440-3 spark plug wires and oil filter

Lori jeffers · July 25, 2018, 03:42 AM

I have a 1977 Georgie Boy cruise air with a 440-3 engine. I am not a mechanic but I can do basics. Does anyone know the correct oil filter and spark plug wires? I would look at the existing ones but will be buying the parts before I get back to where the motorhome is. The best oil to run would be helpful as well (it has 77,000 miles)

Rickf1985 · July 25, 2018, 10:55 AM

I can't tell you the wires or filter but the oil that is best for the older motors is the diesel rated motor oils. Most people run the 15W-40 motor oil. I run Rotella oil myself in all of my older vehicles that have flat tappets (lifters). You definitely qualify in that respect. The diesel rated oils still have a higher zinc and phosphorous which has been removed from regular motor oils to save catalytic converters. Modern cars with roller lifters and computer controls do not need the extra high pressure lubrication for the lifters nor do they need the additive to keep the dirt in suspension so the filter can remove it like the diesel oils have.

skloon · July 25, 2018, 03:24 PM

I would order from Rockauto for the wires- can get really cheap oddly the last set I got had 9 wires plus a coil one

turbinebronze · July 26, 2018, 01:01 PM

Hi Rick,
I've read that the diesel oils have a reduced amount of ZDDP in them now also.
http://www.cam-shield.com/acatalog/diesel.html
http://www.enginebuildermag.com/2008/02/performance-oils-and-additives-got-zinc/

I found at Autozone that the 20w50 Motorcycle oils have an API rating of SJ, which is a much older blend of oil than the SM oils with the reduced zinc content.
Also, Brad Penn oil is an old blend. I've heard it's the old Kendall Green oils from long ago.

I'm not trying to show any disrespect here...Not intended. I have an 1947 Indian Chief that I ride all the time and oil is always a problem for me. (I run a straight 60wt in her). So I've had to do some looking around...

Just my 2 cents, Craig.

tmsnyder · July 26, 2018, 01:26 PM

I run Rotella 15w-40 diesel oil in my older gas an diesel engines, that first article you posted says it contains around 1100ppm whereas the minimum recommended is 1200ppm . I guess I'm not going to worry about a less than 10% decrease in the zinc. Plus they are trying to sell their zinc additive, so I'm not sure I'd put much weight in there opinion about Rotella not cutting the mustard.

If I had a 1947 Indian Chief though I'd order a few cases of Brad Penn! No sense gambling on something like that

Brad Penn is spendy though.

I ran Brad Penn for the start up and break in of the 327 I built for my 56 chevy, but after that I just use Rotella.

tmsnyder · July 26, 2018, 01:28 PM

I've heard people say to run Royal Purple full synthetic in these old engines too, but I don't think that has any zinc in it at all, I wouldn't do it personally.

Rickf1985 · July 26, 2018, 04:12 PM

What Craig is saying is true, they are reducing the amount of ZDDP in all of the oils. It is still better in the diesel oils that others but you also have the higher detergents in the diesel oils so if you have an engine that was not taken care of and it is all gunked up and then you start running diesel oil in it you are going to be breaking all kinds of stuff loose. Then again, that engine is probably already in bad shape. It is going to come down to having to add ZDDP additive to your oil of choice but that can be dicey if you don't know the exact amount that is in the oil from the factory. Too much ZDDP is as bad as not enough.

BamBam · July 26, 2018, 04:51 PM

If the motor runs but has tons of gunk in it, I have found that adding 1 bottle of tranny fluid to the oil for 100 miles, then drain will clean tons of muck. I did this with a gunked up /6. It made a major improvement in how it ran. On the zinc ZDDP issue, I have always used a can of STP oil treatment with every change on every vehicle I've ever owned, period. I have also never used a synthetic oil too. STP has zinc in it even though it may not be to whatever the industry standards may be? But it's never given me any problems. A question. If it's good enough to use in a race car, why isn't it good enough for on the street? I have always had success with the Motorcraft FL-1A oil filters on my Mopars. Any good quality auto parts store plug wires will work, I prefer NAPA myself. Good Luck

RCND · August 11, 2018, 08:28 PM

Howdy All:

FWI. Most parts houses now carry zinc additives. I am using 10w-40, it has a wider operating range with the additive.

45 years old with 120,000+ miles, no flushing or high detergents additives. Afraid the gunk maybe only thing keeping the oil in!

Take care.
Robert

Berlin-Tioga · August 20, 2018, 09:21 AM

Hi,
no Oil opinion here from me.

For the Spark Plug wires: after having burned the newly installed standard set after just one season, I ordered some -hopefully- good stuff:

https://www.moparshop.de/Online-Shop/Elektrik-Zuendung/11604/Zuendkabelsatz-BBM-8mm-Pro-Fit-Ceramic-schwarz-90/450

Although this is a German site, you will get the details.
The plugs ar all Ceramic. I hope they will stand the enormous heat around the exhaust manifolds much longer.

Greetings from Germany,

Ben

yellowrecve · August 21, 2018, 12:06 AM

I've had the ceramic for about 4 years or more. They are the best I have ever had, but one still gets too hot and cooked the insulation, even with a header boot on. I have header boots on the 4 beside the down pipes. On the one that is a problem, I made a 1 1/2" long extension (piece of welding rod with correct ends) that plugs onto the spark plug, it is bent away from the exhaust, then the wire plugs on to the extension. Fixed. No more "miss firing" and repairing wires every 500 miles. The after market exhaust manifolds are very fat on the down pipe. This winter I'm installing shorty headers. I have pair and there appears to be a lot more clearance.