Carpet recommendations?

[LJ-TJ]

Hey gang, when you replace the carpet in your rig does anyone have a suggestion on the best and easiest carpet to us? With rubber backing,with out backing. Which is the easiest type to us on the dog house. What glue you use to glue down the carpet on the dog house. How to glue it down on the dog house. Have you got any pictures. Hm?

[Oz]

Here's a few ideas on that:

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=633744496703898&set=a.542863865791962.1073741829.100002050613320&type=3&theater


I used a short napped, looped carpet for durability and ease of cleaning.

[smg id=838]

[LJ-TJ]

WOW! Now that's nice. Did it have the foam on the back or was it just plain? How'd you manage to rap the engine cowl? Where'd you get your carpet, an auto upholstery  shop?

[ClydesdaleKevin]

My only suggestion, since carpet choice is so subjective, is to spend the money on the underlayment padding once, and never have to do it again.  Don't get the padding made of foam that can absorb moisture, or the kind that looks like chunks of foam glued together, even if it does have a pet barrier membrane.  Spend the extra money on commercial grade closed cell rubber padding.  It is designed for hotels and high traffic applications, will not absorb moisture or odors at all, and because of the relatively small amount we need for our rigs, it really isn't much more expensive than the foam kind.  And it will last a few lifetimes, and several carpet changes, without having to ever replace it in the future.

Kev

[Oz]

I bought the carpet at Ollie's discount outlet.  I wanted to use insulated padding, but the price, given I was doing a rehab and gazillion upgrades, was out of the budget.  I used glue and heavy duty staples to do the doghouse.

[DRMousseau]

Carpet in an RV takes a BEATING!!! Whether it's jus seasonally during vacation time (maybe the worst!), or year around as a live-aboard. I jus don't feel that a typical "carpet job" is practical. And it seems every exposed area on the floor of an RV is subject to the worst of wear and tear.

I do agree with Kevin,... I'm always looking at various commercial and industrial installations. Especially the tough high-traffic and "dirty" applications. I've considered "hard" flooring, but lets face it,.... carpeting is quiet and comfortable! It softens noise inside and out, and is never too cold or too hot. But it has to be durable and easy to clean THOURGHLY!!! And the backing jus may be thee MOST important. Unlike the base of many commercial and industrial floors,... mine are NOT concrete!!! This means my choice of flooring and backing MUST be protective of the base floor too!!! It also has to be lightweight, IMO. Since it IS a rather small area,... I will consider the premium costs and necessary quality installation expenses to be more than worthwhile!!! And a good installation WILL be very costly.

And that doghouse??? Mine is immense and HEAVY! I'm considering a built-in flush mounted, folding handle of some sort to ease the awkwardness and weight of the blocky wooden beast!!! (although carpeting it should be easier than the rounded fiberglass cover that many contend with.)

[LJ-TJ]

Well all good points Mates. It looks like it's going to be carpet on the step.Carpet on the kick plate on the step up to the cockpit area and carpet from the back of the kitchen table were the closest is back to the bed. Pergola from the in the rest around the kitchen table,sink and stove. What I'm real curious about is picking the right material for the dog house. However DRMousseau brought up an interesting point. That is the design of the dog house. Can the design of the dog house be changed with out affecting the cooling/air circulation around the engine. Has anyone redesigned the dog house in their Classic Winnebago? Hm?   

[ClydesdaleKevin]

I can only imagine and speculate, but I would guess that if you made a new doghouse that fit securely that was square and easy to carpet, you would increase the airflow over the engine and the air space over the engine.  I can't see how it could harm a thing.

Kev

[ClydesdaleKevin]

And now that you mentioned it...I think that will be my next project when it comes time to recarpet the rig next year (we get about 2 years out of a carpet, no matter how much we spend on it, since we have 2 German Shepherds and live fulltime in this thing, mostly in primitive campgrounds with lots of mud and dirt).  I'm going to build a new doghouse cover that is totally squared off on the corners, just like our first RV, The Ark!  Brilliant!!!  I never would have though of this if you hadn't posted this post. 

Kev

[Oz]

However DRMousseau brought up an interesting point. That is the design of the dog house. Can the design of the dog house be changed with out affecting the cooling/air circulation around the engine. Has anyone redesigned the dog house in their Classic Winnebago? Hm?   

As you know, you can do anything the mind can imagine.  Not only can you make it squared off, you can make the circulation better if you make it wedge shaped, high in the front and low in the back.  This will increase the air space over the top of the engine and make it much easier to cover.  Or, you can just make the forward portion more square.  By doing so, you can have a drink/whatever holder right on top of it.

Just remember that you don't want to obstruct the ability to swivel your front seats in that direction. 

[JerryP]

I have been kicking ideas about changing the engine cover, also, to make it more useful as a table, or dog perch, depending who is riding on it.
considering using foam board, as an insulator

As everything about these RVs is just plain brute force, I doubt it would make any difference in the cooling of the engine compartment.
At the worst it could be the same,
There is nothing aero dynamic about these giant boxes smashing air down the road.

[Oz]

A 1970's eyebrow Winnie has very little clearance between the top of the motor and the underside of the doghouse and it gets really hot under there.  Any increase in that space will increase airflow over it and provide at least some measure of improvement in cooling.

[Rickf1985]

80's are no better, the air cleaner is right against the underside of the dogbox. The 80's ones, mine at least, is formed out of fiberglass and the sealing surface in on a curve so building a new one out of wood would entail making a new sealing surface.

[DRMousseau]

I did mention something about me needing heavy-duty lifting handles on mine, right?

I mean this one is HEAVY!!! Made of 1/2" ply, about 3'x3', lined with thin sheet aluminum on the engine side and carpeted on top,... it's a BEAST!!! Jus sliding it back is a pain!!! It sits on a heavy wood 2x4 frame attached to the floor with 5 locking latches and some unique details to ensure serviceability. HEAVY DUTY, but it IS quiet. No foam, padding or insulation, so it is clean, solid and tough.

I've been doing a bit of engine work lately, and since I live in this, I can't jus leave the doghouse off for a few days in the cold weather here. But every day I open it, I wonder where and how to mount some lift handles, or even a slide rail of some sort,... actually thought of a two piece hinged mod with Velcro attached carpet to cover it all. Since my trans dipstick is under this, and it IS the major engine access, I think the "hood" should be jus a bit easier to open for an ol' man!!! DANG!!!

Wish they made a "trap door" above the fuel tank,... I need access to the top of the tank and I'm not relishing the thought of dropping a 90gal tank!! I've often considered trap-doors in the floor of the D20. Jus small locking enclosed compartments like on the carpeted deck of small watercraft. Some secure and extra storage for valuables and such, where space below permits. Again, thick pile or shag carpeting jus wouldn't be my choice for such mods.