new fuel pump or not?

RickNC · August 23, 2017, 08:32 PM

I have a 95 warrior w/454 26,800 miles. feeling around the top of the fuel tank the hoses are feeling soft and gummy. I'm going to drop the tank and replace all the hoses. While I have it down I'm thinking of replacing the pump. The vehicle only has 26,800 on it but the pump is original and over 22 years old. What do you all think?

CapnDirk · August 23, 2017, 08:56 PM

Rick: I think my pump cost me $40 on Ebay. Considering the effort to drop the tank that you are going to do, the $40 and 15 minutes extra work is cheap insurance. You might look up info from myself and Rick about using threaded rod in the four corners to lower the tank. Doable with one person and a floor jack, less risk.

plockit007 · August 24, 2017, 12:46 AM

It sounds like a safe thing to do...Gummy Hoses..do they taste like Gummy Bears? Good detective work as our portable houses get older we have to replace parts.

I always dread having to do that to my Chieftain at one point. W%

Rickf1985 · August 24, 2017, 10:04 AM

I see you have a 23 footer, do you know what size tank is in it? Capn, keep in mind his is fuel injected so his pump will be substantially more money. I am a firm believer in if it ain't broke don't screw with it. The newer pumps will all be made in China and that pump in there will be a good old USA product. Your choice, but I would bet that the one in there will last longer than the one you will be putting in. JMHO.

MotorPro · August 24, 2017, 11:07 AM

Could not agree more!!!!

RickNC · August 24, 2017, 03:37 PM

Quote from: Rickf1985 on August 24, 2017, 10:04 AM
I see you have a 23 footer, do you know what size tank is in it? Capn, keep in mind his is fuel injected so his pump will be substantially more money. I am a firm believer in if it ain't broke don't screw with it. The newer pumps will all be made in China and that pump in there will be a good old USA product. Your choice, but I would bet that the one in there will last longer than the one you will be putting in. JMHO.

That is the dilemma, Is the older one better than the new GM pumps... My other option is to cut in a 8-10" deck plate through the floor and have access to the pump/sender assembly in case it ever does fail.

ErikTande · August 24, 2017, 04:39 PM

I'd vote for this option. Making things more serviceable is always a good idea.

TerryH · August 24, 2017, 06:09 PM

Quote from: RickNC on August 24, 2017, 03:37 PM

That is the dilemma, Is the older one better than the new GM pumps... My other option is to cut in a 8-10" deck plate through the floor and have access to the pump/sender assembly in case it ever does fail.

Personally, anything I do to mine - inside, outside, under etc. - I do with the thought of providing easier future access.
For instance I have a number of lights on the underside of the upper cabinets. Wiring runs in a false 'floor' between the outside bottom and inside bottom of the cabinet. Any repair in this area means removing all shelves and in some cases doors to access the area. The bottom inside is fastened with numerous staples. I removed those affected, cut the longer ones in three by length and screwed them back in. Any time I need access to the area I now only have to remove 4 screws and lift the panel out. Much easier and quicker.
There are a lot of things you can do when working in an area to make future access far easier.

CapnDirk · August 24, 2017, 11:38 PM

Quote from: Rickf1985 on August 24, 2017, 10:04 AM
I see you have a 23 footer, do you know what size tank is in it? Capn, keep in mind his is fuel injected so his pump will be substantially more money. I am a firm believer in if it ain't broke don't screw with it. The newer pumps will all be made in China and that pump in there will be a good old USA product. Your choice, but I would bet that the one in there will last longer than the one you will be putting in. JMHO.

In these days(and past) the OEM could have been China, Age is age in some cases, and I would not assume that a 20 plus year old fuel pump should not be replaced when it's easy to do so given the circumstances.

Thanks for reminding me of being more observant on what year the OP has.

dickcarl · August 26, 2017, 04:01 PM

I've heard that you can cut a 1' square hole in the floor directly above the fuel pump, and not have to drop the tank. You can get access to replace all those hoses too. But your wife will yell at you constantly until you put the pieces back in and fix the tile. Well, that's what I've heard.

Rickf1985 · August 26, 2017, 04:22 PM

And depending on what model you have you could have heat ducts or insulation between the floor and the tank so do your research before cutting.

beaverman · August 26, 2017, 05:40 PM

Quote from: Rickf1985 on August 24, 2017, 10:04 AM
I see you have a 23 footer, do you know what size tank is in it? Capn, keep in mind his is fuel injected so his pump will be substantially more money. I am a firm believer in if it ain't broke don't screw with it. The newer pumps will all be made in China and that pump in there will be a good old USA product. Your choice, but I would bet that the one in there will last longer than the one you will be putting in. JMHO.

I agree with Rick on this one, my son just replaced his on a 98 Silverado back in June, took a dump again 2 weeks ago!

RickNC · October 23, 2017, 08:01 PM

So this is the eventual solution I chose. I dropped the tank and cut a 7-1/2" x 7-1/2" access through the floor, which presented a problem because there is a 1 1/2 x 1 1/2 square tube floor stringer almost center over the fuel sender. I cut the tube and welded in a 1 1/2 angle from the stringer to the fuel tank support cross members at each end of the tank. The support isn't needed for the floor it is the outer structure that is cantilevered over the chassis frame. Easy 15 minute weld job with the tank out. With the tank out I epoxied around the hole I cut and then cut out a aluminum rim to support the hatch. I made the hatch from a scrap of marine plywood and then epoxied on a piece of 24g aluminum flashing. I brushed on a thin coat of 3m 5200 to make a gasket. After reinstalling the tank, I removed and reinstalled the sender to make sure the access is big enough.

I decided to keep using the original fuel pump assembly. I picked up a Spectre Fuel sender off of Amazon for $26 ( It was a return) works fine. I mounted an AC Delco pump on it, tested it and then boxed it as a spare.

Original fuel tank supply/return hose assemblies are not available. I made new ones using 6an stainless steel shielded hose and Earl's fittings $(80). The originals were 47 inches long, The ones I made are 36" since I no longer need to drop the tank to access the fittings.

Rickf1985 · October 23, 2017, 08:07 PM

Did you find that the fittings were metric on the tank end and SEA on the line end? I think that was a problem for getting a universal replacement. I like the lines you made up.

RickNC · October 23, 2017, 08:19 PM

Quote from: Rickf1985 on October 23, 2017, 08:07 PM
Did you find that the fittings were metric on the tank end and SEA on the line end? I think that was a problem for getting a universal replacement. I like the lines you made up.

No both ends were metric 16 x 1.5 on the supply and 14 x 1.5 on the return , I know it was a problem on the earlier models. On this one(1995) every chassis and engine fastener I have encountered so far has been metric.