Engine overheating '86 Itasca Sunflyer w/454

[motorino]

Hi
. On my rv itasca sunflyer 23rg 1986 with 454 4bbl engine I have hot running problem


How much is at idle or accelerates without going stopped is not heated and he fan clutch connects well. But on the fan clutch does not connect. E new radiator, new thermostat, new fan clutch, new antifreeze.
  The electric fans also connect.


The sleeves become hard when passing the half of the temperature gauge.


My question is if it is possible to have a water pump problem.
In Spain it is already very hot 40 degrees celsius.


This happens to somebody. The engine has 45k oil 15w40 and antifreeze syntetico 30%


I'm sorry to be able to have a problem with the temperature sensor, but there is only a problem in progress so I discard the bad sensor.
It is convenient to put a performance water pump instead of standard.
thank you for your help





hola. en mi rv itasca sunflyer 23rg de 1986 con motor 454 4bbl tengo problema de calentatamiento en marcha
cuanto esta a ralenti o se accelera sin ir parado no se calienta y ele fan clutch conecta bien.pero en marcha el fan clutch no conecta. e puesto radiador nuevo,thermostato nuevo,fan clutch nuevo,anticongelante nuevo.
los electroventiladores  conectan tambien.
los manguitos se ponen duros al pasar de la mitad de la gauge de temperatura.


mi pregunta es si es posible de tener un problema de bomba de agua.
en españa hace ya mucho calor 40 grados celsius.


le pasa esto a alguien . el motor tiene 45k aceite 15w40 y anticongelante syntetico 30%


piento poder tener problema en captor de temperatura pero solo hay problema en marcha asi que descarto mala medition de captor .
es coveniente poner una bomba de agua de performance en vez de estandar.  gracias por vuestra ayuda

[motorino]

LO SIENTO


Water Pump for 66-97 Chevy GMC Car Truck 6.5L 6.6L 7.0L 7.4L
]its correct

[motorino]

Sorry I do not write English, I try to communicate through google translate

[motorino]

I am researching on the internet and more and more seems to be the water pump that does not move enough antifreeze. Possibly the blades that are already 32 years old are worn or broken

[motorino]

GMB PARTS ITS GOOD PARTS OR NOT  what brand of water pump do you  recomend? gmb, asc, acdelco, bosch, airtex, gates, am autoparts, 1AAUTO ?

[Rickf1985]

Out of all those choices of pumps given I would go with the Delco since it was the factory brand. It is good IF it is a new pump and not a rebuilt pump. First off, are you sure it is actually running hot? ave you checked it with a laser thermometer at the thermostat housing to see if the temp on that instrument is the same or close to what the gauge says? Has it boiled over? If it has not boiled over I would check the actual temperature before going to much further. Changing the water pump on that vehicle is NOT a fun job! EVERYTHING in the front of the motor has to come out. The radiator, air conditioner condenser and oil cooler.Then you have all of the brackets on the front of the mother that are over the water pump. So you want to be sure it is the pump.

[motorino]

Thanks rick.  I have a thermometer and I will check it.    It would be good to put a water pump performance given the high temperatures of Spain.  If I have to change the pump at the end of the test I will put acdelco then ,Thank you

[Rickf1985]

You do not want to move the water through the radiator so fast it does not have time to cool. That could happen if the  pump is too powerful and move too much water too fast. You are best off with a stock pump. Think about it, the original pump worked just fine for 40 years.

[CapnDirk]

Motorino:  You may also have a clogged radiator.  Only a slow amount of water is getting through.

[motorino]

hi
the radiator is new,fan clutch new ,thermosta new, antifreez 30% new
electro fan conect ok

[Rickf1985]

What I was trying to point out is you may have a gauge problem and not an engine problem. If it is still overheating with all of those new parts I would suspect a leaking head gasket. Have a shop check for hydrocarbons in the coolant. Or you may be able to buy test strips to do it yourself.

[motorino]

Hello, today I could not measure the temperature with the thermometer, I'll check it tomorrow,
I hope I do not have a bad head gasket because in Spain I get spare for my RV takes more than a month, and a cylinder head is laborious,
One more question, I'm getting 7mpg, it's correct, I do not have data since in Spain there's only one itasca sunflyer 23rg, my RV is a whim I have, I love it, I already rebuilt the th400, and the rochester quadrajet, and canceled everything The air system and put new spark plugs and cables,

[Rickf1985]

7 mpg is about right, especially if you are in mountainous terrain. You need to find out for sure if the engine is actually running hot or if you just have a bad gauge or sending unit that is telling you it is. It is not impossible for the water pump to go bad but it seldom happens if antifreeze was kept in it. t is more usual for the bearings to go bad or the seals to go bad and then they leak. If you want to test the pump you can take the upper radiator hose off of the radiator and put a garden hose in the radiator fill neck to replace water that is lost. Start the engine and watch how much water is flowing out of the upper hose that is disconnected. This is what the water pump is pushing, rev the engine and it should push out a lot of water pretty quickly. If it does this then the pump is good. This test is good for testing the pump but bad because you loose all of your antifreeze. I now suggest that you drain the radiator and also the block if you can get to the block drains which are pipe plugs right in front or behind the motor mounts. Even if you only get one out then that will drain enough water out of the system to be able to get the right ratio of antifreeze back in. If yo also have the rear heater and hot water heater option like a lot of these big units you will want to  block those lines off before doing the test and until you have the engine levels back to normal. That way you do not lose all of that antifreeze also.

On edit, I just noticed you have the 23 foot and not the 33 foot. You may not have the rear heat. Also, the mileage might be a bit on the low side but I would not expect over 10 MPG with it.

[motorino]

Hi.
Today the calefaction cuff is removed to check the water pump.
No water came out at the start.
But when accelerating to jump an obstruction that had and much water comes out with pressure.
The water pump is fine.
I will continue to remove the cuffs one by one and check obstructions.
I think I have found the problem.
Thanks rick for your help

[motorino]

Hello, now I'm removing the air system, I read many themas about this but I do not finish finding out how the vacuum tubes are relocated, my system is the ULB and the distributor ignition is always pulling, and put the valvuva going In the top of the new thermostat the 4 outputs and the under two outputs also new, the new egr and I am not clear how to replace the vacuum systems. Thanks, the holes that have been left when removing the tubes are closed with anchor bolts, not found the caps that is seen in the forum post for any site, ebay or anything, thanks for your help

[Rickf1985]

There should be a vacuum diagram on the air cleaner for the emissions hoses.

[motorino]

Hi rick, if the diagram is the ULB and i connected everything according to the diagram, but the vacuum of the dealer is always pulling from 800 rpm, and if acceleras works and I do not know if it is normal that it has an empty at 800rpm. Then when removing the vavio ports from the air system I do not know if to advertise or redirect the vacuum pipes, thanks

[Rickf1985]

There should be no vacuum at the distributor until you step on the gas pedal. It should be ported vacuum at the distributor but that is mixed in with manifold vacuum at the TVS switch that you put on the thermostat housing. It is pretty complicated the way it all works.