My progress with engine bay declutter project

[JerryP]

Some of my progress, still a lot to do

[jeno]

Looks great, a lot nicer

[circleD]

That's what I'm talking about! If everyone would clean up the engine mess and put on some new hoses and lines. Not to mention learn where and what they do. So many issues would be eliminated. Looking good.

[M & J]

 

[JerryP]

That's what I'm talking about! If everyone would clean up the engine mess and put on some new hoses and lines. Not to mention learn where and what they do. So many issues would be eliminated. Looking good.

A great way to learn what is needed, and what is not, is to go talk to some hotrod guys.
Those engines, and the guys who build them know what needs to stay, and what needs to go.
Saturday, I went to a Hotrod meet, and spoke with a few guys, about what to remove, what to keep, and where to plug it in at.
A really big question in my mind was where to plug in the vacuum line from the Distributor.
I checked with a couple of guys, and looked at a lot of engines, and they were all plugged into the same place, the ported vacuum on the carb.
That port is located in front of the carb, nearest the throttle linkage.
They all said that plugging it in to the full time vacuum would cause the engine to "fall on its face" when you get on it.
I saw something on a thread I saw Friday, about somebody who was commenting on a lack of acceleration, and I suspect this was his problem.


I have not removed the EGR and vapor cans yet, only the old tubing, as I have not decided if I want them to stay, and need to research what to do with a hose from there that appears to go back to the fuel tank


While it is not my intention, or goal to have a setup this pretty, It is what I want without the pretty stuff. Nice neat, and nothing in there that does not need to be there.
I am keeping the stock air filter with the snorkel, and I think it is well designed setup to bring cool fresh air into the carb.

[Rickf1985]

Plugging in to ported vacuum is fine IF the distributor is set up for that. Ported vacuum will give you less timing advance at cruise and more at full throttle. That is why the hot rod guys have it that way. That plus that is how it was done years ago and old habits are hard to change. These distributors are set up for manifold vacuum but they are also designed to be control;led by the the TVS which works off of the water temperature. Performance Distributors will set up a distributor to run perfect in your vehicle from what I am told. I have not contacted them yet but I will be doing so.

[JerryP]

Put new spark plugs wires on the Chieftain today.
Got the Air pump ports all welded up on the exhaust manifolds.
That job sucked, would have been easier, and better looking if I had taken the manifolds off first.
The fittings were rusted, and not removable, the stainless looking pipes broke off while was removing them.
Had to change my welders power source to half a 220v line, and cut a 120v cord into it to get the power I needed to get a good weld.
If I ever have the manifolds off, I am going to redo the welds.
With all the vac lines and such gone, it is started to look a lot better, and seems smoother.


Overall, it is looking good in there.
I need to take the remaining air pump out, even though it is disconnected, and no more than a pulley wheel
I will look at past topics, and posts to see about the new belts.
The ac compressor is on that belt, so I have waited until last to do that project

[Rickf1985]

What you need is a 220 welder. A 110 welder is good for bodywork, barely. I had a list of the belts but I cannot find it, I need the main belt number so I can eliminate the lower pump on the other rig I bought. The pump is frozen and I don't want to burn the belt off so I will just use the shorter belt I have on my Winnebago and bypass that pump. That way I still have the alternator.

[JerryP]

What you need is a 220 welder. A 110 welder is good for bodywork, barely. I had a list of the belts but I cannot find it, I need the main belt number so I can eliminate the lower pump on the other rig I bought. The pump is frozen and I don't want to burn the belt off so I will just use the shorter belt I have on my Winnebago and bypass that pump. That way I still have the alternator.

I have a nice 110V welder, having to use an extension cord killed the clean power to it.
Been meaning to branch off the 220 line anyway, which is a dedicated line of heavy 440v cable with 50 foot of extra cable.
That made the Hobart do a fine job.
Good quality 110v welders like the Hobarts, and Millers can do good work, well past just bodywork, and will weld 3/8" steel easily, if set up properly, with a tank of the right gas.
Looking at a Miller 211, 220v/110v welder, and they have a 200.00 rebate, and a 200.00 rebate on accessories which means I can get a spool gun cheap for aluminum.

[HandyDan]

What did you use to clean the engine with?

[LJ-TJ]

 D:oH! Where's the pictures! We like pictures. N:(

[gadgetman]

one of the best and the cheapest and safe engine cleaner is Awesome. Sold at most dollar stores. I use it at the shop all the time. I can spray a engine and wash it off with a garden hose sprayer. The stuff works great and its 1.00 a 16 oz bottle

[joanfenn]

Yes I tried that "awesome" on a grill this year.  Worked great on that too.  Cant beat that price.