Ditch Generator - Go Solar?

[tmsnyder]

Oh yeah, guess we did look right over your actual question!  Sorry about that


You could send the 120V output from your new inverter into the rv using the wires that the generator normally outputs into.  Couple things to think about though.


Powering by the generator wires may energize a relay which selects between shore power and generator.  So now you're powering a relay and losing amps to it. I guess you could swap wires around on the relay to reverse this action.


You have to make sure you unplug the original 12VDC inverter, so it's not trying to recharge the house batteries from 120VAC invertor power which is running on house batteries.  It will quickly turn your battery energy into heating the inverter trying to charge the batteries.


A much simpler option is to mount the new 120V inverter near the batteries to make those fat cables short as possible, then run a 120V 14ga (or better) extension cord back to where your shore power cable is.  Then just plug in to your 120V inverter.  It simulates being connected to shore power, even though it's really power coming from your 120V inverter.  And no relay is being powered, so no parasitic draw.


That's what I did in order to run a dorm style refrigerator in my RV.  We don't have the LP fired version, wish we did but the dorm fridge on inverted battery power works well.


The nice thing about this setup is when driving down the road, if it's hot the generator can be started and after about 10s the relay clicks on and disconnects from the shore power, then connects to the generator.   Then we can run the roof A/C without having to pull over and disconnect plugs or anything.  It's seamless.   Just need to remember to turn off the roof AC before shutting off the generator. 

[Rickf1985]

Mike, Most generators do not recharge the batteries. That is done from the AC power through the converter/charger. You will find that there is probably only a hot cable going to the generator for the starter and that is it. Once the generator starts it runs on it's own power, that is why if the generator is not putting out AC power it will shut off as soon as you let off the start button. Running an inverter off of a 200 watt solar system that yo will see a maximum of 150 watts from at best is probably not the best idea but I think at this point we are beating this to death. Ralph knows more about solar than all the rest of us combined and he has put in his thoughts on it.

[M & J]

Uh. Ok boss.

[Rickf1985]

My boss days ended with retirement.

[WrigleysBraveWin]

Oh yeah, guess we did look right over your actual question!  Sorry about that


You could send the 120V output from your new inverter into the rv using the wires that the generator normally outputs into.  Couple things to think about though.


Powering by the generator wires may energize a relay which selects between shore power and generator.  So now you're powering a relay and losing amps to it. I guess you could swap wires around on the relay to reverse this action.


You have to make sure you unplug the original 12VDC inverter, so it's not trying to recharge the house batteries from 120VAC invertor power which is running on house batteries.  It will quickly turn your battery energy into heating the inverter trying to charge the batteries.


A much simpler option is to mount the new 120V inverter near the batteries to make those fat cables short as possible, then run a 120V 14ga (or better) extension cord back to where your shore power cable is.  Then just plug in to your 120V inverter.  It simulates being connected to shore power, even though it's really power coming from your 120V inverter.  And no relay is being powered, so no parasitic draw.


That's what I did in order to run a dorm style refrigerator in my RV.  We don't have the LP fired version, wish we did but the dorm fridge on inverted battery power works well.


The nice thing about this setup is when driving down the road, if it's hot the generator can be started and after about 10s the relay clicks on and disconnects from the shore power, then connects to the generator.   Then we can run the roof A/C without having to pull over and disconnect plugs or anything.  It's seamless.   Just need to remember to turn off the roof AC before shutting off the generator.

Starting to better understand, Thank You!

[WrigleysBraveWin]

Per Rick, first move should be a battery monitor, so I'm going to have an electrician hook-up .... thinking about this model

https://www.amazon.com/TriMetric-TM-2030-RV-Battery-System-Monitor/dp/B06XRJNY76/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1505483933&sr=8-1&keywords=trimetric+2030

Are there other monitors I may wanna consider, please comment .....

After that is installed then we will monitor ....

Just wanna say, appreciate all the comments and thoughts everyone has provided!

[Rickf1985]

I don't have one yet, but that is the one I have been told is THE one to get, I am also curious to see the answers to this question.

[DaveVA78Chieftain]

TriMetric is the best standalone system.  Make sure to get the shunt with it.  If using the AUX START mode to start the engine, you will be drawing upwards of 400 amps through the shunt so, the 500Amp shunt is the better choice.

Some Solar controllers and high end inverter/converter units also have the usage functions built into them.

The TriMetric is a upper end battery monitor.  Other approaches:

https://www.amazon.com/Victron-BMV-700-Battery-Monitor/dp/B00MJ9TAN8/ref=pd_sbs_86_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00MJ9TAN8&pd_rd_r=7P8SFRWYFP0JP4WYM6NR&pd_rd_w=zbEUC&pd_rd_wg=mHine&psc=1&refRID=7P8SFRWYFP0JP4WYM6NR

https://www.amazon.com/DROK-Multimeter-Charge-Discharge-Electricity-Overvoltage/dp/B01M5CWR2P/ref=pd_sbs_86_4?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01M5CWR2P&pd_rd_r=7P8SFRWYFP0JP4WYM6NR&pd_rd_w=zbEUC&pd_rd_wg=mHine&psc=1&refRID=7P8SFRWYFP0JP4WYM6NR

https://www.amazon.com/bayite-6-5-100V-Display-Multimeter-Voltmeter/dp/B013PKYILS/ref=pd_sbs_86_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B013PKYILS&pd_rd_r=7P8SFRWYFP0JP4WYM6NR&pd_rd_w=zbEUC&pd_rd_wg=mHine&psc=1&refRID=7P8SFRWYFP0JP4WYM6NR

[WrigleysBraveWin]

TriMetric is the best standalone system.  Make sure to get the shunt with it.  If using the AUX START mode to start the engine, you will be drawing upwards of 400 amps through the shunt so, the 500Amp shunt is the better choice.

Some Solar controllers and high end inverter/converter units also have the usage functions built into them.

The TriMetric is a upper end battery monitor.  Other approaches:

https://www.amazon.com/Victron-BMV-700-Battery-Monitor/dp/B00MJ9TAN8/ref=pd_sbs_86_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00MJ9TAN8&pd_rd_r=7P8SFRWYFP0JP4WYM6NR&pd_rd_w=zbEUC&pd_rd_wg=mHine&psc=1&refRID=7P8SFRWYFP0JP4WYM6NR

https://www.amazon.com/DROK-Multimeter-Charge-Discharge-Electricity-Overvoltage/dp/B01M5CWR2P/ref=pd_sbs_86_4?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01M5CWR2P&pd_rd_r=7P8SFRWYFP0JP4WYM6NR&pd_rd_w=zbEUC&pd_rd_wg=mHine&psc=1&refRID=7P8SFRWYFP0JP4WYM6NR

https://www.amazon.com/bayite-6-5-100V-Display-Multimeter-Voltmeter/dp/B013PKYILS/ref=pd_sbs_86_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B013PKYILS&pd_rd_r=7P8SFRWYFP0JP4WYM6NR&pd_rd_w=zbEUC&pd_rd_wg=mHine&psc=1&refRID=7P8SFRWYFP0JP4WYM6NR

TriMetric Looks like BEST Choice, THANKS for input!

[MotorPro]

Trimedic or xantrex. Either one works great. As someone said make sure you get a 500 amp shunt.

[WrigleysBraveWin]

Trimedic or xantrex. Either one works great. As someone said make sure you get a 500 amp shunt.

xantrex looks a little more pricey, what advantage would it have over Trimedic?

For sure on the 500 amp shunt!

[MotorPro]

xantrex looks a little more pricey, what advantage would it have over Trimedic?

For sure on the 500 amp shunt!

other then being more compact I don't see an advantage. I bought it because I found one new in box on eBay for $75.

[WrigleysBraveWin]

Sweet Deal $75 ... Think I like the Trimedic, the square looks fits better than round in my Coach!