Rear wheel hub meltdown or what

Wilhelm7 · July 28, 2016, 10:24 PM

I need to rebuild the wheel cylinder on the right rear. So I pulled the axle and found what looks like a disaster. I don't even know what I'm seeing. Did someone try to spot weld the bearing adjustment nut into place? There are little blobs of metal on and between the threads and what I guess is what's left of the nut. Or did it overheat? Is this a basket case? Any opinions would be greatly appreciated, especially as how to remedy this. Thanks.

Rickf1985 · July 29, 2016, 09:13 AM

Kind of hard to see in the picture, can you get a better view of it from maybe a 3/4 top view? I would have to say I have never seen anyone weld an axle nut on. I could see if it was an emergency out in the middle of nowhere and done the old fashioned way with jumper cables and coat hanger and battery if the nut stripped but leave it that way?!! (Yes, I have done a LOT of off roading in the back country) That may be why it was sold.

Good news is that it can be repaired, I hope you have patience. Look online for a thread repair file. It is usually a four sided affair with eight different thread pitches on it. Might be a good idea to get a thread pitch gauge also. You are going to have to get a good sharp chisel and pick a spot on the nut away from the weld and cut the nut by chiseling towards the spindle, short quick hits until you are almost all the way through. Then you should be able to tap the chisel between the bearing and the nut and pop out part of the nut. Peel out each side of the nut to the weld and break it off at the weld and get a die grinder or a cut off wheel and very carefully grind the weld down just to the point where you can get the bearing and hub off. Now, with a small triangular file you can cut most of the weld out of the threads as best you can, just try to make it look somewhat like a thread again. Then you will go over it with the proper thread file until a new nut runs over it without binding. This is not going to be a quick or fun job and you cannot rust it, if you grind the threads off completely then they are gone. It could be welded and machined but buying a new rear would be cheaper. You can try to find a die large enough to do the job but if you find it it will be expensive. I have not seen one in many years. I had a thread chaser for Dana 60 spindles but it was stolen and I have never been able to find a replacement.

Thread repair file. http://www.penntoolco.com/33001/?gclid=Cj0KEQjw_eu8BRDC-YLHusmTmMEBEiQArW6c-CAZqAwOfqHhhHHcRWssTgnDuJHpCQmoBYQUy1VOzlAaAlJx8P8HAQ

Thread pitch gauges https://www.google.com/search?q=Thread+Pitch+Gauges&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiT_8CI4pjOAhUJdz4KHfBkA9oQsAQIYQ&biw=1920&bih=940

Wilhelm7 · July 29, 2016, 10:34 AM

Thanks, there's hope. I wasn't aware of the tools you mentioned. I'll try to get a better picture.

budder · July 29, 2016, 05:52 PM

Had the same problem on mine some knob welded the nut on. I drill the nut with a small drill bit away from the thread and then peeled the nut of. I got my self a thread file and a adjustable die i think mine was 16tpi.
It took half a day just don't rush it.
All good now.

budder · July 29, 2016, 06:33 PM

I used one of these...
OTC OTC7402 Universal Outside Thread Chaser https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0002SRGV6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_JL9MxbPN0QGR9

Rickf1985 · July 29, 2016, 06:37 PM

I didn't think it was that popular of a butcher job! A tack weld maybe but to weld all around? What are these people thinking. And this would have been on the left side for both of you I bet? That is due to someone losing the washer and lock that holds the nut in place. The bearing turns in the direction that will loosen the nut.

Rickf1985 · July 29, 2016, 06:39 PM

I used one of these one time that a buddy of mine loaned me and they do work quite well. A little pricey but it will work faster and more accurately than the hand files. I forgot all about this one.

Wilhelm7 · July 29, 2016, 08:50 PM

This mess is on the passenger side. As for parts, NAPA? I need a washer, a lock(?), and a nut? The service manual pictures aren't too clear, but it says, "...remove outer hub nut. Straighten lock washer, remove it, inner nut and bearing. Carefully remove drum." Thanks for the additional info.

Rickf1985 · July 29, 2016, 09:04 PM

NAPA should have all the parts, the nuts and lock washer should come as a kit. Plan on a new set of bearings and a hub seal. You may be alright with the inner bearing but I would replace it. Do not even think about reusing the outer bearing. You are going to most likely bugger it up getting things apart and if you plan on replacing it then you do not even have to worry about damaging it. That was a really bad weld so you may not be in too bad of shape getting things apart.

budder · July 30, 2016, 01:56 AM

I got all my parts from rockauto i replaced both bearings, hub nut, washer,seals and all new brake parts
I then painted it all up. Proper job

.

Lahti35 · July 30, 2016, 11:24 AM

Eee gads! Welding on bearing retaining nut!?!? Will wonders never cease!

Froggy1936 · July 30, 2016, 02:36 PM

The repair of welding on the hub nut is hear by officially nominated for BUTCHER AUTOMOTIVE REPAIR Hall of fame ! A sure winner Frank

Surfinhurf · August 01, 2016, 07:39 AM

What a BIOTCH, I'm soooo glad I didn't run across that when I got into mine.

http://www.quad4x4.com/dodge70rear1972-1984.html#wheel

The only place I could find the proper lock tab washers.

Good Luck

HURF

legomybago · August 01, 2016, 12:45 PM

I've seen that sort of thing once before......On an old Mack dump truck. I didn't think I would ever see it again!!! Wrong. Good job on the fix

Wilhelm7 · August 01, 2016, 07:20 PM

Thanks for the link, Surfinhurf!. I went to seven truck parts shops today, only two have the bearing and nobody has the lock washer and spindle nut.

Rickf1985 · August 01, 2016, 07:45 PM

Try a regular auto parts place and ask for parts for a 71 (that's what year it is right?) W300 pick up.

Dorman P/N 05306

http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=15644&cc=1402850&jsn=430

Wilhelm7 · August 01, 2016, 08:53 PM

Thanks Rickf1985. Yes, it's a 1971. The manual says I'll need a hub gasket, too.

Can someone tell me which way to bend the locking washer and do all the tabs get bent? I assume you'd bend them all over the first nut? Is that right?

Thanks much.

Rickf1985 · August 01, 2016, 09:16 PM

You bend them over both nuts if you get the two nut setup. (Ok, get that thought out of your mind! D:oH! ) You just need to bend over the ones that line up with the flat surfaces of the nuts. If you have just the one nut with the nylon locking material then you only have the one to deal with, again, just over the flat surfaces. If you get the nut with the nylon you should also get the wedge type lock that drives in under the nut.

Wilhelm7 · August 02, 2016, 09:22 AM

Thanks Rickf1985.

So I could also use
Dorman 81035 HELP! Nylon Hub Nut?
I found on Amazon. They have the wedge, too and a locknut socket.

Surfinhurf · August 02, 2016, 09:31 AM

http://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/index.php/topic,12864.msg76407.html#msg76407

I just did what you are doing, take a look at my pics. They will show you what it should look like.

Good Luck
HURF

Wilhelm7 · August 22, 2016, 06:53 PM

Well, I finally got the threads repaired with a thread file and the OTC thread chaser. Not perfect but I can get a nut on it.

The ordeal was about replacing the wheel cylinder. If ya'll could indulge me a couple of questions that'd be swell:

1) The center holes in the new wheel cylinder boots seem to be awfully small for the diameter of the push rods. Is there some type of lubricant to use to get the push rods through? I've already installed the wheel cylinder. Should I have crammed the push rods through the boots before installing the cylinder? I can't find details in the service manual.

2) Do I need to grease the wheel bearings or do they get splashed from the differential?

Thanks in advance.

EldoradoBill · August 22, 2016, 07:55 PM

The push rods are a tight fit. You may need to remove the boots, push the rod thru and reinstall the boots (no big deal).

I always grease the bearings first just so they don't run dry until the oil gets up there.

Bill

Rickf1985 · August 22, 2016, 08:47 PM

Yea, what he said.

If the pushrod will NOT go through no matter what you can use some silicone grease on the rod. That is the same as the dielectric grease you use on plug wires and trailer plugs.If you do not have any of that then a smear of brake fluid will suffice. Twist while pushing in.

Wilhelm7 · August 23, 2016, 12:06 PM

Thanks, Gents.

Wilhelm7 · August 26, 2016, 10:05 AM

As I mentioned before, I can now get a nut on the spindle after working with the thread file and OTC thread chaser. However, it takes a lot of oomph to turn the nut. Would it be advisable to rent a 2"-16tpi die to see if that helps to reduce the effort in turning the nut or do I run the risk of bunging it all up? Thanks in advance.