Correct Parking Brake Parts on 86 P30?

[BrianB]

Have the parking brake on the end of the transmission on my 86 Chieftain.

Found this: http://store.stepvanparts.com/B-EMERGENCY-BRAKE-COMPONENTS-STEPVAN.HTM

But... does anyone have a part number / cross reference for the brake shoes if that is all I end up needing to replace? I read somewhere else that they are the same as used on a rear-drum brake car and can be matched up, but that source didn't give a part number.

I would hate to spend $85 instead of $25.

I'm thinking someone here might have replaced these before.  Hm?

[BrianB]

Looks like maybe GM Parts East has what I am looking for.

http://www.gmpartseast.com/Page_Product/PartList.aspx?MakeUrl=chevy&CatalogUrl=1986-p30&ComponentCode=TP04089501&SectionCode=04&EngineCode=LE8&TransmissionCode=M40&ModelCode=&Vin=&ProductionDate=&VehicleInfo=&CatalogCode=52P&Year=

[MotorPro]

Considering they are only used when nothing is moving I do not think you could wear them out in 1,000,000 miles

[BrianB]

Considering they are only used when nothing is moving I do not think you could wear them out in 1,000,000 miles

Probably not, and the unit has 27K original miles on it. But.... they are 30 years old and I would worry about the reliability of the material on the shoes. I am working on totally refurbishing the undercarriage in prep for a 10K mile round trip this summer. I have the driveshaft out for new U-joints so now is the time to fix this (the cable is frozen so I have to take this apart anyway).


I would rather spend 20~30 dollars now than have it break along the way.

[circleD]

A word from the wise and cheap. If you park on a steep hill do you want to worry about the material its made of not being good? Some materials will stay wet and not hold while others will perform better. Since you'll be in there, are you going to replace the springs or rebuild it?
I've refurbished most of my undercarriage and its worth the extra time and money.

[MotorPro]

These were not made in 1930's. The material these are made of will still be there long after the frame rots away.

[bluebird]

 I've seen many brake pads where the glue has let go. Mater of fact I just removed a set on the rear of my coach and it's a 98 with 77,000 miles.


The front pads on my Itasca came apart too after it sat for 5 years before I bought it. It even locked up the front wheel on my gravel drive.


Might as well change them if you're going to be there anyways. They can't cost that much.

[SLEETH]

I concur= the glue goes bad and the lining falls off

[87Itasca]

I've yet to use the parking brake on my '87. No idea when it was last used, and I would expect it to lock up, then I'm stuck somewhere.

[circleD]

Part of the inspection here in NC is that the parking brake has to hold the vehicle still in Drive while idling. But no one in forces it.
I see the parking brake as extra safety insurance. I live in a slightly hilly area and don't ever plan to go to the bigger mountains but if I do I'm ready.

[BrianB]

I've yet to use the parking brake on my '87. No idea when it was last used, and I would expect it to lock up, then I'm stuck somewhere.

Every vehicle registered in New York State has to pass an annual safety & emissions inspection. One of these items is that the emergency/parking brake is operative. And the shops do check it.


Like I said, I'm down there with stuff apart anyway - now is the time to do it, and if I'm going to do it, do it correctly. The tranny rear seal is leaking, and I'm also replacing all the brake and fuel lines front to back as well. The brake lines were leaking through rust, and the fuel lines aren't that far behind.

[Hahn007]

Wow thanks for the step van parts link in the beginning.  I have been trying to find the parking brake cable for quite some time now......

[BrianB]

I got the parking brake apart tonight. You have to love those Winnebago assembly guys - they put a wire loom "cross member" straight in the way of removing that brake drum. Fortunately it was made from flat stock and a large screwdriver was able to pry it up out of the way, though it was hard to do that and remove the drum with just two hands.

When I got in there, everything actually looked in really good condition, so I am thinking of forgoing replacing the shoes and just clean everything up and put it back together (with a new seal though). I will deglaze the drum by hand lightly with some sandpaper.

I do have to replace the frozen cable.

For future reference, the shoes are 11x2 and fit a 1976-1986 C10 2WD pickup. Duralast 449, Wagner PAB449R, Wearever S449. Same for the hardware kit. Transmission rear seal is National 9449 2457. This is true at least for a 1986 Chieftain 31.

Edit: Updated to correct seal number.  2016-03-20/22:54EDT

[legomybago]

Well at least now you know what you've got.....