair for the front passenger's seat, a great kitchen sink and faucet out of a travco, light bulbs and covers, fuses, knobs, switch, etc.. I'll post a pic of todays haul in a while..

Check it out on google maps.. But a lot is different since that map pic was taken, must have been during a clean out time where they scrap a lot of stuff, there is more stuff there now, much denser..
https://www.google.com/maps/place/7605+Lake+of+the+Woods+Rd,+Bellaire,+MI+49615/@44.9189686,-85.1731228,543m/data=!3m1!1e3!4m2!3m1!1s0x4d4ab369501033f7:0xd331779b8a4bbec6

There is much more to go get, there has to be 50+ class A and C motorhomes out there, lots of awesome stuff, an old "hawk" class A MH out there has like a straight 6 with a garrett on top of it with a stick iirc, uber cool, couple eyebrow winnies, bus conversions, an airstream trailer, all sorts, too many to see in one day but mostly all old 70's and 80's rigs. Didn't see a single HR iirc though strange..

I'm giving the JY a good running neon I have as trading stock so I can have basically anything I want off of any of there RV's plus my subie parts, you can only see/get so much in one day though, maybe I'll pop a pic of the place sometime, it's amazing..

fasteddie313 · September 26, 2015, 10:37 PM

I finish installed my new kitchen sink all nice like today.. The faucet leaked so I had to go through that..

I never had a faucet on my kitchen water lines so this is the first time I've ran the water system.. Good news is the pump works well and that some things don't leak like the fresh water tank, and my new kitchen sink and its associated plumbing and hardware don't leak..

The tank overflow/vent hose sprays inside the exterior wall, 2 Tees for the shower faucet leak, the shower faucet leaks from the hot knob and around the shower hose hookup as well, the bathroom sink faucet leaks around one handle when it's on, the bathroom sink also has a crack in the bowl that leaks, the connection to the back of the toilet leaks and won't budge to tighten so I have to take the toilet off, and the grey water tank drips from its bottom and it seems to be coming from the bottom of the tank itself..

So that sucks, and one of the 2 electric motors for the steps froze up after working fine for a few days..

jeno · September 27, 2015, 09:31 AM

More pictures

M & J · September 27, 2015, 10:36 AM

:)rotflmao

fasteddie313 · September 27, 2015, 11:14 AM

Quote from: jeno on September 27, 2015, 09:31 AM
More pictures

OK, I'll go snap some pics and post but I'm warning you it looks like a war zone in there. It's me VS 34 years of wear, tear, leaks, and degradation..

jeno · September 27, 2015, 11:31 AM

So what you're saying is that your no different than the rest of us

fasteddie313 · September 27, 2015, 12:40 PM

Caulked the crap out of my "custom" windows and all sorts of other stuff..

Sealed up roof..

Floor prepped for replacement board..

New pink co-pilot's chair..

New kitchen sink.. It's a bit bigger so I ghetto'd the corner, it is beautifull stainless with a moen faucet and real nice stainless screw in drain baskets.. Out of an old Travco..

Need to trim the putty under it again, it squished out more again for some reason..

Thinking about putting this oval stainless bathroom sink out of a pace arrow there behind the kitchen sink, did I mention that I like to do strange and unique things?

Bathroom floor prepped for new board..

Made a cardboard template for it..

Mess..

Got the grill on, need one new latch though..

Outside mess..

M & J · September 27, 2015, 04:56 PM

circleD · September 27, 2015, 06:00 PM

You are making g some great progress. Good job. One thing that I found out is that the cheap counter tops don't like water leaks from the faucet. It swelled up in spots. After I replumbed the faucet I secured the water lines so they wouldn't move around and leak again. Just FYI.

ClydesdaleKevin · September 27, 2015, 07:25 PM

Looking good bro! I have to replace a section of kitchen floor eventually, under the dinette. Seeing your pics makes it look more hopeful...lol!

Kev

fasteddie313 · October 05, 2015, 12:37 PM

Well a lot of things have come up so I haven't been able to get much of anything done lately.. My stepdad just died and I had to help my cousin/neighbor move and take care of my mom etc. so I've been busy busy..

Just figured I'd check in so you all don't think I abandoned my project already, I do believe I have officially stopped any and all leaks now though

ClydesdaleKevin · October 05, 2015, 07:07 PM

My condolences on the loss of your step dad, bro.

Kev

Rickf1985 · October 05, 2015, 07:10 PM

Eddie, It has only been a week and a half. Hell, Kevin disappears for 6 months and we don't give up on him. Take care of family, both the RV and we will be here when you are ready.

fasteddie313 · October 08, 2015, 02:53 PM

OK so I lied about the leaks, however unintentionally.. This is crazy, check it out..

It is coming right out of the end of the wire, no not running down the wire, right through the middle of the wire, only its end is wet, the wire is hot..

The wire goes up the side of that window to infinity and beyond, I have no idea where it goes, maybe to the front AC?

I don't really know what to do, I do not want to tear out more wall/ceiling to try to chase the darn wire..

I guess I can start at the breaker box and see what breaker shuts this wire off, then what else that shuts off, and try to isolate its circuit.. Then what? Start taking things apart on that circuit to try to find the source of the water I guess..

And this custom window is still leaking right there on the bottom maybe like an inch or 2 up the right side despite my efforts with the caulk.. Maybe I'll strip the caulk off and try it again, or maybe I should completely pull and reseal the window..

Do you have any idea what exact point of entry would lead to water coming through this area of the window frame? It seems to be on the outside of the window frame the opposite side of the glass..

My windshield seems to also have a miniscule leak right in the center where the 2 sides come together in the middle.. Very tiny leak..

Yes it has been raining/drizzling for a while now..

TerryH · October 08, 2015, 08:16 PM

re your window leak:
Most likely ingress is between coach wall and frame flange, not glass to frame. Ingress point can be a long way from the egress point.
Easiest way to locate ingress point is with a properly done water test with waterfall conditions. If you do this turn your hose on very low, without a nozzle. Your intention is to mimic rain, not blast everything at high pressure.
You will have to have someone on the inside watching. If it leaks it will likely start slow and speed up quickly as the water overcomes friction.
I would start with the wall to flange. When doing the wall area try to avoid getting water on the glass - that comes later.
Start with the frame joint at the bottom centre. If nothing, go to the bottom of the curve on one side for a minute or so, then move up two or three inches at a time until you reach the mid point of the top curve, couple of minutes for each shift. Try to avoid getting water on the glass. Then same procedure opposite side. Don't do the top if no leak yet.
If no leak, use the same method at the glass to rubber seal. For this, start at the centre of the bottom, up one side to the start of the upper curve, then same thing opposite. If no leak do the upper curves and top. Important thing with the top is to avoid getting water on the top frame flange to wall joint - you haven't tested that yet.
If no leak now do the top frame to flange.
I've had great success using this method in various applications.
Terry