Torque Spec 440-3 Valve Cover

LJ-TJ · April 20, 2019, 11:41 AM

Ok piece of cake, nothing to it, got it covered. What the

is the torque spec's on the valve covers on a 440-3? cork or rubber?

?? Hm? Thanks Mates.

Rickf1985 · April 20, 2019, 06:25 PM

1/4" drive ratchet and about that much but no more! Seriously I don't think I have ever torqued a valve cover or oil pan. You want to put some pressure on it but if the gasket starts to squeeze out then stop. And be sure to tap the dimpled holes back flat on the valve covers before reinstalling them. If you use a 1/4" ratchet and one hand then you can be pretty sure you will not over tighten them since it would take an obvious amount of force with the small ratchet.

legomybago · April 22, 2019, 11:47 AM

Cork gaskets are my go to, use some spray tack adhesive on the valve cover, stick the gasket to it and do as Rick said. After a few warm up cycles, I like to go over the bolts to make sure they are still snug because some wont be. It's also good maintenance to check your valve cover bolts for looseness every couple years, it's something I've always done anyway....Transmission pan bolts and valve covers are basically the same "feel" on torque.

Rickf1985 · April 22, 2019, 01:22 PM

Rubber gaskets will tend to seal better the first time with more room for error (as in you did not clean up the surfaces good enough) but they tend to not last as long as the cork gaskets. The key to having any gasket work well is preparation of the surfaces. Clean and dry. ALL old material removed. On the paper type gaskets like the timing cover and thermostat I will always use Permatex #3 sealant. On valve covers and oil pans I take on a "as I see it" basis as to whether I use the sealant. If I do use it it is a very thin layer and I watch the gasket closely as I tighten. Any movement of the gasket and I instantly stop tightening.

cosmic · May 25, 2019, 06:45 PM

I'm having to change mine every other season.. the damn things just leak after every long highway run of several hours... I think it gets so damn hot under the dog house that its bound to leak just a touch by the manifold causing the gasket get cooked to the point of crumble..
ive seen the manifold glowing at night after coming off the highway.. ive since richened the carb.. ( was lean) but that's where mine fails always and it seams to be the passenger side 90% of the time.. I would like to try the silicone ones if I ever find them.. the rubberized fiber ones from felpro just don't last me..

yellowrecve · May 25, 2019, 11:09 PM

Are you using the exhaust manifold gasket with the valve cover heat guard? My gaskets have lasted for a number of years.I clean the surface with Lac. thinners. Then use a "very" thin layer off silicone on both sides of the gasket and assemble. Finger tighten the the cover bolts. Let cure for 2 days, then snug down as Rick instructs.

Rickf1985 · May 26, 2019, 09:47 AM

Silicone is not recommended for valve covers since it is a lubricant and it can cause the gasket to squirt out from under the cover but the way you are doing it works since it allows the silicone to set up before tightening. Not something I would recommend but if it works for you then go for it.

I recommend the Permatex #3 sealer.

Sasquatch · May 26, 2019, 05:15 PM

20 in/lbs. I have been fighting VC gaskets on the 440 for 22+ years. I think I finally found the solution. I found some gaskets at Summitt that have a metal core and silicone rubber on each side. They seem to be sealing really well.

Elandan2 · May 26, 2019, 07:44 PM

I put those on as well. Only time will tell!!

cosmic · May 26, 2019, 08:27 PM

yes to the gasket heat guards.. will look into the summit silicone ones for sure... thanks

LJ-TJ · May 26, 2019, 09:42 PM

https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/mor-93055/overview/make/dodge Hm?

yellowrecve · May 27, 2019, 12:13 AM

Exhaust manifold gasket with heat guard. Fel pro ms90425. Summit has them with a picture.

Sasquatch · May 27, 2019, 11:01 AM

Yes, those Moroso gaskets are the ones. One other thing to think about and that is the exhaust manifolds. The way they wrap up and around the edge of the valve covers just cooks the gaskets. My leaks were significantly reduced when I went to headers. Not completely eliminated, but I went from changing cork gaskets yearly to 3-4 years.

cosmic · May 27, 2019, 09:20 PM

Thanks TJ

legomybago · June 03, 2019, 04:37 PM

I run these....

Elandan2 · June 04, 2019, 07:18 AM

Yes, but we don't have those manifolds!!

legomybago · June 04, 2019, 02:11 PM

These manifolds are hard to find

cosmic · June 05, 2019, 04:49 PM

are those not 440 pickup truck manifolds? if im thinking right the rv manifolds are so much thicker casting because the 44-3 engine works so much harder to pull the weight of our rigs.. this would mean they run hotter then the cars and pickups, they stay hotter longer as well.. So some engineer thought these would be a better manifold for our rvs..
how long have you ran those manifolds and have you done any long trips though hills and mountains to really test how hot you can use that big block with those thin walled manifolds?

if the answer is yes and I crack one ever again I will look for those....

and are those rear dumping or center dumping manifolds?

legomybago · June 05, 2019, 07:13 PM

The common factory "hi rise" 440 manifolds are the ones that are known to crack. The manifolds I am running came on mid/late 70's Dodge vans and class c motorhomes. They were only used on the right hand side I believe. Depending on what power steering pump system you are running you may need to do some mods, I had to modify my oil dip stick, manifold bolts are different, as well as the exhaust collector, it uses the donut style gasket and are center dump. I've climbed 9 mile 6% grades at 90 degrees out. Driven in 100+ degrees. My rig is a pusher and is also known for extreme engine bay heat issues. I've only put about 4k miles on them in the last 4-5 years, I know...lame...wish it got used more.