My rear bathroom sag issue.

[Thenoob]

Pics to follow soon.

I have a 73 d18.  The po previously let a bit of water damage go in the rear roof at the bathroom.  The roof is noticeably soft outside and inside in this area. 

Can someone talk to me about thermopanel replacement and getting at this issue?  Is the best plan of attack to remove the rear roof panel on the outside to get at this fix and see how much damage is done?

M scared to start ripping apart the bathroom ceiling ETc because because I  don't know the best way to do it (roof).  Everything fits tight and don't know what screws into where and so on and so on.

Basically the rear panel on the inside starts right before the bathroom door , and travels to the rear of the coach.  There's not wiggle room to take down that stapled in old board crap.  How do youngins remove them without having to remove partitions etc.

Lots o questions

[Froggy1936]

Look at my post in projects Repairing roof Anything is repairable (except a rotted frame) I used 1/2 in plywood doubled but you can use any material that will support 300 lbs ! Frank

[Thenoob]

I'm actually leaning towards doin a full replacement with wood, as made popular on this site.

Need to do a full thought out process with this one.  Why bother doing a small section, might as well do the whole thing right?

[LJ-TJ]

Well you know the old saying" if the job is worth doing. It's worth doing right." One thing for sure once it's done you'll know it's done right.

[Thenoob]

Those of you who have done the curved roof re-frame of your coach, how did you cut the curved frames?? I'm new to framing but think I have an idea but I most likely have no clue.

[Piraterik]

Preferably a BAND SAW, but you can make a Jig Saw work as well. It will just take longer to saw the radius.   Check out  The_Handier_Man, He Did a complete rebuild replacement.  Using a curved truss method. 

      Photos of Roof Repair & Replacement  « on: November 11, 2008, 08:32 PM

[Thenoob]

Yup he did a really slick job
I'm just curious how to cut the curves Into the 2x4.  I know how to cut them, but don't know how to measure the radius correctly

[DRMousseau]

I have this job coming up next year,... PROPERLY replacing the entire ceiling in the rear bedroom.

Been thinkin of those cross-members a lot!!! Most of the roof strength is in the ceiling laminate,.... that means having a solid full bond between roof, insulation, and ceiling panel. I might be lookin at a bit of overkill here,... but I'm considerin' the replacement of the cross-members with either equivalent sized aluminum box or I-beam,... or most likely,... multiple layers of laminated ply-wood, set vertically to the laminate.

The ply-wood idea would allow some shaping for a VERY slight crown, provide the continuous insulation of wood between foam sheets, with more strength and stability than an equivalent wood beam, and be easier to bond with the outer aluminum roof and inner ceiling panel. I figured I need jus a bit more than 8',... so multiple layers of 3/8" could be glued up with overlapping scarfs of shorter pieces, to get the length and thickness necessary. Doesn't have to look as pretty as marine work, because it's all in the ceiling,... but I feel it has to be as strong and as resistant to twisting, bending, warping as well as water, rot, and moisture. Yes,... likely painted with urethane or epoxy too.

Like I said,... overkill maybe,... but it should be as good or better than new!

[Froggy1936]

One important thing to remember WEIGHT ! Noy only adding to the gross but subtracting from the amt you can carry Also weight added up high is working against stability  ! Frank

[LJ-TJ]

I found this in my files. Might be a big help. Hm?

http://picasaweb.google.com/109641835469071142409/1973WinnebagoIndianRoofReplacement?gsessionid=cjjCq9K045oJhApGR0aSVQ

[Thenoob]

Yup ice looked through the entire catalog of pics a few times.

1.  How far up did you start the cutting of the 2x4's? 1"?  I'm looking at them how they are sitting on the sides and cannot tell.

2.  How did you draw out the curved radius? What tool/math did you use.

Those are my main questions.  Everything else is pretty self explanatory. 

Cheers!!

[Thenoob]

Also, when you laid the frp panels down are they screwed/glued to anything?? Or just free floating in there? Glued?

[Rickf1985]

That is exactly how I am going to do my slide in camper.

[DRMousseau]

Like Frank noted, I feel weight is a big issue to be concerned with, and jus can't be overlooked for strength and load capacity of the roof.

Each of these light-weight components and parts by themselves, haven't much supporting strength across an 8' span. The arched "rafters" are a HUGE improvement over the original straight pieces, adding only a VERY small amount of extra weight in proportion to the great advantages made by the design. Stand on one alone, and you'll surely find it stronger than the original straights,... provided care in wood grain is well considered (made of laminated plywood will add a bit more weight overall and MUCH more strength). Of course supported only at the ends, and some of us heavier ones standing on 'em, would certainly break it. A foam sheet, or even the FRP alone wouldn't be supporting enough by itself across such a span,... or even if loosely assembled together. Heck,... even screwed together isn't gonna improve "load' bearing much, due to flex and movement between the surfaces. You'd have to bolt THRU, from surface to surface, and rather closely spaced to keep it all together as "one piece" for max strength.

But laminated together,... not jus drizzled glued, but LAMINATED,... rolled out adhesive across the entire sheet surface, and the surfaces of all parts, assembled together in full contact, making it all ONE PIECE... is what's gonna give ya what your looking for. MAXIMUM load rating in a light weight construction! Firm and solid underfoot! No screws needed on ANY surface, (other than to secure outer edge to supporting base structure). With "H" channels joining interior panels for expansion, and something similar, to seal joints of outer skin panels if "sheets" are used instead of one seamless piece. A poor lamination will "separate" and cause weakness, sagging, unwanted air spaces, and a loss of load bearing strength. If your roof is loose, noisy underfoot, and gives when walking about up there,... then it's not as strong as one that's firm, silent, and FLEXES underfoot!!!! The surface materials, supports and foam insulation have to work together as one.

Aluminum framed RV are quite different,... and depend on a closer "GRID" structure of support welded together with the skin. Insulation is "loose", (foam or batting) and the interior surface is attached to the grid with spaced screws and "medallions". Again, it's firm, solid, and "flexes" underfoot,... unless some welds have broken, then they start getting REAL exciting!!!