1988 454 radiator replacement by shop - cost?

Mtngoat · May 29, 2017, 06:22 PM

Hey guys, I am in the process of converting our new to us 1988 Winnebago supercheif 454 into a tiny house to live in full time while I build our cabin. I have a coolant leak coming from the radiator when it is under pressure. I am in a bind because I need to drive it from my current house to my property (roughly 500 miles) within the next week or so. My question is about how much would a shop charge me to replace the radiator? I have never took a vehicle to a shop for repairs and have always fixed everything on my own but with the time constraints and me still working this week till I move it I might be forced to take it in.
Thanks a ton.

Rickf1985 · May 29, 2017, 06:59 PM

That is a bare minimum three hour job and that is if they have a new one ready to go in and all the trans cooler and oil cooler lines match up, the lines matching up is unlikely since the mew one will probably be a newer aluminum one and I have not found one that has the same line arrangement. So at least three hours labor at whatever the labor rate is in your area, probably 80-110 per hour. That is JUST labor I am quoting, no expendables. It will be more but it all depends on hoses, AC charge, belts. If it needs belts now is the time while they are accessible.

Mtngoat · May 29, 2017, 08:06 PM

Quote from: Rickf1985 on May 29, 2017, 06:59 PM
That is a bare minimum three hour job and that is if they have a new one ready to go in and all the trans cooler and oil cooler lines match up, the lines matching up is unlikely since the mew one will probably be a newer aluminum one and I have not found one that has the same line arrangement. So at least three hours labor at whatever the labor rate is in your area, probably 80-110 per hour. That is JUST labor I am quoting, no expendables. It will be more but it all depends on hoses, AC charge, belts. If it needs belts now is the time while they are accessible.

Thanks for the reply. Do you think that finding a replacement radiator is going to be an issue or is that a common replacement on the older Winnebagos? Do you think it would possibly be cheaper to get a towing company to move it to my property and I could do the work when we get it up there?

Rickf1985 · May 29, 2017, 08:40 PM

I didn't have much problem finding one for mine and yours should be the same one. Unfortunately I don't have the P/N available but I will look tomorrow. Towing that far would be several thousand dollars and would not even be close to being worth it. While I don't necessarily recommend it BARS LEAKS does work on small leaks like that. If you use it be sure to block off the rear heater hoses and and the front heater if you can. This will prevent any chance of the heater cores getting clogged up with the Bars Leaks. It will not clog newer heater cores but once they get some age to them and get partially clogged with deposits then the Bars leaks will see the small passages as a leak and plug it. This could be what you need to get you to your new abode.

tmsnyder · May 30, 2017, 08:38 AM

I just replaced mine with an aluminum single core radiator from RockAuto, it was make and p/n APDI 8011544. Took me way more than a few hours b/c I'm not a pro and I removed the A/C condensor to get at the radiator. If I had to do it again, I bet it would take me at least 6 hours total. It seems like that job would be at least $1000, maybe $2000 if you went to the wrong shop. I've heard that they will really stick it to RV owners.

I drove mine 600 miles this week with the new radiator and no issues, kept it nice and cool even in the Pocono mountains. So I can recommend that APDI radiator, it was something like $150.

The fit was perfect except the tranny cooler lines. The upper one needed a small extension made from 3/8" brake line, cut to length and inverted flared. It also gave room to add a T for my tranny temperature sensor while there, so killed two birds.

For you to get yours home though, 500 miles isn't that far. If it's a small leak just drive it home with one eye on the temperature gauge. I drove mine all last summer with the radiator leaking slightly. It would leak about a quart every 4 hours of driving. After shutting down and cooling, it would suck fluid from the overflow and I would top that off every time I saw it was low.

You can reduce the pressure on the system too by (when the motor is cool) opening the radiator cap fully until it comes up against the stops on the cap, just before you have to push down and twist to get it off. Don't do it when it's hot though, you might get a face full of scalding hot coolant. If you take off the radiator cap, fill the radiator with 50/50 coolant, and put the cap on loose you can run it that way and there won't be much pressure on the system so it won't leak out as fast. 50/50 coolant is good to something like 230F, as long as your engine temperature is below 230F then you won't be boiling off your coolant.

If you get the engine temperature up to that temp, you will know b/c it will start boiling and you'll see the steam. You could run that way a little while, enough to get over to the side of the road or a few minutes down the road to the next rest area Then shut it off and let it cool down before attempting to remove the radiator cap (see above face scalding warning), then refill with coolant and continue.

If possible, do it at night when hardly anyone is on the road and everything is cooler. You can drive based on your engine temperature without worrying much about other drivers.

Mtngoat · May 30, 2017, 11:50 AM

Thanks for the reply. I just realized I said it was 500 miles. That is a round trip. I actually need to go only 250 miles so that is good. Mine is leaking a little worse than yours. Do you think a stop leak will help me get down the road without making too many stops. Also thanks for the part number and info on the new radiator.

cook elandan · May 30, 2017, 01:11 PM

do you know where it is leaking at?

Mtngoat · May 30, 2017, 01:42 PM

i pressure tested it yesterday and found the leak was coming from the back side of the radiator near the tank.

cook elandan · May 30, 2017, 02:08 PM

If you are able to see where the leak is, it is possible for you to solder it if you are able to solder.

legomybago · May 30, 2017, 02:34 PM

Not saying you SHOULD do this, but more than one time, when I've had a small radiator leak spring on me, I was able to run the rig home with the pressure release valve open on top of the radiator cap. Both times when I did this, it was my only option in order to get home, not for preparing for a road trip....Since you have a pressure tester, pinpoint the leak, could just be a hose???

Rickf1985 · May 30, 2017, 06:42 PM

And yes the stop leak will get you there but get the good stuff, not the store brand. And try to isolate or disconnect the heaters, that will save you trouble down the road. Usually you can just take one of the heater hoses off at the engine and cut the other one long enough to loop back and put it back on the engine. If you don't want to cut uit get a short length of hose. If they are two different sizes I would go with the smaller size and use Permatex Aviation cement on the smaller one and that will lube it up so you can force it on the bigger fitting. Remember, this is only temporary.

Mtngoat · May 30, 2017, 07:25 PM

Quote from: legomybago on May 30, 2017, 02:34 PMNot saying you SHOULD do this, but more than one time, when I've had a small radiator leak spring on me, I was able to run the rig home with the pressure release valve open on top of the radiator cap. Both times when I did this, it was my only option in order to get home, not for preparing for a road trip....Since you have a pressure tester, pinpoint the leak, could just be a hose???

after pressure testing it I found it was the radiator unfortunately and not just a hose.

Quote from: Rickf1985 on May 30, 2017, 06:42 PM
And yes the stop leak will get you there but get the good stuff, not the store brand. And try to isolate or disconnect the heaters, that will save you trouble down the road. Usually you can just take one of the heater hoses off at the engine and cut the other one long enough to loop back and put it back on the engine. If you don't want to cut uit get a short length of hose. If they are two different sizes I would go with the smaller size and use Permatex Aviation cement on the smaller one and that will lube it up so you can force it on the bigger fitting. Remember, this is only temporary.

. I got a bottle of the Barr leaks liquid aluminum from what I read it should do the trick. Any other advice on this stuff. Will the one bottle be enough? I never like using a fix in a can but am forced until I get it there. Thanks again.

Rickf1985 · May 30, 2017, 08:39 PM

I don't know about the liquid aluminum, If that claims to seal blown head gaskets do NOT use it. That is called liquid glass and it causes all kinds of internal problems. It is something the shady dealers use right before selling cars. The stuff I was talking about is plain old Bars Leaks, been around for 70 years.

This, http://www.g838.org/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=10827

I saw the stuff you got while I was looking up the stuff I linked to and it is not the liquid glass I was worried about. It looks like it would be just fine. I have never used it so I cannot vouch for how well it works.

Mtngoat · May 30, 2017, 08:46 PM

I will put it in later tonight or tomorrow and let you know the results. If I am only driving the 250 miles do you think it will still be necessary to block off the heater hoses?

Rickf1985 · May 30, 2017, 08:52 PM

I would since this stuff circulates in the coolant, where the coolant goes it goes. It sees any restrictive opening as a leak. Older heater cores have a lot of restricted openings due to age and this stuff will plug them right up just like they were a leak. Sometimes you can reverse flush them out, sometimes you can't. This stuff is good at what it does.

Rickf1985 · May 30, 2017, 08:57 PM

You can clamp the hoses shut with vise grips but use common sense here, it is a hose, not a piece of steel. You only need enough pressure to squeeze the two sides of the hose together. A heavy piece of cardboard between the jaws and the hose will protect the hose from the teeth on the Vice grips. One one each heater hose on the engine, two altogether. If the hoses are old the do not do it this way, they could burst.

Mtngoat · May 30, 2017, 09:46 PM

thank you for all the advice.

Mtngoat · June 01, 2017, 12:19 AM

So it looks like the Barrs leak stuff worked at plugging the leak. I am going to attempt the drive and replace the radiator when we get it to the property. Thanks to everyone who chimed in and gave advice. Thanks.

Rickf1985 · June 01, 2017, 08:59 AM

Best of luck and remember to flush the system before putting in the new one, no sense in getting any crap from the old setup in the new radiator.

Mtngoat · June 02, 2017, 01:47 PM

So the stop leak appears to have worked for the short term fix. We are going to make the drive tomorrow morning. Thanks for all the advice

Mtngoat · June 02, 2017, 10:57 PM

So i went out to make sure the leak did not return. Started it up and immediately the leak was 10x worse. Looks Ike I am not going to be able to make the trek before replacing the radiator. I am going to be forced to have AAA tow the vehicle. I have a AAA premiere membership so I still have 200 miles of free towing so the bill won't be too bad. I am going to order a radiator as soon as I get to my property. Just wanted to let everyone know the stop leak didn't work for me.

Rickf1985 · June 03, 2017, 09:41 AM

Did you run it with the radiator cap on from cold until it got hot and then let it run for a while? The stop leak work by finding leaks under pressure so if it is not squirting out it can't find it and it will not find it just sitting there overnight. You need to let it run and get up to temp with the cap on. Now if the radiator is so bad it is just blowing out then there is nothing that is going to work.
You may find AAA will not tow it under the policy because you are not broken down on the road. If you want to go that route I suggest you get started on your trip and THEN call them, that constitutes a roadside breakdown.

Mtngoat · June 04, 2017, 10:34 AM

Yes I ran it at temp for over a half hour the night before. We called AAA and told them the situation and they said no problem. It is broken down on the road but luckily it's in front of our current house and not blocking the highway.

dickcarl · May 16, 2018, 03:39 PM

Just getting started doing this on my '86 Georgie Boy. Can anyone tell me the major parts of the repair -- for example, does the front clip have to come off? I assume the a/c (which is fine, dead for years) and maybe some brackets. But why does the local Chevy dealer say it will be three days of labor?

Rickf1985 · May 16, 2018, 06:24 PM

Because they want to rape you for 36 hours of labor at 150 an hour! I don't know how the front of the Georgie boy is set up but it is not that bad. The A/C condensor has to be either taken out or rolled forward and then the hoses and lines from the coolers removed and the coolers have to be taken out. This is about a 1/2 hours work. The radiator hoses and trans lines to the radiator have to come off and the shroud has to be taken off but left hanging on the fan. Then the radiator brackets have too be unbolted from the support and the radiator removed. This can take from a half hour to an hour and a half depending on the placement of the bolts. The entire job start to finish should not take more than a day.

Things to consider while radiator is out is full belt replacement and fan clutch replacement. These are items that are VERY hard to get to with the radiator in but right there in the open with it out. How many miles are on it?