Roof Sagging over cab

Started by davidwhitaker, September 24, 2015, 11:11 AM

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davidwhitaker

Ok, How do you repair the sagging roof over the cab? 79 Brave. I removed the rotted ceiling panel and can see they used an angle iron across the front and metal panels that bridge across to the metal frame behind cab. The metal panels are bowed down and the roof holds a lot of water above. I can use a jack and lift the whole ceiling and have a few ideas on how to repair, but maybe somebody knows a better way? ???

JessEm

I like the idea with a jack.  ... But, realistically, the wet, damaged plywood probably needs to come out.

One possible quick fix is to mount a steel tube at the top of each wall and run it across the ceiling, through the middle of the sag. The trick is finding a way to mount the tube to the wall. They make gusset plates, or hangers for this. You could also have something fabbed if needed... Older Bago MH's than yours came this way, with a 1"x2" steel tube across the ceiling, just behind the front seats. The tube was oriented vertically the tall way so it doesn't flex, like a floor joist in a house. It was inserted inside a hard plastic cover for aesthetics before it was mounted, but you could always paint it.

However you approach it, one thing to bear in mind is that waterlogged plywood triples or quadruples in weight.

M & J

M & J

davidwhitaker

I did not not wait for your response. BUT that is exactly what I did. I used 1x1 thick steel across the middle and the front. I used metal brackets at the ends to hold them up. It Lifted the roof completely straight. Then I put up 1/2" plywood for the ceiling  - screwed across the front / middle and back. I think its going to work great.

Rickf1985

That is a lot of high up weight, raises your center of gravity  and I am sure you are going to notice it going around corners. Have the leaks I see up there already been taken care of? I would have used aluminum "I" extruded beam up there, Just as strong and a tenth of the weight. Extra plus is it will not rust.

ClydesdaleKevin

Quote from: Rickf1985 on September 24, 2015, 07:19 PM
That is a lot of high up weight, raises your center of gravity  and I am sure you are going to notice it going around corners. Have the leaks I see up there already been taken care of? I would have used aluminum "I" extruded beam up there, Just as strong and a tenth of the weight. Extra plus is it will not rust.

I would have use beryllium myself, since it is lighter than air...added some ballast to the tanks, and perhaps a keel to keep her level...lol!  Just messing with you Rick! 

Looks like you did a darn fine job David!  I tried something similar with oak beams in my first RV, and it didn't work out.  But it should work out just fine with the steel you elected to use.

Kev
Kev and Patti, the furry kids, our 1981 Ford F-100 Custom tow vehicle, and our 1995 Itasca Suncruiser Diesel Pusher.

Froggy1936

The repair I made to my Mini Winnie is in the Coach section 2 Sheets of 1/2 in Plywood  You can put chairs up there now or hold a dance ! Frank  W%
"The Journey is the REWARD !"
Member of 15 years. We will always remember you, Frank.

M & J

You're right Rick. Everybody messes with you....  :laugh:
M & J

Rickf1985

Quote from: ClydesdaleKevin on September 24, 2015, 07:22 PM
I would have use beryllium myself, since it is lighter than air...added some ballast to the tanks, and perhaps a keel to keep her level...lol!  Just messing with you Rick! 

Looks like you did a darn fine job David!  I tried something similar with oak beams in my first RV, and it didn't work out.  But it should work out just fine with the steel you elected to use.

Kev

Yea, but you can buy the aluminum at Wal-Mart. W% ;)

JessEm

Damn fine job, especially on the plywood. And if you blindly tore into it after your first post, and now it's already almost buttoned up, that's impressive.