Front /Drum Brake adjustment

[Arberg0]

From: Movinyou1 (Original Message) Sent: 3/2/2005 11:52 PM

I have a 70 Winnie on a M-300 chassis. The front axle has a stabilization system that is welded to the backing plates over the adjustment holes. Anybody have a clue how to get to the adjusters or are they self adjusting and I just need to back up a few miles?



From: Slantsixness Sent: 3/3/2005 9:43 AM
Sounds like you will have to remove the drum to adjust the brakes, although maybe the stabilizer bracket can be moved?

Backing up never really works, plus who wants to back up for a mile of starts and stops?!
You can, however, jack it up, spin the wheel counterclockwise, and have somebody apply and release the brakes but it will take forever. note that if you just hear a click when you do this, the adjusters could just be stuck, too!

Under "normal" use, the adjusters never function properly anyway. How about cutting or drilling an acces hole in the stabiliaer brackets? Convert over to disk brakes?!

Tom




From:DanD2soon Sent: 3/3/2005 11:04 AM
Leonard,

DON'T try to adjust the brakes before you do SOMETHING about the lack of adjuster access! The brake shoes often wear "into" these old drums leaving a substantial "lip" around the outside edge that will prevent you from getting the drum off the hub if the brakes are adjusted snuggly - And you have NO WAY to loosen them right now.

If you once get them snugged up, you won't be able to get the drums off without destroying them!

I believe I'd get the drums off first and find some way to drill new access holes thru those newly welded plates - maybe from the outside, In. If you can get the drums off and strip all the brake parts off the inside of the backing plate, you can probably use the original adjuster slots as a drilling guide. Once that's done you can proceed however you choose without having your hands tied.

Good luck,
DanD

 

From: denison Sent: 3/3/2005 12:28 PM

     DanD is right.  If you can get the drum off at this point, it would be a good idea to do it.  I like to look at my brakes internals every few years anyway.   If you can fight the drum off, you can clean up the threads in the self-adjuster screw, and ensure all the springs and the cable are in place.  On mine the adjusters seem to work fine, as I have never had to do a brake adjustment.  I had them apart when I bought it in 91, and cleaned up the self-adjusters, and did it again twice since then, the last time in 2003.   I expect they will work fine for at least 6 or 7 years more.  I dont expect them to work at all if they have been sitting unusued for 10 years, let alone 35 years.
     If your drums have a bothersome lip at the outer end of the cylindrical surface, and are still within the wear limit, you could take a hand grinding stone and carefully remove the rusty lip from the drum.     
   And I wonder why it needs the stabilization stuff.  My 72 on the M400 chassis doesnt have that - but I do keep my toe-in adjusted, my wheels in balance, my steering box adjusted, and all the zerk fittings well greased.
   Also the dodge motor home chassis service manual and the parts catalog both show the front axle brake backing plates, but DO NOT not show any stabilization system, and certainly not welded to the brake backing plate.   

 

From:Movinyou1 Sent: 3/3/2005 2:40 PM
I tempted to pull the drumms anyway. Evidently, the fronts have been off at one time because they are reversed-the lefty is on the right side. That stabilizer system is suppose to keep it from wanderin' in a strong cross wind and such. seen it advertised in some of the RV rags. At 67,000 miles, how bad can the brakes be anyway? Thanks for the ideas. They be a big help

   

From: Movinyou1 Sent: 3/10/2005 1:01 AM
Ok, haven't got the drums off yet. Is that 8 sided dust cap threaded or just a fancy knockoff type?




From: denison Sent: 3/10/2005 5:00 AM
Its threaded, a regular right hand thread on both left and right front hubs.


As to how bad can the brakes be at 67k miles.....If the wheel cylinders had a stuck piston (from rust forming inside because no one bled the brakes every year), you could have a worn out brake shoe or shoes. A shoe return-spring that broke from rust could have the same result. Not from high mileage, but from lack of maintenance, not being examined and cleaned each 7 to 10 years.

I think the drum and hub weighs almost 50 lbs by the way. 



From: denison Sent: 3/10/2005 6:10 AM
Those dust caps might be too snug/stiff to easily unscrew just with big pliers.  I checked in a couple of my usual truck parts places, but they didnt have the 8 sided hub wrench.  So... I used used a -punch- to drive it counter-clockwise a little, then my big pliers could unscrew it.   Actually it was a dull cold chisel that I used.
   
 


From: <NOBR>Movinyou1</NOBR> Sent: 3/10/2005 7:57 PM
To all that responded a BIG THANKS! I finally got goin' on the front brakes and besides a set of shoes, wheel cyclinder, a brake hose and of course new seals, everything looked pretty good for a 35 y.o. vehicle. Road test tomorrow, stay tuned!