Old Water Heater, Repair or Replace?

[87Itasca]

Hi all,

I'm faced with a bit of a dilemma here regarding my water heater. My control board tests bad, and about $110-130 to replace. My ignitor is also broken (my own fault) now. I'd be looking around $150-160 to replace these two parts. I can get a new Atwood 6 gallon water heater for about $377 shipped here:

http://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/cfp/water-heater/water-heaters-atwood-6-gallon/80-1350.htm?utm_source=google&utm_medium=partsshopping&utm_campaign=partsfeed&jt=1&jap=1o1&js=1&jsid=36859&jcpid=8a8ae4cd538c946a0153c7ea6a9350c4&jkId=gcp:se_36859:pp_55181541384:ag_23830571664:cp_366212064:n_g:d_c:cr_92241712464&gclid=CjwKEAjwi9K4BRCQzq7d1c6A_XASJABueAO2bVYfFuovuz53Xb2aC584AjpxZ_sWxrWcqarfx6cDCxoCQ1Xw_wcB

Being that my unit is 28 years old, and looks fairly crusty inside the service door, would I likely be better off just biting the bullet and replacing the entire unit? Or do the tanks on these tend to last a good long time?

What do you guys think?  I'm on the fence about this.

[M & J]

I vote replace.

[legomybago]

I'd buy the new tank. Plus you can add an electric element to the new tank (if you don't already have that option). If you use RV parks, electric HW heater is great. My 2 cents

[LJ-TJ]

Join the rest of us and suck it up. D:oH! Buy the new one. Really if you can see your way clear to buy the new one get it. It will save you a lot of grief in the long run.

[beaverman]

waiting for mine to go out, when it does I'm looking at an on demand propane because we plan to spend more time off grid, yea it's a couple hundy more but I could spend that in propane in 2 years off grid!

[beaverman]

Might as well replace it! I'm waiting for mine to go out, when it does I'm looking at an on demand propane because we plan to spend more time off grid, yea it's a couple hundy more but I could spend that in propane in 2 years off grid!

[Froggy1936]

I concur Replace & add a Hot rod elec heater (I have not used propane for hot water since I installed mine 5 yrs ago ) Also save the old aluminum tank , They are in demand for those who  forget or do not completely drain theres come freezing weather !Frank

[brians1969]

If you can swing it,  I vote replace too. 

[RANGERRICK]

Check and make sure your warranty is not voided if you add an after market heating rod.

[TerryH]

I agree with replacement of the unit. Caveat is, consider how and where you will be using your MH.
If generally plugged into shore power the heating rod addition may be best.
If generally off grid look into the on demand systems. They are more costly and may require a learning curve to dial into your usage, but once done may be what fits your needs.
Lots of info out there on both options.

[joanfenn]

NEW WATER HEATER

[87Itasca]

Alright everyone, thank you for chiming in. Bit the bullet about bought a new one with a 110V/LP setup.

When removing the old one, what kind of sealant should I use around where it screws into the exterior wall on the motorhome? I have some clear caulking I've used around the windows and such, would that do?

Hopefully the wiring will be straightforward, we will see.

As far as the power cord for the 110, is that plugged into the coach, or routed to the exterior to plug into wherever it's hooked up? Only have a 30A service, so every watt counts here.

I just discovered my RV is set up with coolant  lines that run from the engine e to a heater box, from the heater box the my original water heater, back to the engine. Neat! Looks like I will lose that functionality once I replace the water heater, but a Pass-through fitting, or really routing the hoses should be easy enough.

[HamRad Mobile]

Good morning, 87 Itasca; 

     If you have the engine coolant lines already installed from the engine back to the old hot water heater, you might also consider keeping the same system in use.  There is some merit to the engine coolant heat exchanger type system, also known as the "Motor Aid" water heating system. 

     In addition to heating the hot water, the "Motor Aid" system also does provide some slight additional cooling capacity for the engine in hot weather.   

     For that I suggest the Atwood GCH6A-10E (Atwood number 96163).  It is a direct replacement 6 gallon "three-way-fired" hot water heater that uses propane LP gas, 120 VAC electricity, or engine coolant to warm the water in the tank.  That gives you the option to use any power source available to heat your water in the tank, including the possibility of adding an external solar hot water heating system for the minimum operating cost for making hot water. 

     Consider this possible alternative path, especially if you can return the two way fired hot water heater you have on the way now. 

          Enjoy; 

          Ralph 
          Latté Land, Washington 

[87Itasca]

Unfortunately, I bought my unit from an individual online, vs. a business. It's a open-box unit, but all is still there, and it was about $150 cheaper than one from Campingworld or similar.

I don't know how much capacity is inside the hot water heater (or if it just passes through in and out), but if I leave everything hooked up with an aluminum pipe in place of the inlet/outlet, I don't think I would lose too much capacity.

[Rickf1985]

As far as the original heater lines just plug them. Or cut the "T" out and put a straight through fitting on. If you take a pair of vice grips and squeeze te hose JUST ENOUGH to close it off on either side of the fitting where you are working you will not get antifreeze all over. Do not over tighten the grips, just enough to close off the hose, not mash it flat. that way you will not damage the hose.

[DaveVA78Chieftain]

Post the Brand and model number off the decal.  The number is coded so you can determine what it is.