Do I need to replace my Brake master cylinder and booster?

[MSN Member]

From: drummerboy  (Original Message)
Sent: 5/19/2004 8:00 AM

Hello again all! Last year I had major problems with my brakes. Thanks to all who offered suggestions, especially you denison! We just pulled the master cylinder and brake booster. There is only 1 booster connected directly to the master cylinder. The cylinder seems to have good vaccuum to it, and only a small amout of liquid came out of it. The master cylinder had some thick brown goop around the shaft. We're definately going to replace the master cylinder, but do you think the booster needs replaced too? It's probably the best plan while it's all apart. Does anyone have the part numbers for the master cylinder and booster? The Dodge chassis tag says M30 and my baby's a 72 Indian. Any info is greatly appreciated.



From: Sea Hag
Sent: 5/19/2004 10:13 AM

If it's a 1972 chassis  ( the fifth digit of you dodge vin should be a 2  )  the dodge part number for the master cylinder is # 3549 832 and the booster is 3633 549 ( bendix # 2510 090 ) . Napa Listed the master cylinder as Part # TSM 101405 for a rebuild  with exchange about $35.00. If you go to Napa Online web site , you can put the dodge numbers in and some cross others don't cross corectly . You can also select year then dodge truck - then M3 1 ton - it will come up with a menu for that vehicle - I found the booster there about $125.00 . I would take the old parts with you to make sure , I would start with the master cyclender and go from there . Not really trying to advertise for NAPA but it's a good online parts cross source . The recently opened a new store locally and they have more parts availibility for theses chassis than I thought - Picking up a carrier / center bearing for my drive shaft today - Sea Hag 



From: denison
Sent: 5/19/2004 11:06 AM

The main argument for replacing the booster is that is is 32 years old. There is a thin rubber diaphram inside it which needs to be air-tight; and the booster chambers could also have a fair amount of dirt, crud and corrosion built up inside.
The same argument for replacing the brake hoses on the front axle, and from the frame to the rear axle. If one of these things fails on the road, the parts probably wont be easy to find. And if you were --lucky-- an underway brake failure would be just a massive inconvenience.
And while you are lying under the RV, you probably should do a visual inspection of every inch of the metal brake lines, looking for substantial rust and abraded locations. I put a drop of oil on each of the brake line joints and connections - to retard rust toward the day I will want to take the joint apart. 



From: drummerboy
Sent: 5/19/2004 11:07 AM

Thanks Sea Hag. I searched for a while on NAPA online this morning and got the same results. The biggest problem is...they said there isn't a booster like that in the USA. I'm going to search for the Bendix # you provided. They have the MC in stock and it should be here tomorrow.
Thanks again!
p.s. We're supposed to leave next Thursday, so I'm really sweating bullets!



From: drummerboy
Sent: 5/19/2004 11:10 AM

Thanks Denison! I was replying to Sea Hag when you responded. We were going to replace the hoses as you suggested. They're getting pretty rusted.
Thanks for all your postings and the whole community for all this help!



From: Sea Hag
Sent: 5/20/2004 12:01 PM

The master cylinder is a good step forward - Denison is much more familar with the 72 chassis than I am and I agree that the brakes are a priority . and he might have a sorce for the booster .or rebuild parts . if it turns out to be bad  . If you can't find anything there is a large bendix dealer and re builder  in towards chicago called  All brake  and Clutch . that delivers to most of the truck shops and dealers around here - email me if you don't have any luck and I will inquire with them .  - Sea Hag 



From: drummerboy
Sent: 5/25/2004 9:56 PM

Well, my kid's 'college fund' is back on the raod again!  Thanks to all who responded!  For those of you keeping score, here goes.  We started by replacing the master cylinder since it was leaking at the fittings.  While we were in there, we replaced the lines to the front brakes, too.  When we were ready for the test drive, the starter began sticking.  It got replaced, too.  While we were installing the new starter, the fuel line got bent.  You guessed it, it broke.  Add a new fuel line to the mix.  Okay, ready for the test drive.  On the road it stopped great, really great, but wouldn't go over 30 mph.  Back to the garage.  After about 2 hours of checking vacuum, pressure, and metering just about everything, we ordered a new fuel pump.  After the new fuel pump we managed about 50 mph on the highway.  This is a 413 and we know to expect much more.  We decided to try to adjust the carb.  The Chilton 69-74 Winnebago book was priceless this weekend.  I highly recommend trying to get one on ebay.  We replaced the gaskets and o-rings, and off to the highway again.  Let's just say that this 72 Indian ran and stopped better that a new one!  Thanks again to denison and seahag for all your wisdom and ideas.  If you're ever in Brookville PA, dinner's on me!  Thanks to all who manage this site and to all those who contribute too!   



From: 78bago
Sent: 5/28/2004 6:52 AM

Drummerboy, I was born and raised in Brookville, Pa,, Grad, In 1969 < left there in 1986, I may know you