Books on delamination?

jeno · March 02, 2016, 10:56 PM

Anyone know of any books or anything online that gives step by step instructions on repairing?

joanfenn · March 02, 2016, 11:02 PM

Did a search for delamination repair and there are lots of videos and what not on the internet.

Rickf1985 · March 03, 2016, 09:21 AM

I have done extensive searches and 90% of what I have found was for newer stuff where the delamination was due to poor glass mixing and not water entry problems. Some was water but not as bad as what we generally see. All of the repairs I have found involved pouring epoxy into the cavity and clamping the side up tight. Well, that will work good if everything inside of the panel is still in good shape, which on the Winnies it will not be. The Luann will be mulch and will have fallen down to a lower point creating a bulge down lower. I have never found anything that address that kind of stuff. I thought our "expert", RVSeller Mike was supposed to tell us about that. Guess that is not going to happen? I have not really had time to do anything with the one I am going to strip. I was hoping to sell enough stuff out of it to get my money back but that does not look like it is going to happen without selling the whole rig minus the ac units and generator. If I do that I will not have a test bed to do destructive testing on to get pictures to share for how to stuff.

jeno · March 03, 2016, 11:36 AM

Thanks Rick I'll keep looking I'll try online some more if I find anything good I'll let you guys know

mattyj858 · March 06, 2016, 11:28 AM

Rick what year and model are you stripping? Are you parting out?

Oz · March 06, 2016, 11:42 AM

That's off topic and best to contact the member directly through PM. However, you won't get a response until after the end of March.

bnlfan · June 12, 2016, 12:05 AM

I will have to do some research. But, I saw a video online where a man actually cut out the delaminated wall. Rebuilt the section and simply reattached it. When he was finished, you couldn't really tell it was ever done.

I will dig around tonight, well it 12:05 am, so this morning before I go to sleep. If I find it, I will post it in the morning after I wake up.

Thanks,
bnlfan

bnlfan · June 12, 2016, 12:20 AM

As much as I can remember, it was on another rv groups website.

The man basically marked the wall about a few inches out from were the delamination was. Then cut on this line, all the way through the wall. Then, picked up new luan (I think I spelled that right) and built the wall section all over again. He used the marine grade epoxy that comes as 2 separate components. Each has a pump head that you push down one full stroke each. This gives you the correct mixture.

I have also seen (on youtube) where you use the same westmarine westsystem. If the wall is still solid underneath, you drill small holes inches apart from the top of the effected area all the way to the bottom. Then using a syringe (like for basting a turkey) inject it into the top hole until it starts to appear at the hole beneath. Then go down a hole and repeat until you hit the bottom. Then cover the skin with plastic and, with the home close to a fixed structure, wedge a sheet of plywood between the plastic and the fixed structure.

I did this on my last rv but used a clamp to hold it because it was at the door for the power cord. I did it too tight and ended up with a fixed wall with a big dip in it.

What ever you do, FIND AND FIX THE LEAK FIRST.

There is also a product made that you can inject into the rotted wood and it solidifies the area. Not sure how that works.

Rickf1985 · June 15, 2016, 07:12 PM

Quote from: bnlfan on June 12, 2016, 12:20 AM

There is also a product made that you can inject into the rotted wood and it solidifies the area. Not sure how that works.

That is a product called CPES and is made by "The Rot Doctor" out in Washington State. I have used it and most of their other products and can tell you they are very good products. They are made from wood resins so the epoxy does not harden to glass like consistency, it remains flexible enough that it does not crack in cold weather. The people there are fantastic to deal with also and will answer any questions you have. The one problem is that unless they have changed the formula he products will melt the foam insulation so using it in the wall for delamination will not work.I have not had to use it in quite a while but i will be soon as I get into my slide in project. I will be asking them then if anything has changed. I have quite a bit of their product still here. The CPES has the consistency of diesel fuel so it soaks into rotted wood quite well. It is also very good at protecting new wood against any rot in the future. It will soak into the grain of the wood and keep water out.