1968 d22 towing capacity?

Lukewarm256 · May 30, 2017, 03:47 AM

I'm a few thousand miles away from my Motor home right now, and have no way of finding out what the towing capacity on the thing is. I dont think i ever took a picture of the plate by the door that MIGHT have said this info, and i really dont have the owners manual with me (it's in the side-cubby).

While i'm trying to make plans on just how i am supposed to get this beast down from Alaska, i'm pretty sure that it's sitting, loaded with gear, at its 10k GVWR (which i remember), but i dont have any idea what it said, if it ever did say, what it could tow in addition to that(GCVWR). I'm looking at picking up a cheap dingy car (some old early 2000's Saturn or ranger) to drive up there, hook the car onto the back of it, and drive back through Canada, but i would hate to find myself getting WAY over it's weight limit at the border somehow.

so, does anyone know what it's towing capacity might be? it had the 318 engine. Any advice on the above plan would be awesome too.

Rickf1985 · May 30, 2017, 11:24 AM

Most of them were designed to tow a small car but only with a tow bar or dolly. Basically no tongue weight. But if you have the 318 engine and it is fully packed I think you will have issues pulling a car behind it. Just getting the unit itself over mountains is going to be a challenge. I am sure someone who has had one with that combo will chime in with their personal experiences.

brians1969 · June 04, 2017, 06:09 PM

Rick is exactly right. My d24 has a 318 and it is way underpowered! Think 1968 VW bus underpowered. :-)

Lukewarm256 · June 04, 2017, 09:45 PM

yeah, figured it wouldnt be a speed racer. I already know, from driving it as much as i have, that the motor home is not comfortable with speeds over 55--the gas pedal has to go down so far, i can WATCH the gas gauge go down on the 29 gallon main tank.

I towed a small truck (a 80s ranger) on a dolly with it once, a short distance (15 miles), up and down a few hills at about 50mph, other than the stopping aspect, i couldnt really feel it back there. When it went to stop, however, all bets were off (this, after i had redone all the brakes) Those old motor homes dont have the most fantastic brakes, so i KNOW i need a brake-buddy system for anything it tows in the future...

but i just dont want to to be way too much for it to legally handle. I found the picture of it's side panel

says front axel capacity: 3800
rear axle cap: 7500
with a 4.88 spicer rear end.

it has a MASSIVE old-style hitch, like, 3/4 inch thick steel welded onto the back end (i'll never get a receiver type hitch on there)

I suppose, flat towed, with a brake-assist, that something light (a small 2wd ranger, a vw beetle, or metro) would probably be within it's legal capacity for towing? none of those weigh more than 3000lbs, 2 of them less than 2000.

lookin to stay legal, and safe. Wondered if there was a way to find out the former.

strykersd · June 05, 2017, 09:03 AM

My 71 C20 Brave has a Chevy 350 in it and it's a dog, I couldn't what it'd be like driving the D22 with a 318 fully loaded. How many miles do you have on the engine? If you've considered a rebuild, you have the option of dropping in a rebuilt 360 to give you a little more torque.

Rickf1985 · June 05, 2017, 09:05 AM

Contact Winnebago, They will have the specs on it.

Lukewarm256 · June 17, 2017, 09:38 PM

Quote from: strykersd on June 05, 2017, 09:03 AM
My 71 C20 Brave has a Chevy 350 in it and it's a dog, I couldn't what it'd be like driving the D22 with a 318 fully loaded. How many miles do you have on the engine? If you've considered a rebuild, you have the option of dropping in a rebuilt 360 to give you a little more torque.

it only has 75k miles, it's strong as heck for the most part. The only upgrade i might consider, way down the road, is fuel injection and a conversion to a 4 speed auto (has the 727 in it now) for fuel economy (its averaging 7mpg now), could go to 9-10 with those, and 11 with a rear end gear changed to 4:11 from the 4.88 in it now).

I'll see about contacting Winnebago for more info--that's the best idea so far! thanks.

Rickf1985 · June 19, 2017, 09:41 AM

Any changes in gearing with the 318 motor will get you worse mileage, you just do not have the power to pull higher gears. Fuel injection will not give you more power, just more efficient use of what you have and that is not going to help. I know that is not what you want to hear but I don't want to see you spend a ton of money on something that has no chance of happening. It takes a certain amount of torque to move that amount of weight and a small block just does not have it and changing gears just makes things worse.

turbinebronze · June 19, 2017, 01:17 PM

I agree with Rick. My 318 in a 27ft Travco is spinning 3000rpm at 60mph, and has almost nothing to back that up! It loves to sit at 2500rpm (about 50 to 55mph). The money you spend trying to make a 318 more efficient will not be made up with fuel mileage savings or much more power.

Lukewarm256 · June 25, 2017, 11:37 AM

i can take advice. Messing with the rear end gears is something i can give up hopes on.

The one change that i think will come one way or another is the 4 speed auto. I've heard that there's a tranny from late 80's dodge trucks that is basically a 727 (my trans) with a 4th gear, or overdrive (that's electronically shifted). A little research a while back said that some one made a kit that it would shift automatically at the right pressures (since my 68 doesnt have a computer to shift an 80's trans, its a sensor kit to do it). I would NOT use that kit, and just keep OD on a switch i controlled. I think i would LOVE to have that 4th gear for the highway/freeway. The trans gear ratios are the same from 1-3 in both trans, but having a highway option at the push of a button for a few extra mpg would be nifty. So, it shouldn't do anything negative to either the gear ratio or the economy.

The fuel injection is just because its way simpler to deal with than that carb (that i have rebuilt once already). Sure, in theory, a properly adjusted carb does the same job fuel injection does, but, it wont STAY perfectly adjusted forever.... and, its NOT easy to start the thing with a carb when it's super cold, or it sat too long. Mostly a convenience thing, and a little bit of an economy thing.

But, i can rule out that rear end. It would totally eliminate the ability to tow anything, you're right.

On a note related to the original post, the legal towing capacity of the Winnebago through canada for me is 5k lbs (because of my 10k gvwr). Trailer brakes needed if it weighs more than 3k lbs (which most of the cars i would choose are way under). A break-away brake system is still required however.

Rickf1985 · June 25, 2017, 09:24 PM

If you look for a 47RH transmission from a early 90's pickup then you have your overdrive and without the computer. You would need to get all of the associated linkages from the donor vehicle. Again, you are looking at a .75 overdrive if I remember correctly and that will drop your rpms down into a range where the engine has no pulling power.
You keep trying to make a Cadillac out of a Yugo and it just ain't gonna happen. It is your money but I will tell you this, you can go out and find another Winnebago similar to yours that already has the 440 in it and then build one good one out of the two and do it for less money then you are looking to spend on all these mods that are not going to work.
Hey, it is your vehicle and your money. We are all trying to tell you it will not work but I guess you are bound and determined to find out for yourself.
If you want to drop the rpms down even more then go with the diesel torque converter on that 47RH transmission. You will have to change the input shaft to do so.

Lukewarm256 · June 28, 2017, 09:23 AM

Quote from: Rickf1985 on June 25, 2017, 09:24 PM
If you look for a 47RH transmission from a early 90's pickup then you have your overdrive and without the computer. You would need to get all of the associated linkages from the donor vehicle. Again, you are looking at a .75 overdrive if I remember correctly and that will drop your rpms down into a range where the engine has no pulling power.
You keep trying to make a Cadillac out of a Yugo and it just ain't gonna happen. It is your money but I will tell you this, you can go out and find another Winnebago similar to yours that already has the 440 in it and then build one good one out of the two and do it for less money then you are looking to spend on all these mods that are not going to work.
Hey, it is your vehicle and your money. We are all trying to tell you it will not work but I guess you are bound and determined to find out for yourself.
If you want to drop the rpms down even more then go with the diesel torque converter on that 47RH transmission. You will have to change the input shaft to do so.

And you're trying to make an argument that the old classic car should just be tossed and replaced for something newer. Ya can see how that doesnt work for some people, right? I love my 68, it's all metal outside, all sharp angles, all mine already. Yeah, its funky and weird, but when it's driving, it brings attention. If i upgraded to something Winnebago offered a 440 in, i'd have to move into the 70's, and those motor homes are just flat out ugly to me--past 72, i dont even like them. And by the time i buy another MH, spent all that money getting it road worthy and fixed, and tuned... well, why not just keep the classic i LIKE in the first place? Plus, i have style and memories...

The trans you recommended would be great, but overkill. I dont imagine i would need THAT strong of a one (rated to tow 19k lbs), and it costs 3 grand rebuilt. The little brother to it would be the A518, or the 46rh. Both (like the one above) would need either a push-button overdrive, or the pressure sensor kit ($250). Both bolt onto the 318, because they came off of a 318 (not a v10). Both have the same exact gear ratio as the 727 i have now, but, on the highway, i could make an attempt at using overdrive on the flats... now, i cant go above 50 mph without the engine screaming, and sucking almost a gallon a mile (that happens at 60) ... so, THAT is where i'd like the change. Picking up a used 175$ trans (or rebuilt for 750 locally) and throwing it in .. sure seems like decent idea... and ya know what, if overdrive is never used, literally nothing changes... just use 3rd, same 1.0 ratio as the 727.

I dont normally tow with the thing, its a small motor-home. Its smaller than a quad-cab truck, lengthwise. i can still park it in any normal parking spot at stores, like i would my truck or car... it's not a tower normally... so i'm not too worried about that. Like i said, finding out that it's limit is 5k, is actually fine. I'll probably never pull more than 2500 with it.

Rickf1985 · June 28, 2017, 09:03 PM

My argument was not to go with a newer vehicle but to find one of the same vintage with the bigger motor. Most of them came with the 440, or 413. And sorry about the 47, I meant the 46rh.

I have a 76 Jeep CJ, a 70 VW Beetle, A 53 Dodge M37 and a 64 Ford M151. I think I qualify for the old vehicle lovers club. And six more vehicles older than 20 years old.