Pressure hose from fuel pump to regulator

[Rickf1985]

I remember a while ago someone mentioned something about the hose from the furl pump fitting on the tank on an 80's  model had metric fittings on one end and standard on the other and was not available. I never remember seeing a solution to that. I am in the process of dropping my tank now and I am wondering what you guys have done for that.

Tried searching but fell  asleep looking through all of the possibilities last night. and I need to get back out there and get this done. I have a trip in three weeks.

[tmsnyder]

Isn't it all just fuel hose and clamps?

[cook elandan]

Not this will help much but I have my tank out now on my 89, the fuel line I have will connect to its self, so I think that the threads are the same. 

[Rickf1985]

Isn't it all just fuel hose and clamps?

Not from what I have seen and heard in some of the posts. It was a threaded pressure line. Just found out that the rubber 2" fill hose is 1.39 an INCH!!!!!! And it only comes in 3 foot sections!!! It was always pricey but DAMN!

[CapnDirk]

That was probably me and another person Rick.  I took mine into a hydraulic shop locally and they confirmed it was a b-stardo.  Made a new one for me with a new SAE end and the old Metric end.  Made it a little longer for me and I was able to move the pressure regulator out of the pocket in the frame rail to a place 8 inches away from the frame rail.  Regulator is now easily serviceable.

[Rickf1985]

That is exactly what I want to do. I keep a spare repair kit with me for the regulator but it does not good when you have tp peel open one wall of a compartment to get to it.

[cook elandan]

The hoses on my tank are...threaded pressure line to regulator, hose clamp for the return line, hose clamp for vent tubing to rear, ribbed fittings (2) for the evap hoses. for the evap hoses if you need to replace the rubber grommets(2) they are a mustang part number from the 80's

[legomybago]

Not from what I have seen and heard in some of the posts. It was a threaded pressure line. Just found out that the rubber 2" fill hose is 1.39 an INCH!!!!!! And it only comes in 3 foot sections!!! It was always pricey but DAMN!

yep....been there. I was able to buy it by the inch though....

[DaveVA78Chieftain]

Item 9?
P/N 15557722 (no longer available)

[CapnDirk]

Correct.  The lack of availability is mostly why I had another one made.  Unless that metric end rusts out, no reason not to just re-hose it with a new SAE end.


Rick:  Local shop did a 24" I believe with new SAE end for $23 last year.

Item 9?
P/N 15557722 (no longer available)

[Rickf1985]

Ok, Got the tank down far enough to see over it to make sure I was not going to rip something out. Getting the fill hose off was a nightmare. Found out that I only have two lines coming out of the tank that handle gas, the pressure line and the return line. In addition to those are two evap lines and a atmospheric vent out the back all coming out of various places in the tank. My generator ties into the return line up by the rear axle and crosses over to the other side and runs into a hard line back to the generator. The pressure line was jammed up against the rear heater line which in turn was jammed up against the plumbing drain  for the shower. You can see the indention in the hose in the picture, and the groove melted into the drain from the heater line. The red line in the last picture is the air line for the rear suspension. Most of the hoses were in good shape, only had to replace the 1/4" return line and generator feed. Will have to revisit this when I am done camping for the season to reroute the plumbing a bit to make room.
I have never seen a line from tank setup like this in any of the pictures I have seen on here. Always saw three or four lines out of the sending unit.

[CapnDirk]

Yup.  Got my tank out without hurting the fill line, going back in sheered it right off the tank.  Way too close.  That was one of the ideas about using the threaded rod to lower and raise the tank,  It could be put on a good angle without falling off a jack.

[Rickf1985]

Yup, the threaded rod idea worked out well, a bit slow and I did use a jack to help it along putting it back up. But the rods acted as guides on the way up plus I could stop at any point and run the nuts up to hold the tank and re position the jack. Had i running before bolting the tank in and have no leaks so I am hoping to be able to space the tank down a half inch to relieve the pressure on that pinched line and bolt it up today. Not sure if I will have enough room over the frame for the fill hose with the spacing but we will see. Yes, it is that tight in there.

[CapnDirk]

Good to know.  Is your gauge accurate?  Just a thought but I took my volt meter and tweeked the sender a bit for accuracy before putting it back in. 


Was the project just to change lines?


If any of us can say we got our tank in and out by ourselves, it's awesum.  Fender washers would work well for the spacing.

[Rickf1985]

2" wide by 1/2 thick steel bar cut to length for spacing. I want it to sit on the tank flange with the same contact patch as original, then I will space out the straps with the same material on the one side and lengthen the the stop nut on the other side. Could not work on it today, it rained all night and there was a huge puddle right where I needed to lay. I don't think I would be able to work the wrenches while treading water. Although it would not be the first time working in the mud. Years of four wheeling and associated breakdowns. The starter ALWAYS goes out in 10 inches of water and usually in freezing weather.

And yes, this was to check the condition of the hoses and replace any that were hard. I was surprised to find only the one that was in bad shape. I think this may have been done before but there is no way I can explain how it could have been done with the hose run over top of the heater line. It would have been almost impossible to run the line and senseless to do it that way. As far as I can tell my gauge is accurate, it says a little over a quarter tank and that is about what I guestimated with tapping on the tank. I don't know how low you can go without sucking air. You figure the tank is roughly 4 feet wide and 6 feet long by about 16 inches high. Even ten gallons in the tank is only going to be a couple inches from the bottom.

[Rickf1985]

And by the way, the fact that I am doing it completely by myself, WITH a very bad back is exactly why there are so few pictures. It is everything I can do to get the work done let alone get BACK under there to take pictures.

[CapnDirk]

Rick, think outside the box!  The puddle is a benefit!  You use one of those pool blow up loungers and it would probably coast around alot better than a creeper!   

[Rickf1985]

If anybody thinks the Capn and I are joking when we say these later models are tight here are some pics to prove it. I left the full size floor jack under there as a size reference for the tank. The shot between the frame and the tank? look very closely and you can see the fill hose and associated clamps we are talking about. On removal those clamps are pointing UP! They were installed before the body was built and I can tell you they are real interesting to get off. Notice the clearance between the suspension bag and the tank. In the little hole in the compartment, which I doubled in size by the way back when I needed to repair my pressure regulator, you can see the fill and vent lines and how close they are to the frame and body. Between the frame and the gas tank is so little room I actually got my fingers stuck at the middle joints and had to spray my fingers with WD-40 to get loose. Tight! And Damn! Looking at these pictures I now see where those two hose clamps are that are missing, on the gas tank fill fittings.  D:oH! They can STAY there for the next time. I got new ones.

[CapnDirk]

I don't know if Ricks is exactly like mine, but the fill hose goes through the frame rail and onto a metal 2 inch round and 1.5 inch tall metal part of the tank.  Now, there is about 1\2 inch between the tank and the frame rail.  Do the math, 1\2 inch clearance and something on the tank that's 1 1/2 inch tall.  Oh and when you get it up in there you have that 1/2 inch of clearance to tighten the hose clamp which is now about 2 inches above the bottom of the frame rail.


And the big what in the world! when I went to pull it was the hose clamp pointing up!

[DaveVA78Chieftain]

Me thinks this is why some may make a access hatch in the floor for access.

[Rickf1985]

Second picture down, look familiar? And the last picture is the hoses over the frame and below the body. No room at all there, the fill hose is touching top and bottom. You can see the clamps in that last picture but there is no way to get to them from there, only underneath through that 1/2" between the frame and tank two feet up. I made damn sure that all clamps are now pointing in a usable direction.

There is no way you could access that area from above Dave, it is under the wall where the hose connections are.

[CapnDirk]

Dave:  considered that as I've done it with a car, but it's not that effective if you have a basement rig.


Rick:  Yup, recognized it when I turned myself upside down