Wouldn't start, had to be towed home

[Aaarrghh]

Stopped for breakfast Sunday morning at McDonald's. When it was time to leave, the motor started normally. Put it in drive, rolled a couple feet, and the motor stopped. Turned the key to the start position, and got no response. After wiggling the key for a few minutes, I started wiggling wires behind the ignition switch, and cleaning any contact I could get at easily. After about 2 hours of doing the easy stuff, I gave up and called AAA. They couldn't find a suitable tow truck on Sunday, had to wait for Monday morning. By the way McDonalds management was understanding about my RV being there overnight. Thankfully I was just 10 miles from home, so my wife came for me.

Now my baby is back home safe. Now what the heck can I do? My first suspect is the neutral safety switch, because that gets used every time I move the shift lever. Any other ideas? I can't find a starter solenoid. Is it built into the starter? On old cars that was often what went bad.

Well, tomorrow I guess I'll start taking things apart to get a look at wires & stuff. Bummer! Just when my fridg cooling unit is due to arrive, and I was eager to work on that. Now this, instead. Aaarrghh.

[jeno]

The starter solenoid is on the starter I would start there..

[MotorPro]

Yes the solenoid is on the starter. Jumping from the large center terminal to the small terminal closest to the block should turn the starter. The question is why did it shut off to begin with. A starter problem wouldn't cause it to shut off.

[jeno]

Quite a few times on chevys I've had corroded ends or even broken wires. Even just something as simple as a corrosion on the battery cables. Corroded ends and broken wires were at the starter most of the time.

[DaveVA78Chieftain]

Become a full member for $5: http://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/index.php?action=store;cat=59

Download 1983 GM P30 Wiring diagram from Members Area.

Isolate problem by working through wiring diagram (pdf page 25),
Battery -> starter solenoid -> fusible link -> Junction Block -> fusible link -> Bulkhead plug -> Ignition switch -> bulkhead plug -> starter solenoid.

There really is no other way to isolate the issue.

[Rickf1985]

A voltmeter and or a test light are your best friends here. You need to find where you have power and where you don't. And the wiring diagrams will tell you where it should and should not be. If you have been getting by all this time by wiggling wires every time it died then you have a LOT of wiring issues to sort through.

[Aaarrghh]

Yes the solenoid is on the starter. Jumping from the large center terminal to the small terminal closest to the block should turn the starter. The question is why did it shut off to begin with. A starter problem wouldn't cause it to shut off.

The starter is relatively easy to get at, so I'll see if I even have power to it. Shutting down like that makes me think there was a loss of power to the ignition somehow. I'm thinking the ignition switch is common to both starting and ignition. I'll have to pull the instrument panel to get behind that. Anyway I upped my membership level and have the wiring diagram, so will be studying that first. Easy things first!

Thank Y'all for your suggestions. They help me know where to start.

[beaverman]

The symptoms that you stated remind me of a fusible link frying, same thing happened to me twice in the past on a 68 camaro and my ex's pinto

[Jonbbrew]

Become a full member for $5: http://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/index.php?action=store;cat=59

Download 1983 GM P30 Wiring diagram from Members Area.

Isolate problem by working through wiring diagram (pdf page 25),
Battery -> starter solenoid -> fusible link -> Junction Block -> fusible link -> Bulkhead plug -> Ignition switch -> bulkhead plug -> starter solenoid.

There really is no other way to isolate the issue.

Worth every penny! FOR LIFE!

[Aaarrghh]

Become a full member for $5: http://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/index.php?action=store;cat=59

Download 1983 GM P30 Wiring diagram from Members Area.

Isolate problem by working through wiring diagram (pdf page 25),
Battery -> starter solenoid -> fusible link -> Junction Block -> fusible link -> Bulkhead plug -> Ignition switch -> bulkhead plug -> starter solenoid.

There really is no other way to isolate the issue.

Hi, I upgraded on the 16th, but when I click your link I just get a page asking me to upgrade! I really want to see what you were looking at. I have a service manual that I found by Google, but it doesn't show fusible links. Aaarrghh!

[Aaarrghh]

The symptoms that you stated remind me of a fusible link frying, same thing happened to me twice in the past on a 68 camaro and my ex's pinto

What does a fusible link look like? If the rain holds off this morning, I'm going to crawl under and look around.

>>OK, answered my own question https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qRMSvFO7org

[Rickf1985]

You need to check your messages for a password to get into the manual section and then go there. It take Oz a couple days to get to it sometimes since he has a day job.

[Aaarrghh]

You need to check your messages for a password to get into the manual section and then go there. It take Oz a couple days to get to it sometimes since he has a day job.

I see - that link isn't for a diagram, it's actually a link to the upgrade page. I have the ID/pw to get into the manuals section, but the closest I come is to an '84 P30. Mine is an '83 P20, but the '84 P30 diagram may be helpful.

By the way I did a little testing with a light, and found that I have voltage from the starter up to the firewall, so I guess the next step is to remove the instrument panel to get at the wires behind there. Not something I relish doing. The connections at the starter are hard to get at, also. I was leery about trying to jump the solenoid for fear of shorting to ground.

I remember having a day job. Hard to believe I've been retired 9 years!

[Rickf1985]

P-20? That avatar picture looks like a G series vehicle. I have not heard of a P-20. The main fusible link is at the starter and is the first section of the wire coming up. Obviously it is good if you have power to the dash. I would take the test light and check every fuse in the fuse block, first with the key off and then with the key on. Key off some will not have power but any fuse that has power on one side and not the other is bad. Key on and a fuse with no power to either side is a suspect circuit, if you have several with no power to either side you know you have a supply issue. Sometimes there are fuses with no power to them normally so if it is only one try to ascertain from the owners manual what that fuse is.

[Froggy1936]

Rick the P 20 designation is what my Mini Winnie is The only actual difference that I have found is P20 is small block & P30 is big block !  i?? Frank

[Rickf1985]

Looking at his avatar pic that is definitely a G series front end. That can make a big difference in wiring diagrams.

[DaveVA78Chieftain]

Yes, P20 (3/4 ton) is a P30's (1 ton) little brother.  Winnebago made the cab portion which closely resembles the G Series van.

Typical Fusible link





Fusible links can weaken with age and heat build up.  While they do use a fire resistant rubber coating, they are actually nothing more than a a wire that is 1 wire gauge smaller than the wire size used in the circuit (e.g circuit gauge = 14 gauge; fusible link wire size = 16 gauge)

[Rickf1985]

I stand corrected, P-20 it is. ( it still looks like a G  Hm? W% ) :)rotflmao :)rotflmao

[Jonbbrew]

Wow Dave! I am always impressed by you. Is there anything you don't know?

[Aaarrghh]

I stand corrected, P-20 it is. ( it still looks like a G  Hm? W% ) :)rotflmao :)rotflmao

Yes, nearly all parts I've bought at O'Reilly AP have been for P-20. A few brake parts have been P-30.

Thanks, Dave, for that fusible link picture. Looks like the melted link could only be detected with a test light.

Rain this week has kept me in the garage, working on my fridge. Next week is forecast to be sunny here. I expect to get out and work on the starting problem then.

This forum is such a great resource! 

By the way, I have a "1983 LIGHT DUTY TRUCK (Series 10-35) SHOP MANUAL" and an '83 "CK ST P & G-VAN WIRING MANUAL" that I didn't find in the members area. Could I upload it?

[DaveVA78Chieftain]

You can upload documents to http://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/index.php?action=mgallery;sa=album;id=471

However, we already have the 1983 ST-330-83 Chevrolet Light Truck Service Manual and 1983 ST-386-83 Chevrolet & GMC Light Truck Wiring Diagrams in the member area.

Select Member Area -> Manuals, Diagrams, and Tech Info -> Chevy/GM P-30 Chassis from TOC.   Scroll down to 1983.

Those are the documents I pointed you to in the previous post.

[Aaarrghh]

However, we already have the 1983 ST-330-83 Chevrolet Light Truck Service Manual and 1983 ST-386-83 Chevrolet & GMC Light Truck Wiring Diagrams in the member area.

I guess I need to spend time learning to navigate that area.

[Aaarrghh]

Well the sun came out nice this morning, so I got some ambition. I pulled the doghouse off and tested some wires (see the photo below). One of the wires lights up my probe when I turn the key to start. I guess that rules out anything behind the dash, thank goodness. What's left is the neutral safety switch (down on the transmission-see the conduit from the tee), and the starter solenoid, and the wiring to those.

Looking at the photo, can you tell me what that grey material is around the wire conduit, that probably is meant to protect it from the exhaust manifold? I'm hoping to not have to mess with it, but I'd probably have to get new material, if I did.

[M & J]

For that age it may be asbestos. But it is for heat protection. There are many better, newer and safer products. Any place that sells headers have heat wrap.

[DaveVA78Chieftain]

The wiring diagram implies the neutral safety switch is mounted on the steering column for 1983.  If, you are getting -12VDC to the purple wire connected to the "S" terminal on the starter mounted solenoid when the key is placed to start, then that indicates the "start" signal from the ignition switch through the Neutral safety switch is good.  You should only get -12VDC to the "S" terminal when the transmission lever is in Park or Neutral.  That is the easiest way to check that circuit.  Many times a steering column mounted neutral safety simply needs adjustment.  Also, as the switch wears, you sometimes have to jiggle the transmission select lever to get the starter to engage. The neutral safety switch replacement procedure for the G & P chassis' in the service manual includes an adjustment procedure.