Questions About Wall Repair

[khantroll]

Hi all,


Some of you may know that I've been fighting with my 1972 Winnebago D24-CL. I bit off more then I thought in attempting a roof repair, and while that issue has been resolved I now need to deal with wall rot. My walls are strange compared to the posts I've seen on here, as well what's in the manual. It's metal skin, 1" high density foam, and then 1/8th luan. I'm not exaggerating; it looks like paneling. Up in the cab area, there is some thicker wood, but I haven't dug into that too much.


So, my questions are:


1.) Is it better to drop the sides, scrape the wood off, apply new wood, and then put it back together? Or should I try to do it from the inside to avoid possibly warping the panels?
2)  Does the foam need to be replaced? I have no idea saturated the foam may have gotten, but I am worried about a possibility of mold or similar.
3.) If so, is 1" high density foam like what is used in boat building? is it a continuous piece (looks like it)? Does it have to be?


Thanks in advance!

[1966]

      Im dealing with the exact problem with my 1966 TT . What I plan on doing is removing the paneling with my Dremel Multi-Max using the scraper attachment. Then use a good construction adhesive to glue whatever you are putting back up using braces from one wall to the other to hold pressure on the paneling until the adhesive dries .Let me know how it goes.

[bluebird]

I had some wall rot in my 95 Challenger with fiberglass out side. I peeled off the rotten wood and removed the insulation. Installed new foam insulation and new 1/8 luan. I used the glue recommended for the foam and clamped it using some 2x4s and wood clamps for 24 hours. If it's an area that you can't use clamps you will have to figure out away to keep pressure on the repair until the glue sets up.

[DRMousseau]

While the wall surface showed some signs of rot and damage, mostly near window framing, it wasn't until the ol' Winnebago fell over that the REAL damage was exposed. With the structure nearly ripped from the floors, the exposed wood framing of the walls was found to be in serious condition! Most notable, was the wood wall framing along the base.

I'm currently dealing with some minor ceiling issues in the bedroom that the PO had attempted repairs, and have learned a few matters of uniqueness in RV construction,... AND the differences of metal framing construction from that of wood. I'll be rebuilding the entire bedroom ceiling panel this coming year, to prevent the inevitable issues of those poor previous repairs.

The insulated wall construction isn't too much unlike that of double-paned insulated windows common in our homes. A water-proof, sealed barrier that provides insulated qualities. If not well sealed, condensation and moisture will occur between the inner surfaces and eventually collect along the bottom framing,... a nuisance to visibility thru windows, it will collect unseen in RV walls. Aluminum framed walls are often like the wood framed walls of our houses. Usually insulated with a loose batting, and interior walls attached to "stud-work". Moisture and condensation within the walls are accommodated for in unique manners to prevent rot, corrosion, and decay of the bottom sill or base. Fiberglass construction is the same as watercraft,... fully sealed framing, sometimes with fully sealed insulation or "floatation" to prevent condensation decay, saturation, and rot.

But look closely at the walls of your wood framed RV!!! The interior and exterior wall panels lack attachment of nails or screws over the entire surface. Interior joints are covered not with a "T" strip, but rather a unique trim often of "H" profile. The outer skin, insulation, framing supports, and interior panels are LAMINATED,... not jus glued with the "snakey drizzle" of adhesive!!! I find this amazing as the laminated construction not only provides strength, but a fully sealed inside and out, moisture-proof, rot-proof, insulated wall!!!

My first clues of ceiling problems, was the softness and give with a "crackling" sound when walking on the roof in that area. After dropping the nice interior ceiling panel, I found the typically glued insulation panels were broken loose from the skin, and the 1x2 ceiling supports were merely supported at the ends of the 8' span,... can't exactly nail or screw along it to attach to the roof!!! I will be using a roll-on or spray-on adhesive across the entire inner surface, where supporting wood and insulation will be "re-laminated" and completely sealed to the roof skin. This process will not only restore strength and integrity to the roof and ceiling, but will also seal against condensation and the pesky tiny pin-holes that often develop in the thin aluminum skin of the roofing,... at least until I resurface the rooftop. The same care will be given the interior surface,... fully re-laminated and sealed joints to prevent "in-wall" condensation from the inside of the coach. I sometimes sweat like a pig sleeping in the night,... and I'd rather it condense on the windows than inside the wall structure, where it WILL eventually cause mold, rot, and decay.

If you can't provide good air circulation within the wall surfaces,... then seal them completely in every way, to prevent any problems. Jus like ya would in boat building. Too much "moisture" in a boat can be a SERIOUS problem, LoL!

[khantroll]

Hi all,


I'm sorry I haven't been back by this post, but life has been a little hectic. I haven't had any time/good weather to tear into mine


1966, after looking at your pictures it seems like yours is pretty close to mine in design. Is the paneling/luan connected to anything, or does it rely on the beltline screws / the interior structure to hold the walls to the floor?


Bluebird, what type of foam did you use? The high density boat stuff that mine looks it is, or wall insulation?


Dr. M, you are absolutely right. In a perfect world, I'd have the space to yank the whole side off, lay it up with a foam safe epoxy, and then vacuum bag it. Hell, I wish I could have done that on the roof, rather then the Handier Man repair.


As to the base framing, I have a section along the rear that will need to be replaced. It's maybe 18 inches long, and it's right at the rear what the PO didn't seal the corner properly when it was removed for some reason.  The rest of it seems okay; time will tell.


I also found this youtube channel, which has some wall repair videos if any one is interested:


https://www.youtube.com/user/offgridwinnebago/videos


Thanks all, and have a Merry Christmas!