Converter fan running non stop should I be worried???

[HVACguy]

Hi folks, so this may be answered somewhere already, but Im on my phone, in a campground in the middle of nowhere and Im too stressed to search. So just got the rig, 1989 Winnebago Warrior class C. This is the maiden voyage and I am already stranded waiting for parts ( Which I will ppst in another thread) Anyway this is my cherry pop for RVing, so I have not begun to figure things out. I plugged into shore power (30 amp) the first night here(last night March 3rd) everything seemed to work, ran lights and furnace for a couple of hours, no fridge, water etc.


Today ot was warm, so I tested and ran rooftop a/c for a couple hours and it ran great. So finally, I decided to try the fridge, it is a 3 way ac,dc,or propane. Turns out I had it on the dc mode, for maybe 2 hrs then I switched it to ac. My power converter fan has run non stop now for several hours. Do my batteries get drained when hooked to shore power? Or was ot because I selected dc operation for the fridge?


Thank you in advance.

[yellowrecve]

If your fridge cooled while on 12v then you were draining the battery rapidly. The fan is cooling the batt. charger.
Usually the fridge is wired to not work on 12v unless the engine is running, but not always.

[DaveVA78Chieftain]

For 1989, and original, it is a good bet it's a 6300 series converter.  Fan running will depend on how many loads he has going (furnace, water pump, lights, computer/tv inverter, fridge, etc.).  More amps, more heat generated, longer time the temp sensor will keep the fan ON.

[DRMousseau]

Remember, when on shore power, your 12VDC system will still be operating most everything,... furnace, lights, exhaust fans, fridge too (unless it's AC or propane), and also the water pump when used.


On shore power, your 12V converter will be handling all those needs, and will have a pretty constant use. Most converters will also be recharging and maintaining the battery as well. So it's not unusual to hear the fan kick in, especially under heavy use or charging needs. In a well ventilated location, it will "cycle" on and off as needed. But in an enclosed or protected area where heat can build up or accumulate, it can run excessively under even light loads. Make sure it's getting plenty of fresh cooling air, and keep it clean! Dust and dirt accumulation inside can also cause excess heat build up.


Oh,.... and that annoying buzzzz. yes,... it gets louder under heavy loads, and more annoying!


Battery condition, charge rate of converter/charger, ambient temps, and DC use,... can all affect the run time of the converter fan.

[Rickf1985]

ON my 89 I also have the three way fridge and even if I am plugged in to shore power I can set it to run on DC with the switches and it will do just that, pull massive amounts of amps from the batteries. It will not use the AC in that setting. I think what he has going on is a long recharge of the batteries and not something to worry about. Hint, do not use the DC setting except for when the engine is running or stopped for short times like getting gas or a rest stop. The DC setting can draw 40-60 amps when the fridge calls for cooling.

[DRMousseau]

The DC setting can draw 40-60 amps when the fridge calls for cooling.

ACK!
Never occurred to me that 500W heating element would certainly draw 40A@12V!!!!


Battery capacity is always a premium to me,... so propane or AC (on genny or shore line) is my preference and I'll give carful consideration to my future options to use a battery inverter on a power hungry fridge!!!

[tmsnyder]

These draw 40-60A at 12V??  I don't remember seeing #6 wire running to my refrigerator, I'll have to look again.


A new Norcold only draws 14.8 amps at 12V.


Are you sure they draw 40A?

[Rickf1985]

Nope, not sure exactly what the older ones draw but I will look it up on mine.That was a quick guess to get a point across about the recharge. A DC heating element is going to be greedy on power even if it is not a primary source. Mine tells me that it will not cool the fridge and is only to maintain the cold once it is cooled by propane or AC power. No matter what you are not supposed to use the DC power on the older ones without the engine running except for short periods. It will draw the battery down fast since most are hooked up to the chassis battery and not the house batteries.

[DRMousseau]

These draw 40-60A at 12V??  I don't remember seeing #6 wire running to my refrigerator, I'll have to look again.


A new Norcold only draws 14.8 amps at 12V.


Are you sure they draw 40A?

A 500w (40A) fridge heating element is pretty extreme AND VERY HOT. The Norcold spec. corresponds to a typical 140W-180W (approx.) heating element,.. VERY warm to touch, but not really excessive. (Not certain, but it seems the small fridge in my Brave had a very small 100W(?) element, and took MANY HOURS to bring down to temp,... but would maintain it as Rick described)


My pair of near prime T-105 batteries, boasts an optimistic1500Wh of capacity in ideal conditions (much lower in practical use), and would last only 10hr if the 150W fridge element was on 100% all the time,... 8hr at 60degree temps outside. But like the furnace blower, it cycles on and off depending on needs. My furnace blower draws less than 5A,.. but a long cold night can see a significant drop in my battery by morning, from the furnace alone! This is due in part to reduced battery capacity at low temps, and to the near constant draw rate of the furnace fan when so cold.


All considered, on shore power, your converter/charger is gonna be pretty busy, either maintaining your DC needs, recharging your battery to full capacity, or BOTH! I often wish I had gotten a converter with a greater charging rate than my chosen selection, which is significantly higher and better than the original!!!! Being on shore power 100% at this time of year, it cycles on occasionally, but it's in a very cool and well ventilated location.


Your converter fan running non-stop, would only concern me IF the converter was excessively hot all the time too. Then, like myself and others, you might consider a replacement of greater capacity. And don't overlook the ventilation needs, as well as an adequate battery bank in good condition to match your needs of use too.

[Froggy1936]

A 3 way fridge operating on 12V only has no temperature regulation, If everything is working correctly and batterys are being constantly charged ,The refrigerator will become a full size freezer Frank

[M & J]

?? Ours does Frank. Temp control whether 12v, 110 or propane.

[TerryH]

Mine is same as Mike's.
As for the converter fan, if I do not hear mine cut in occasionally I tend to check the converter cover at the fan location to make sure the converter is not overheating due to a fan problem.
As per Dave, fan running continually with the converter overheating would be a huge concern.
Best Converters's site (excellent company to deal with) has/had some photos of charred flooring under converters.
Good idea to open the cover occasionally and vacuum out the dust - carefully of course.

[Rickf1985]

Yep, I had the charred floor in my slide in. Looked exactly like the picture.

[EldoradoBill]

My No Cold 2-way fridge has 6 gage wire running to it fom the breaker, as far as I know it's either 120vac or propane. Seems like heavy wire just to light the interior light...


Bill