73 D18 roof replacement

Rickf1985 · June 04, 2017, 08:32 PM

I would put another layer since you still have space there, you can never have too much insulation.

Chief Crazy Canoe · June 05, 2017, 11:03 AM

Holy smokes, just saw this post - that's an incredible accomplishment! Very inspired by your progress - keep up the amazing work!

demon · June 05, 2017, 08:35 PM

thanks! im just glad to be getting close to finished! as far as adding more insulation , the center of the rafters i made are 1 1/2" and curve down to 3/4". The insulation is 3/4" thick so the only place that i could add any is right in the middle. maybe 4" each side of the center. Im putting a ceiling next and then thee wilbe something else up there...not sure what yet but it will help with that as well.

demon · June 12, 2017, 08:04 PM

Ceiling is up! This was a pain! My wife helped me with the first one but I did the rest myself. Glued every piece of wood up on the roof and the edges of the ceiling boards before i put them up but I had to lift the roof with blocks so I could slide the ceiling between the roof and the walls. The ceiling boards where able to bow to get them in to fit between the walls and up and over the edges of the walls but it was awkward by myself. Looks awesome though. the pics dont really look as good as it does . Hopefully Ill get to lift it one more time to put glue between the roof and the walls and then staple it down! Close now!

demon · June 12, 2017, 08:04 PM

One last pic of the ceiling

M & J · June 12, 2017, 08:07 PM

CapnDirk · June 12, 2017, 08:36 PM

is that raw wood or paneling?

demon · June 12, 2017, 08:50 PM

Its raw wood...called utility panel??? thats what the tag said above it at the store.I really like the way it looks. im still not sure what the whole interior is gonna be exactly so this might be covered anyway but I might just use some kinda sealer on it...we'll see

CapnDirk · June 12, 2017, 09:20 PM

That's why I was asking. Looks like it might have some character with a little light stain and sealer.

Rickf1985 · June 13, 2017, 08:21 AM

So this whole roof is not attached to the rest of the unit yet? I hope that does not come back to bite you after all of this hard work! I would have anchored the ridge board to the walls and then the rafters to that and built up from there to tie everything together. As long as you are using something along the lines of PL2000 construction adhesive when you glue it down you should be good. I am old school and just don't trust staples and glue although today's glues are stronger than most nails. Hm?

demon · June 13, 2017, 06:10 PM

I was afraid to run strips of wood down the sides on top of the sides then try to attach the rafters to that piece right at the tip of the rafter. Its only 3/4" thick . what we did was set the rafters all the way to the aluminum so its sitting on top of the wall then we used that nice 3/4" plywood and cut pieces to fit between the rafters on top of the wall. then the 1/4" plywood is on top of all that right to the aluminum so that connects everything... everything is glued and stapled. heres a pic where you can see the wood on top of the walls

demon · June 17, 2017, 08:00 PM

Roof is glued down and stapled!!! No pics cause it looks just like it did in the last pics. Now to decide what im covering it with.

Rickf1985 · June 19, 2017, 10:00 AM

I went back through all of your posts and I don't see any mention of what kind of stapler you are using? All I can find are the 1/4" crown staples and they are way to narrow, I would love to find what they used when they built these hings but hen finding the staples to go in it could be a problem.

demon · June 19, 2017, 05:32 PM

yea i just have a harbor fright air stapler I bought to build my wifes chicken coop. They are narrow staples probably 3/4" long. Your probably right, wider would be better but it will be ok. Is glued down with that construction adhesive you guys talked about in the beginning and also the the roof top whether it ends up being fiberglass or aluminum, will wrap around the sides at the top and get stapled thru the side at the top than the aluminum drip rails get screwed on thru the side wall aluminum and the roof skin. Not likely to will come off!

legomybago · June 20, 2017, 10:12 AM

I have a 7/16" crown stapler I use for sub flooring, fence boards, cement board (tile) flooring, it would work great for this application.

CapnDirk · June 20, 2017, 12:33 PM

Another thing is a roofing STAPLER. It's what I believe they used for making the cabinets (where they would bridge the joint on a 1X2). 1/2 crown stapler was popular for crating and fencing (of course use non corroding staples on fence).

demon · June 29, 2017, 05:39 PM

Ok , I think I found the aluminum to cover the roof but I havent got it yet.Ive been looking online I was thinking of using contact cement to glue it down. Thats what they use on vinyl tops on cars and it holds well. Any thoughts?

Rickf1985 · June 29, 2017, 08:39 PM

Vinyl is flexible, I am not sure you would get the coverage needed on the metal.

CapnDirk · June 29, 2017, 08:58 PM

on the aluminum roofs I've done, it was not bonded down. It was centered then all the vents, AC, whateva held it down. The front and rear edges got incorporated with front and rear skins or whatever, and the long edges with whatever trim was up there with a slight rollover of the top skin. Most motorhomes you will see a trim piece up there. Mine....well.... they decided to put a glued down quarter round piece of aluminum. We all wound up with leaks.

Rickf1985 · June 30, 2017, 09:28 AM

Aluminum expands and contracts a LOT in the heat and cold so I don't think gluing it down is a good idea. IF the glue did hold then something has to move with the expansion and contraction, that would be the roof structure or the metal buckling. That is probably why that did not glue the factory metal roofs and instead just put molding over the edges, so it had room to move in and out. (and cause leaks W% W% )

demon · June 30, 2017, 05:17 PM

Intersting! I went back out and looked at the old metal and it was definatly glued to a thin piece of wood and then the foam and,another piece of wood on the inside. I'm,guessing that's the " thermobond " they are talking about. The walls are done the same. There is no way they are not glued with something

Rickf1985 · June 30, 2017, 07:04 PM

How thick is your metal?

demon · June 30, 2017, 07:24 PM

Not sure . Either .032 or .040 but I havent got it yet. Not sure about what was on there either. I didnt measure it

demon · July 02, 2017, 03:13 PM

also was thinking if the aluminum was riveted like a tractor trailer and it expanded and contracted you would think it would leak all around the rivets ? The contact cement is rubbery so it would give i would think

Rickf1985 · July 02, 2017, 08:46 PM

Trailers are all aluminum so they expand and contract at about the same rate, you are talking aluminum over insulated wood. I am not saying it will happen, I just know 20 feet of aluminum will grow about an inch in length if I remember correctly. What are you going to have at the edges to cover the edges? You will probably have an overlap molding there so that will keep the sides attached plus any vents and stuff on top plus whatever moldings you have front and rear so I guess the glue will hold with all that other stuff to keep things in place also.