How to test radiator & water pump?

[Fearless1]

No, it hasn't boiled over with the cap on. By the noise level not changing when the needle gets to RED, probably it's the fan clutch? Don't know if my hands are small enough to get to fan clutch from top with shroud intact. Not being a contortionist might be a drawback also. What are the wrench sizes for nuts and bolts for fan and clutch?

[kennyrodgers]

I managed to change the water pump etc on my 94 Fleetwood Chevy P30 from up top. I'm pretty svelte so it wasn't too bad of a job. Changing the fan clutch should be straight forward enough.......If you can squeeze yourself in there.

[EldoradoBill]

No, it hasn't boiled over with the cap on. By the noise level not changing when the needle gets to RED, probably it's the fan clutch? Don't know if my hands are small enough to get to fan clutch from top with shroud intact. Not being a contortionist might be a drawback also. What are the wrench sizes for nuts and bolts for fan and clutch?

I'm 6-4 300 lb and cannot wear a run of the mill XL or flea market work glove, so you should fare better than me. A 1/2" GearWrench did the job-you'll appreciate the fine tooth ratchet and narrow arc a quality wrench will give. Water pump to clutch nuts are Nylock and fan to clutch bolts had blue LockTite so for me it went slow.


Bill

[Rickf1985]

Like I said before, different brands have different access. On my 89 Winnebago Chieftain I cannot get to the fan from the top, I would have to squeeze my body between the dash and the engine to get that far forward. Some others have much more access further forward. I can get to mine from underneath but getting the fan out is like figuring out one of those mind bender puzzles.

[EldoradoBill]

You won't get the fan out without removing covers. But there's no need to. If you can access the top of the throttle body or carb from the inside cover you have room to get at it from the top. It's not easy but not impossible either. In fact, when you get quotes for someone else to do it, it seems quite simper 


Bill

[Rickf1985]

Bill, are you considering he probably has dual A.I.R. pumps and the top one is dead center on top front of the engine?

[M & J]

That's why I can't reach ours from the top.

[Fearless1]

Is there a special tool or way to keep fan from spinning when trying to R&R fan clutch? Considering the LockTite, I'm thinking it's going to be lots of fun changing it?

[Rickf1985]

Hold it with your hand to loosen the bolts from fan to clutch, do that first and then take off the nuts that hold the clutch to the water pump. The belts will hold that from turning. If they do not just push in on the belt to tighten the tension on it and then loosen nut while holding belt in. That would tell me the belts are too loose, check them after you are done. You can actually take the fan off of the clutch first and let it sit in the shaft of the clutch and then take all of the nuts off of the water pump side that are on the lower part leaving a top nut on but loose. This will hold the whole thing on until you are ready. Then you can take the nut off by hand with one hand and set it aside while holding the clutch slightly in towards the pump with the other hand. It is sitting on a pilot on the pump and will not just fall off as long as you keep it straight. Now hold the fan with one hand and the clutch with the other and wiggle it off the pump and carefully work it out of the fan towards the radiator. you can set the fan on the shroud. Reverse to install.

[Fearless1]

Is there another way for "back-up" when removing fan clutch nuts besides holding belts? Can't seem to stop the spinning.

[Fearless1]

Forgot to add: Trying it from top.

[Rickf1985]

Is there another way for "back-up" when removing fan clutch nuts besides holding belts? Can't seem to stop the spinning.

Are you turning the motor over when holding the belt in? If not then tighten the fan belts and try again. You ARE trying to loosen the bolts aren't you? as in turning in the right direction.

The bolts on the fan to clutch you need to hold a fan blade.
Nuts on clutch to water pump the belts should hold it.

[Fearless1]

Yep, turning in the right direction - Lefty=Loosey_Righty=Tightey. Took off AC belt and bracket for solenoid for a "little" more access room. Used a tire tool levered against alternator bracket to put more tension on belt. Finally broke one nut loose and scraped my arm from the tremendous amount of pressure needed. The strength that only comes from eating "Cheerios" as a youngster. Got claustrophobic under the dog box; try again later.

[Rickf1985]

Find yourself a longer box end wrench or use a socket and breaker bar or long ratchet. I don't know if you know the mechanic's trick of locking two box/open wrenches together to get more length. If you are using a short 1/2" inch wrench it is going to be tough because it sounds like someone grossly overtightened the nuts. The advantage being that you can slide the pulley around to get the next one in line to the best place for you to get a grip on it.

These are the types of problems I always used to point to when people would come to my shop and ask why it cost so much to work on a car. They do not realize all of these little issues we deal with all the time. They just see the commercials on TV where the mechanic just throws the brakes on and done, simple as that.

[Fearless1]

Yep, I'm familiar with the ole box end wrench trick, that's what I had to do; even works on a ratchet. Found out why nuts were so tight - LockTite - it works. The whole studs came out. After I broke them all loose, I took out the adjustment bolt for alternator and loosened the pivot bolt so it would swing away from motor, gives enough room to get to fan clutch. I was beginning to think clutch had been Super Glued to fan; finally pried it off. Noticed the alternator belt was separating, going to replace them all. All this fun and it's still daylight. 

[Rickf1985]

I would be sure to get those nuts off of the studs before putting it all back together. heat them up and that melts the lock tite. Two other nuts locked against each other on the bottom end will hold it while you get the lock tited one off. You do not need to get it red, you will see the stuff go "poof" and then it will spin right off. Let the nuts cool on their own, no water, that will change the hardness of the nut.

[Fearless1]

Think I should use LockTite on the studs? Yes, it has a big A.I.R. unit in the middle on top; definitely restricted access. Getting the alternator out of the way makes a big difference. Still limited access, but much better.

[Rickf1985]

I would not worry about lock tite on those nuts, they are not a high vibration area and they should have lockwashers.

[Fearless1]

Thanks for all the input guys. Good Stuff. Finally got fan clutch and fan installed with nuts and bolts finger-tight. Reached for Gear Wrench to tighten them and saw bushing that goes in fan clutch. Wonderful, another opportunity to do some more “wrenching,”  bust some more knuckles, skin and scrape arms some more. Are we having fun yet? :)rotflmao [size=78%] It helps to put duct tape on edges that your arms contact, also leather gloves laid on them. I found out that duct tape on the arms in the areas that contact metal and belts, is highly beneficial to prevent skins and scrapes and nicks. Put a little Vaseline on existing injuries so the tape won't stick and pull off the scab. Got it all back together with new belts. Got the coolant test strips, they test Freeze Point, Boil Point, and PH. How to test/read for cracked head gasket? Can't really test it out 'til I get a new issue fixed: the alternator pulley. Will start another thread for it.[/size]

[Rickf1985]

Bushing for fan clutch? Did you buy a clutch for a P-30 or did you buy a universal clutch? I have never had a separate bushing.

[Fearless1]

Got it for P-30 at AZ. Came with bushing. Bushing was same size as original fan clutch (circumference), but the shaft depth in fan clutch was much deeper in new one.

[Fearless1]

Forgot to add: bushing is only about half the length of the shaft depth.

[Fearless1]

Checked a couple of places online and the belt is correct - Duralast 560K6; fan clutch is also correct â€" Duralast 22045. I'm now considering taking the clutch back out (Ugh!) and looking at it and the bushing really good. Didn't check out the length of the water pump shaft. Being bushing is not the full length of shaft socket and depth is far greater on new one, what would keep bushing in place? Bushing is necessary to achieve diameter of old fan clutch. 

[Rickf1985]

Does the fan ride straight and true? If so do not worry about the bushing, I am sure it is fine. Look down there at idle and if the shaft is running round and not wobbling it is fine.

[Fearless1]

Fixed the alternator issue. Temp still pegs the gauge. Does anyone know how to read those coolant test strips checking for a cracked head gasket? States it reads boiling point, %, and PH of coolant. Got another tempt gauge, opened it up and sensor has odd-ball 1/8" thread. Wonderful.