How to test radiator & water pump?

[Fearless1]

Fixed the alternator issue. Temp still pegs the gauge. Does anyone know how to read those coolant test strips checking for a cracked head gasket? States it reads boiling point, %, and PH of coolant. Got another tempt gauge, sensor has odd-ball 1/8" thread. 
Strange - I posted and the message didn't make it.

[Fearless1]

This is third time trying to post this.Fixed the alternator issue. Temp still pegs the gauge. Does anyone know how to read those coolant test strips checking for a cracked head gasket? States it reads boiling point, %, and PH of coolant. Got another tempt gauge, opened it up, sensor has odd-ball 1/8" thread. Wonderful.

[Fearless1]

I see it still didn't post. OK 1 more time:
Fixed the alternator issue. Temp still pegs the gauge. Does anyone know how to read those coolant test strips checking for a cracked head gasket? States it reads boiling point, %, and PH of coolant. Got another tempt gauge, opened it up, sensor had odd-ball 1/8" threads. Wonderful. 

[Rickf1985]

So you need an adapter for the sender to the size you have which is probably 1/4" pipe. And the test strips should give you directions for the head gasket test, if not then you did not get the right ones.

[Fearless1]

 Yep, those sites are for the tool using a blue solution that turns yellow in the presence of  hydrocarbons. The tool creates a vacuum pulling air from the radiator through the solution. Since the test strips were unobtainable, I got the loner tool from AZ. Solution is $9, enough for about 10 tests. I broke the vacuum several times to retest. Results - Negative. The adapter needed for the new digital tempt gauge is an unusual animal - 1/8" fine thread x 1/2" NPT. Tried Lowe's (Knightdale), AZ (Clayton), O'Reilly, Ferguson's (Raleigh),  Hudson's Hardware (Clayton), who referred me to Nolands (Smithfield), who referred me to Home Supply, who referred me to Auto Value of Smithfield, who had the illusive critter. All before dark. Gauge works good. At 185 I went around to front, coolant was boiling out of uncapped radiator. Cut engine off, tempt was225 and kept climbing to 233. Need to get some more distilled water before any more testing. And next would be what?  i?? [size=78%]  [/size]

[Rickf1985]

You have to have the radiator cap on, the water will blow out as it warms up and pushs air through the system.

Ok, I just read your other post about the negative for head gasket. You need to fill the radiator to the top when it is cold, You are using 50/50 antifreeze aren't you? Also fill the coolant recovery bottle to the cold fill line with the solution. PUT THE CAP ON! Start it up and let it warm up. You should see some air pushing into the bottle for a while and then as soon as the thermostat opens it should pull most of the water out of the bottle and the temp on the gauge should go down. At this point shut it off and let it cool off for a half hour or so and then add more coolant to the recovery bottle and start it back up again and watch to see if draws all of that water out. Keep doing this until it stops drawing water down past the cold reading on the bottle. At this point the gauge should be steady at around 180-195. If it is still going up to 225 then you have a block obstruction or a weak water pump.

[Fearless1]

I had the radiator cap off to make the test on the coolant, can't take the cap off a hot radiator. You can, but it's not advisable. I don't use that 50/50 Antifreeze. I use half distilled water and half antifreeze.   It burped a few times when I was adding coolant and only sucked in about 3/4" from the reservoir, the first time, then no more. Then temp got up to 208 at idle; after a couple of minutes, I cut it off. Temp then started climbing up to 233. Waited a while, temp at 170, at idle climbed back to 208 for a couple minutes. Then accelerated a bit and held it for a couple of minutes, temp got to 210, and bounced to 212 a few times. Cut it off and temp started climbing to 251. What's up with that?  i??  Does the vibration come with that jet engine sound or is it extra?

[Fearless1]

Forgot to add: Engine "runs on" a couple of seconds after turning the key off.

[Rickf1985]

It will climb after you shut the engine off because the engine is heat soaking the coolant. The water is not circulating through the radiator, just sitting there absorbing the heat so it will get hotter for a while. You are not giving it a chance from the sounds of things. 208 is not that bad, you need to let it run for a good half hour. If it is vibrating when the fan clutch kicks in then something is wrong, it is not together straight. Half distilled water and half antifreeze is 50/50. You are probably only one in a thousand that uses distilled water! It certainly is not a bad thing to do, most people just don't do it. Including me. Another thing to keep in mind is that you are not driving this down the road so there is no airflow through the radiator besides what the fan is pulling. Have you taken it on the road to see what it does?
It may be buried somewhere back in the past posts but what gauge are you using? Aftermarket or the one in the dash?

[Rickf1985]

I see no mention anywhere if the engine has ever been checked for ignition timing, have you ever checked the timing and how fast is it idling? Is the exhaust crossover valve on the left manifold open?

[Fearless1]

I'm using a digital after-market gauge bought online. The instructions that came with it says to buy (not included) an adapter for the sensor that installs in the upper radiator hose, which has to be cut for installation of adapter. I used a different adapter and installed the sensor in the same port as original sensor. Seems to me like the temp would fluctuate with sensor in hose? Haven't taken it out on the road yet. How to check timing, can't see markings like on a car? How to check if exhaust crossover valve on the left manifold is open? I've checked the water pump pulley, seems to be turning true, no wobble. What else to check for vibration? Idle sounds alright, don't have a tach (yet) to check by the numbers instead of ear.

[M & J]

You should get a full membership for $5. Then you'll have full access to the manual download section. It's honestly a real bargain just to get the manuals we have here.

[Rickf1985]

A digital gauge is going to show fluctuations you would never see on an analog gauge. You are letting that worry you too much. Those temps that you posted are to be expected when you are just sitting in one place depending on the fan for the only cooling. You mentioned hearing it kick in so it is now working. It will not really start to pull enough air to cool the engine until it is fully engaged so that is when you need to see what the gauge says. And keep in mind it takes a little bit for that water to circulate and cool so it is not going to show up on the gauge as soon as the fan kicks on. And once the fan kicks out it will rise again. With 50/50 antifreeze mixture and a 15# radiator cap you will not boil over until at least 220-225 or maybe even higher. There will be a chart that tells you exactly what the high and low limits of the antifreeze are, just google it. At this point I think you need to stop worrying about it and get enough done to get it on the road so you can see what it reads on the road. And it will fluctuate while you are driving due to load. That digital gauge will tell you instantly what it see's unlike an analog gauge which buffers the reading a bit. If you have never changed any of the emissions controls on the engine that will also cause it to run hotter, this is by design.

[Fearless1]

Got a flashlight and mirror to get a better look at belts and pulleys. Water pump pulley seems to be turning true, but fan seems to have a very slight wobble. Belts look good. Probably have to take it back apart and try again? Can't understand fan wobble with all bolts tight.  i??

[legomybago]

Got a flashlight and mirror to get a better look at belts and pulleys. Water pump pulley seems to be turning true, but fan seems to have a very slight wobble. Belts look good. Probably have to take it back apart and try again? Can't understand fan wobble with all bolts tight.  i??

If you have a lot of wobble, your bearings in your water pump are bad.

Bushing for fan clutch? Did you buy a clutch for a P-30 or did you buy a universal clutch? I have never had a separate bushing.

I've never had a separate bushing either....There must be something wrong with the fan clutch you purchased. Or like I said above, your w-pump is toasty

[legomybago]

Rick, you sure are giving this person a ton of good info, takes a lot of patience to mechanic on-line. Don't give up Fearless

[Rickf1985]

Grab hold of the top of the fan and see if there is any wiggle in and out. If there is try to see if it is at the clutch or the water pump. If the belts are pretty tight it will be tough to feel a loose pump bearing. The fan will generally have a little run out, not loose but the blades do not all run in the same plane. If it moves when you wiggle it then chances are something is wrong since it is new. The bushing part is what I don't like, that sounds like a universal fit arrangement to me.

[Fearless1]

Fan doesn't seem to have any movement in or out. I'll loosen it later and try without tension on belt. Fan clutch is a heavy duty Duralast 22045, listed to fit. What puzzled me was bushing length was only a little over half the depth of socket.  i??

[legomybago]

Here's the fan clutch you should have purchased.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1793626&cc=1059308&jsn=436

[Fearless1]

Checked out that link. It looks and sounds like the same as the Duralast and $13.20 cheaper.  D:oH!  In the installation instructions listed, it addressed that bushing (3/4" x 5/8"), so it must come with theirs' also. Don't know the length of their bushing. Didn't realize the importance of replacing water pump at same time as fan clutch. If I do replace the water pump, I'll try to get one with a 3/4" shaft instead of the 5/8", and discard the bushing. More fun! 

[Rickf1985]

You are NOT going to replace that pump from the top like you did with the fan! Everything on the front of the motor has to come off. There are two very large brackets that the accessories all bolt to and those brackets are bolted over the water pump. If the pump is not bad then you do not want to replace it. My favorite acronym for Duralast is Duracrap. It is all Chinese crap for the most part. Rock Auto is not much better unless you know exactly what you are looking at since they have SO many choices for each part.

The part # I come up with is a Haydon #215045 which is a severe duty clutch, You can find it here on this chart. Actually this is where I found the application, way down there.

http://www.rockauto.com/genImages/93/haydenSD-HD-SVRD.pdf

[EldoradoBill]

A Hayden 2797 severe duty fan clutch was a perfect fit for my rig, $43 at Rock Auto. Hayden was the preferred aftermarket for snow plows and livery vehicles "back in the day".  The others seemed to be a "one size fits most" and had bushings you needed to fit to the pump shaft depending on the application.....


Bill

[Fearless1]

With that enlightening info Rick, I do believe I will put the water pump on the back burner for now. Checked out the chart and it definitely shows Hayden #215045 to be the replacement (page 29 - 26 of 61). But, going to Rock Auto web page and entering number, it won't pull that part up. Went through the choosing for specific vehicle and to cooling system parts - radiator fan clutch - and Hayden #2797 comes up along with an ACDelco and Four Seasons brand, but no Hayden #215045.  i??

[Rickf1985]

This one? Got to love Amazon!

https://www.amazon.com/Hayden-Automotive-2797-Premium-Clutch/dp/B000C3F3D4

Also found this for further reference.

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=hayden+2797&clk_rvr_id=1059132859600&adpos=1o2&treatment_id=7&crlp=102861909398_857&MT_ID=71&device=c&rlsatarget=kwd-177681283238&keyword=hayden+2797&geo_id=10232&poi=&crdt=0&ul_noapp=true