D24CL front and rear axle swap into D20T

[thecaptain]

Ok guys here it is help? ?


I have a 1973 Winnebago Brave model D20T  with eight 5/8" lugs and the damn 17.5 rims and I want to take the 1973 Winnebago Chief model D24CL with five I think 1" or 3/4" lugs and 19.5 rims and put them on my brave.

Questions?

Will the 19.5 rims and tires fit in my wheel wells ok?

What are the gear ratios that were used do you think they are the same?

Can I just swap the rear end and front end or do I also have to change the leaf springs too?

Think I will have to adjust my drive shaft?

Please help have a chance to get this Junk motor home before it is crushed!

Thanks, The Captain.  Also I am about to convert my original 440 engine to port fuel injection with dual sink distributor and ECM to control it all!!! will make a post of the job.

Can also email me at ww2guy (At) hot mail DOT com Thanks to all need your help here

Anything else you think might be a problem

[Rickf1985]

I am not going to comment on the swaps since I am not that knowledgeable on the older Dodge motor homes. The rear should be simple though. I do have a question though, what is a double sink distributor? Sounds like a plumbing fixture. :)rotflmao

[thecaptain]

Ha, your right should be sync, it controls the timing off the crank shaft sensor so you always have the correct timing at any speed along with fuel delivery with injection which I will be adding.  Back on the swap, I think my D20 has a Dana Spicer 60 and this D24 has a Spicer 70 so wondering if they are the same width, same size at the the drive shaft extension and wonder about the rations anyone?


Does anyone know if these 1973 Winnebago's using Spicer 70's had 4:56 or 4:88 or other ratios they came with?  What about the Spicer 60's what were these factory ratios?  My motor home had a 440 and so did the D24?


Wonder if the 19.5's will fit under the wheel wells in width and height?  All the other posts come close but do not answer a lot.  With all the discussions surprised nobody has done this yet?


Somebody must know this stuff

[CapnDirk]

What about measuring from the top of tire to top of wheel well, measure radius of new tire compared to old for what you would lose.

[Rickf1985]

It would be hard for him to tell without have the two rears together so you could check flange to flange widths. They should be the same but the 19.5 rims have a pretty good offset to them.

[DaveVA78Chieftain]

First, using the Winnebago reference designations (Brave, Chieftain, D20T, D24CL, etc.) are meaningless.  For this discussion you have to talk in Dodge Chassis terms (M300, M375, RM300, M400 (RM350), M500 (RM400), M600).
The Dodge RM300 and RM350 (M400) chassis used 17.5" rims with 5/8-18 lugs
The Dodge RM400 (M500) chassis used 19.5" rims with double lock lugs.   Outer lug is 1-1/8-16.  The inner lug stud is 3/4-16.

[CapnDirk]

Good point Rick, forgot to account for total width of assembly.

[thecaptain]

Ok guys I appreciate any and all thoughts the Rim offset is a good one and is important and can be the make and break of this (I had not really thought about that).  The height I don't think will be a problem, it is the width I now worry about because of the rim offset which I will have more info on Thursday.  I gave the D20T and the D24CL because that is all I have from the data tags. I can not find anything with Dodge Chassis numbers on it.  I thought maybe we could determine from the rims sizes and designations if the vehicles were 300-400-500.  That aside, this is what I have so far and will have more on this Thursday when I can inspect and measure some things:


My motor home is a 20 foot Brave 1973 440 engine with 17.5 rims.  I discovered it has a Dana/Spicer 70 rear end with 4:56 ratio.


The donor Motorhome is a 1973 with 440 engine with 19.5 rims and I think it was a 27 footer (Chief Indian)? It is only a frame with engine and wheels nothing else right now.  But the data tag did say 1973 D24CL whatever that means.  I am confident this one also has a Dana/Spicer 70 rear end but not sure on ratio yet??? suspect it is a 4:88 but this can be changed as I have seen the ring and pinion parts are available in several ratios???


My plan on Thursday is to measure rim offsets, rim widths, axel width, tire heights, and determine ratio as well as confirm it is a Dana 70.


Thoughts and questions I have maybe someone can help with?


What is the offset difference between 17.5 rims and 19.5 or are they the same?  Why wouldn't they be the same?  Besides the length of the motor home they are the same year 1973 and same Class A right?  Frame and coach should all be the same width and all right???


Did all the 27 plus foot class A Winnebago's use Dana 70's is there such a a thing as a Dana 80 or larger that was used in 1973?  Was there a standard ratio used on the long ones or was there an option to pick higher rations?  I am under impression that all the long ones (Indian Chief) used 4:88's


Is there anything else anyone can think of I need to pay attention to or check on on Thursday when I am at the donor motor home site?


If all goes well I seek to make this a kick bum home run driving project.  I have had this Brave I call "Marines Dream" for 20 years.  I have had the 440 rebuilt and have installed a gear vendor over/under drive (the very best this you can do).  I am about to install the Edelbrock Pro-Flo XT true port fuel injection with electronic module and dual sync distributor which will control spark advance and fuel with ECM module.  I hope the icing on the cake will be 19.5 wheels (easy to find and RADIAL TIRES!!! YIPPY!!!)  With radials and 19.5 I can either try to match the height of the 17.5 or go taller for even better ratio better gas mileage and engine wear.  But I must take into account mountains and climbing hills too.


If successfu,l between the fuel injection, gear vendors over/under drive, radial tires and also the ability to change the ring and pinion gears in the new donor rear end to anything I want 4:10 , 4:56 or other, this will be one hell of an upgrade for cruising. 


I know this is some money but I am a vintage guy, all my cars and motorcycles are vintage.  I  don't like modern over all, only performance modern enhancements to old classic stuff. So this motor home is paid off LOL,  so would rather put money into this one then spend even more money to get a newer used one without these performance improvements.


If I can figure how to post photos I will.  No matter what, I will get all the answers out there so anyone trying this will know that it can or can not be done!


Thanks hope to hear from anyone.

[Rickf1985]

The difference between 4.56 and 4.88 is very slim and the 19.5 tires will be taller so if it is 4.88 it will most likely even out. I am going to bet on 4.56 though. You do not want to go below that, especially with an overdrive or you will be lugging the motor and both the motor and mileage will suffer. You want the motor turning at least 2600-2700 RPM minimum.

[DaveVA78Chieftain]

If you serious about owning a Dodge Chassis based Winnebago, then the answers to most of your questions are in the Dodge Chassis Service and Parts manuals available in the site store.

69-73 M300 (16" split Ring rims; 4 wheel drum brakes) - Spicer 70 with either 4.56 or 4.88 ratio
69-73 M375  (17" split Ring rims; 4 wheel drum brakes) - Spicer 70HD with 4.56 ratio
73-74 RM300 (17.5" rims; Front disk [12.82" rotor]/Rear drum [12"x3"]) - Spicer 60HD with either 4.10 or 4.88 ratio
73-74 RM350 [M400] (17.5" rims; Front disk [12.24" rotor]/Rear drum [12"x3"]) - Spicer 70 with either 4.56 or 4.88 ratio
73-74 RM400 [M500] (19.5" rims; Front disk [13.36" rotor]/Rear drum [15"x4"]) - Spicer 70HD with 4.56 ratio

[thecaptain]

AHHH! so pissed just wrote and entire detailed summary update and questions and attempted to give you all some photos.  Photo file was to large so it went into error mode and wiped out my summary too! Ok here we go again sorry guys no photos maybe later:  Yes I am a serious Winnebago nut so I wll be ordering the service parts manuals, thank you for the info.


Here is are the stats I now also have the Dodge Chassis designation although mine is one I have not seen used on the site at all: 


My Motor Home:  1973 D20T Winnebago Brave R30 with 17.5 wheels and Dana 70 with 4:56 ratio.

Donor Motor Home:  1973 D24CL Winnebago RM400 with 19.5 wheels and Dana 70 HD with 4:56 ratio.

Mission swap axles to have 19.5 wheels for ease of finding tires and having radial tires too.

So here is what I have so far.  The over all width of the axle with wheels and tires is the same, so is the inside overall width.  The rim offsets of the 19.5 and 17.5 are the same 8"  The rim width is the same 8" The Dana 70 and the Dana 70 HD seem to be identical in outside configuration so I think the only difference is the internal axle size or splines?  Because it is rated to carry more weight, but maybe that is just because it has bigger brakes?  But all measurements seem the same so should be an easy swap.  The wheel wells are the same for both vehicles so the 2" taller 19.5 tires should be no problem.


The front end axle seems the same except of course for the larger caliper, and hub for the 19.5 wheels.  No problem in front.


One big bonus I hope to carry over is I see that the Donor has factory front and rear sway bars!!  Mine doesn't very nice upgrade as a result!


Down side the last owner destroyed the front brakes metal on metal no disc pads left so I have to buy new rotors!  These could end up costing more than the entire used set up.  Is that not a damn shame!!!


So questions now???  I may not have to swap the front and rear axles to get the 19.5 set up on my rig?  What am I thinking and asking?  Well on the front maybe my axle spindle is the same as the 19.5?  maybe I can just swap the calipers, the caliper bracket's, the rotors and the hubs onto my spindles?  This way I don't have to do the entire axle swap.  No heavy lifting, steering arms, brake loses, u bolts?  Anyone know if the spindles are the same?


On the rear?  Same thing?  maybe I can just swap out the rear hub and drums?  This way don't have to unbolt the entire rear and brake hoses etc?


If not then will have to put the entire Arc on jacks and swap both entire assemblies.  Damn shame I have to replace the rotors but so it is.


Thoughts concerns?  It will probably take me months to do this but I intend to keep this post going so that anyone who is wondering or wanting to do the same will know accurately that it can or not be done and if it can how.  No cliff hangers no unanswered question as I know this 17" 17.5 " wheel issue is a big deal to those of us who want to drive vintage classic Winnebagos!!


Bonus bonus the donor vehicle had factory in dash AC and cruise control so I have that now to install in my "Marine's Dream" Motor Home!!


Semper Fi let the battle continue stand by for the next sitrep....situation report.  Welcome feed back to my questions or your own.


Thanks, The Captain

[Rickf1985]

Well, Dave is our resident expert on what fits and what doesn't but I seem to remember asking this same question a while ago and there is some issue that prevents the swap of the outer suspension parts on the front. I know Dave has a day job so you will probably not hear from him till later this evening. I am pretty sure the Dana rear ends are the same, you will know as soon as you pull the hubs and check the bearing sizes.

[thecaptain]

Interesting, eager to hear from dave.  Yes I think you are right on the rear won;t know until we see the bearings I suspect hate to even write it that it will be different because this 70HD is designed for more weight so prob bigger?


When you say suspension difference in front not sure what you mean.  The springs and shocks all look the same that is suspension and I don't think that has anything to do with the spindle and bolting other hub and rotor to it.


So that to will have to wait until I tear it down or if Dave has the answers. 


Thanks the answers and the truth is coming.....

[DaveVA78Chieftain]

Will be back later however king pin sizes for the 2 spindles are different

M300: NAPA P/N NCZ2621452

M500: NAPA P/N NCZ2621529

Kingpin Repair Kit P/N information

Will go into more details later

R3 VIN code = RM300 chassis

R5 VIN Code was the RM400 (M500) chassis

I took a quick look for M500 (RM400) rotors and didn't find any.  Be careful with EBAY as they say RM400 however those a not M500 (RM400) rotors.  THey are either M300 (RM300) or M400 (RM350) rotors

Spicer 60 (RM300): 6200lb
Spicer 70 (M400 (RM350)): 7500lb
Spicer 70HD (M500 (RM400): 10,000lb

If the axle is designed to support more weight, then it also holds true the springs and attaching hardware for a given chassis are designed to hold more weight.

While several chassis components are shared between the M400 (RM350) and M500 (RM400) chassis', the M300 is normally all by itself.

If you are going to move things over, then almost all of the suspension and brake parts will have to be moved over.  I have no clue if the bolt holes in the frames match up.

The RM300 brakes

The M500 (RM400) brakes

[DaveVA78Chieftain]

Centric M500 (RM400) brake rotor



https://www.amazon.com/Centric-120-67010-Premium-Brake-Rotor/dp/B00152Q3IU

http://www.ultrarev.com/Centric-120.67010-Premium-Brake-Rotor-Cht.html?imt=1&gclid=Cj0KEQjw6LXIBRCUqIjXmdKBxZUBEiQA_f50PsGXA2BuSjY5n8c8jViAjyXr0inXFlegRXjLEMUWhN8aAkMJ8P8HAQ&utm_campaign=Shopping&utm_source=Google&utm_medium=PPC&utm_content=HighPriorityCampaign

[thecaptain]

Wow DaveVA78Chieftain!  Are you the same "Dave's Place" web page?  Very informative page and this rotor info is awesome.  I spoke with Geoffrey at Alretta Truck Parts and after speaking with him I thought he was the only one in the country that sold these rotors and they were $245 each plus shipping.  But he had some other things to say about this swap and I am still checking all things out before I proceed and post what I find and do.  I would like to talk to you Dave on the phone can we talk?  Shoot me an email at ww2guy@hotmail.com. Thanks.  I will say that if I do not do this swap I discovered that 17.5 radials are now available in what I am told so far in my research only one brand "RoadLUX" Model R216 tire in 235/75R17.5 H rating. 


1. Anyone know if these tires are any good?  I know they are Chinese (Trump would be pissed)  How is a 235/75 compare to my 8x17.5?


2. More opinions on riveted rims and radial tire use?


3. Anyone else know of sources for 17.5 radials  If had to go bias ply what is the latest sources for them.


4. Did the old 1973 RM400 M500's come with or use radials?  Where they using riveted rims?


As usual more question as I nail this down, but this post thread by the end will have all the answers NO cliff hangers on this subject.  All the other strings never seem to solve this common problem.


Thanks everyone.

[DaveVA78Chieftain]

I typically use the 8R17.5 tire
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=4.3L+vortec&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.X17.5%22+radial+tire.TRS0&_nkw=17.5%22+radial+tire&_sacat=0

Rims limit tire pressure therefore do not exceed 80lb tire pressure for 17.5" rims

Are you the same "Dave's Place" web page?

Yes, that's my website.

Geoffrey at Alretta Truck Parts

Is knowledgeable however always very expensive.  It is my understanding a few people here have had a bad experience with him.  I have never dealt with him. While there are a couple of parts that have been troublesome to identify what the aftermarket P/N is (e.g M375 Wheel Cylinders ), 95% of them are available.  All this had a lot to do with why I put my website together.  Also. please understand many times the aftermarket suppliers stop supporting something so what was available when I built the website may no longer be available.

For items like this, always contact the part supplier if you can.  Example, Centric picture says the rotor weighs 31lbs.  The ultarev supplier listings I Linked to says 20lbs.  I know my M400 rotor is up around 30-35lbs so I believe centrics value for the M500/M600 rotor.  May be a supplier typo, maybe not.  Have them check on it.

[thecaptain]

Yes! agree on the parts as I have researched and come to the same conclusion.  Outstanding web page.  Can't we talk on the phone I really would like to hash out several issues you know more info always begs more questions.  The time old question right now with respect to your post.


Your link takes us to Ebay and there are 215/75 17.5 tires  and 8R 17.5 tires and there are radials and bias ply:


Q.  What brand are you using what ones have you used and which do you feel have been best?


Q. Can you use either the 215 or the 8R?  I think a 205/75 is equivalent to a 8R but have not found one yet.


Q. Are you running radials or bias ply?


Q.If you are running Radials are they on the riveted rims or not and your felling on that?


For everyone on this what I think will be the complete threat on the subject by the end with no cliff hangers or questions here is the update:


Still gathering all the parts from the RM400 1973 M500 Chassis and weeding through my decision as to do it or not???


Have not committed but I have total access to the used parts from the donor vehicle and at this point don't know other than the need for new rotors if I will need any new replacement parts.  So here are the issue to contemplate right now as I go forward.


1. I totally believe the complete axle assemblies are a no problem fit remove my M300 front and rear axles completely and swap and they will fit no problem.  Spring perches, width, wheel well room all is no problem.  These being heavy duty to the lighter M300 it is nothing but a mechanical upgrade.  Also note the gear ratio is the same 4:56 and an ugrade in the fact that it will now have a popular 19.5 and taller tire.  But do it or not? these are the issues unanswered and mysterious in opinions.


a. Still unanswered is the issue of riveted rims and running radial tires on them?  I noticed these 19.5 off the M500 Chassis has radials and riveted rims?  So if this is a NO WAY can't do this we are back to square one or I am out looking for welded 19.5 5 lug Dodge rims? who knows if they are out there?


b. Being heavier duty then my M300 single piston caliper this M500 braking system uses a dual caliper front disc system and a much heavier rear drum brakes then the M300.  So I think it is a must to also bring over and install the master cylinder, DUAL BRAKE HYDROBOOSTERS, and brake portioning valve as they were designed to work with this entire system.


c. Doing the above require a lot of work, new brake lines to accommodate the dual brake boosters instead of my single.  More brake line work probably to accommodate my different portioning valve, and more brake line work probably to accommodate the bigger calipers, as well as Bigger brake drums....Ah probably the entire stinking brake line system. 


d. Don't know the condition of the brake hydro boosters, I mean it drove and worked until parked last year but who knows if they are both good. I do know they are expensive to rebuild and find new?  Could be $400-$600 each anybody?  I think I have same one on my 1943 Army 1.5 ton truck.  I found it new for $350 two months ago and don't want to buy more of them!  Same on the master cylinder although probably ok.


e. Then there is the issue of the brake rotors, I have a call into Centric to verify they have the correct ones for $120 each.  But now add this info provided by Geoffrey Of alretta Truck parts:  He said the rotors are manufactured balanced.  But the original hubs on the M500 were not balanced so putting new balanced rotors on an unbalanced hub will cause wobble and uneven brake wear.  So have to get rotors put on and have entire assemble balanced.  Don't know who yet can do it for me and what that would cost?


f. Don't know the condition of the bearings and sure should do all the seals.  same with the rear don't know the condition of the brake drums, shoes and all hardware and probably should do wheel cylinders at a minimum and there 4 that is FOUR! on the heavy duty M500 system.


So I would love comments on the parts and theory.  This is a lot of work and will probably kill my season for motor camping and use this year.  Don't forget as this is going on I am port fuel injecting the engine, upgrading the electronic ignition, adding in dash AC, and eliminating the manual fan clutch and fan and going with dual electric radiator fans tied into the Electronic Control Module controlling the ignition and fuel injection system.


But think of the completed project nothing that is great is easy.  Nothing it truly ever given it is earned!  At the end of the year could really have a heavy duty drive system, taller radial tires easy to find and replace, combined with the already installed gear vendors over/under drive and upgraded port fuel injected BB440 in this classic 20 foot Brave!  All because we are sick obsessed with our classic vintage rides.  I have had this Brave for 20 years and intend to have it another if I'm alive still.  Those Heavy duty rear brakes will probably still be ok in 20 years if the wheel cylinders hold out.  Discs too considering the over sized for the lighter smaller Chassis and weight!


So gathering the rest of the parts and inspecting them all.


Hate to write this last part but it is reality......other option is to now buy what is now available as you all have seen but was not really available in the past few years.  New tires in 17.5.  Could just buy new 17.5's and be done?  Of course I have not gotten the solid information I need to go this way if I do.  That is again radials on riveted rims? Best brand reviews by those who have used them?  And 8R 17.5 or 215/75x17.5 or even 235/75x17.5  or again bias ply?


Ahhhhh, a lot but that is where we are at.  Can we please keep it going?  Dave can you shoot me an email on my other email or can we open up the idea of a phone call?  I really believe based on your web page that you are a true classic Winnebago man.  By the way youtube Winnebago man and watch or what the hell have you all seen this?  This is funny will take your mind off all this:       https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=56u-bZwexyU


Thanks,  The Captain, no time to proof read sorry hope not to many errors you get the gist here right

[DaveVA78Chieftain]

8x17.5 = bias ply
8Rx17.5 = radial

I said earlier I am using 8Rx17.5
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=17.5%22+radial+tire&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.X8R17.5%22+radial+tire.TRS0&_nkw=8R17.5%22+radial+tire&_sacat=0

My M400 17.5 rims are welded, not riveted.
Riveted sounds more like Split Rims (widow maker) that require a inner tube and liner inside (protects the inner tube from the rim).
Split rim


19.5" Tubeless Budd style rim from
http://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/index.php/topic,8206.msg39569.html#msg39569



I said earlier if your going to do this I recommend you pull all the brake components over.

You will have to make your own brake lines.  Pep boys carries tubing and fittings
This is for my 77 M400 with hydroboost brakes (runs off the power steering pump).  You will need to put something similar together for a M500 Dual Hydro-Vac system (vacuum operated).

[thecaptain]

Nice.  Yes I am taking all brake components from the donor vehicle Hydrovac and all.  I am fully aware of what split rims are as I have multiple vehicle that use them.  My rims have rivets and a weld every 6 inches which hold the rim together.  Very common on these vehicles.   I'm at work so can't attach a photo right now but will.  My 17.5 are for tubless tires but again have rivets and weld no split rims.  Any other knowledge of my other questions?
Q.  What brand are you using what ones have you used and which do you feel have been best?Q. Can you use either the 215 or the 8R?  I think a 205/75 is equivalent to a 8R but have not found one yet.Q.If you are running Radials are they on the riveted rims or not and your feeling on that?


Q How long and how many miles are you getting out of your 8R radials?

[DaveVA78Chieftain]

Nice.  Yes I am taking all brake components from the donor vehicle Hydrovac and all.  I am fully aware of what split rims are as I have multiple vehicle that use them.  My rims have rivets and a weld every 6 inches which hold the rim together.  Very common on these vehicles.   I'm at work so can't attach a photo right now but will.  My 17.5 are for tubless tires but again have rivets and weld no split rims.  Any other knowledge of my other questions?

Q.  What brand are you using what ones have you used and which do you feel have been best?Q. Can you use either the 215 or the 8R?  I think a 205/75 is equivalent to a 8R but have not found one yet.Q.If you are running Radials are they on the riveted rims or not and your feeling on that?

Q How long and how many miles are you getting out of your 8R radials?

What brand are you using - The Double Coins I linked to.

I have only used the 8R so I am not sure what they would cross to.

How long and how many miles are you getting out of your 8R radials?  I do not use the rig a lot.  Mine will age out before they mileage out.

I do not recall ever seeing rivets in my rims.  My look like these http://www.ebay.ca/itm/8-lug-17-5-x-6-00-RIM-dodge-motor-home-ford-counter-sunk-1-ton-wheel-dual-good-/282044366808?hash=item41ab277fd8:g:GIcAAOSwxCxT~Klv&vxp=mtr

[thecaptain]

What brand tires are you running?  How long have you had them?  Have you used them before? What are everyone's feelings on rivited rims with radial tires?

Do you have rivits on your rims you have to look on the inside of the rim not the outs side in your pictures

[thecaptain]

Ok everybody here is where we are at:


I have totally stripped the 1973 M400 M500 24 ft Winnenago.  It has the Dana 70 HD and the dual caliper front disc brakes. 


As a reminder want to put these axles under my M300 20 foot Brave.


So here are the issues so far trying to decide if I want to do it.


1, Since these are bigger heavier they are a total upgrade to my lighter motor home no problem there would not want to go the other way around.  This is same chassis so a total axle swap fits no problem.  Here are the plus and minus to think about:


To use this heavy duty set up I also had to remove and will have to reuse the Dual Brake Boosters this one has one for each axle vs my M300 just one for both.  Not sure if the master cylinder is larger so I pulled it and will use it too.  Not sure if the brake portioning valve is different than my M300 so pulled that too to reuse.  Now in using the entire axle assemblies they will bolt right in no problem and I will have much better brakes and 19.5 rims and tires instead of my 17.5 the 19.5 are easy to find, radial and 2" taller which is a nice bonus for gear ratio especially since I have the gear vendors over under drive.  Oh. also the steering arm is different so had to reuse that too, it goes from steering box to drag link.


Now this is what I was told the rotors are only available at one place (allreatta truck parts Geoffrey $250 each) but we know from these posts that is not correct you can get them for $130 each in Centric brand.  But the pain is you must pull the hub and have it balanced by machine shop because they were not balanced from the factory so if you just put new rotors on it will wobble.  So new rotor on and then have the entire thing balanced.  No idea who or how much yet?


Of course you need to be real good making brake lines to reuse all the portioning valve and the now two brake boosters since my rig didn't have this stuff in the same configuration.  In perfect conditions, I would have carefully removed all the brake lines from the junk motor home and just moved them over.  Was not an option, so If I do this I will be making all kinds of lines to get this set up correct.


Not not sure have not verified this but Alretta truck parts tells me the 1973 Dana 70 HD rear brakes were one of a kind never used before or after self adjust system that is supposed to be hard to get right working right and was not a good system.  NO parts are available brake springs or cables or anything.  I think these will be fine very few miles will clean them up and probably never have to see them again, they are so heavy duty never wear them out I'm not to worried.


So comes down to labor and time since the 17.5 radial tires are now available $1000 for (7) new ones plus mounting of course.


Not sure what I will do but I will post it all when I decide. 


Oh and these 19.5 rims from the 1973 has radial tires on rivited rims thus the input I would like from all those reading if they have any thoughts on radial tires on rivited rims since I have heard both rumors for and against what are a few more?




Thanks trying to decide
 

[srosa707]

Hey man, did you ever get this swap finished up?

[Oz]

He hasn't been on the site since his last post on May 22.   i??