I HATE emissions places. They're monkeys.

ErikTande · July 12, 2019, 04:59 PM

2 years ago I got emissions done and it's time to renew and needed them again.

I took the motorhome home in to get smogged / emissions done today. The $#*&&* tech told me he needed a hard VIN plate bolted to the chassis or a dash VIN plate. I told him the vin is behind the drivers seat on the wall. He said that doesn't count, it needs a hard plate. (the wall one is laminated paper) Did they ever come with one?
Anyway, he tells me I have to take the motorhome to state inspection. I was like "screw that, I'll just call." So I call the state inspector, and he tells me the tag on the wall is fine if I have my previous registration and title. (I do). He tells the emissions place this (i handed them the phone), they still insisted they can't do it without the aforementioned hard plate, and that I have to drive downtown to the state inspector (even though I have him on the phone).

The state inspector apologizes to me, and says I can fill out a complaint form to have that stationed fined, but that I have to drive downtown to the state inspection office to do it.

I'm like,"how does that help me now? I need this smogged."Well, you could try take it to a different emissions center and see if they'll do it..."So you're telling me to drive all over town until I find someone who's not a complete moron?"
"um, yeah, or bring the RV down to the state inspection office and we can give you a certification..."
.........

Worthless.

Seriously. I hate the DMV / Emissions places. Talking monkeys. Did the motorhome ever come with a hard plated VIN on the chassis somewhere?

Elandan2 · July 12, 2019, 05:21 PM

Not sure about Fleetwoods, but Winnebagos have the "Chrysler Corp." plate somewhere near the radiator, viewable from under the "hood".

Rickf1985 · July 12, 2019, 06:05 PM

His is a GM but the same applies, it should be attached somewhere conspicuous to the chassis where it would be visible without digging. Check around the radiator support and around the electrical box areas. The plate should technically be attached to the original chassis as it was delivered to the coach manufacturer. So it "should" not be on the coach bodywork. Don't blame the guy from the State, He is offering you a way out and also a chance to stick it to that place. Those garages are contracted by the state but are not run by them. I don't know about your state but in NJ when you go to a garage you have to pay for an inspection but if you go to a state run place it is free.

DaveVA78Chieftain · July 12, 2019, 06:44 PM

On P10-20-30 models, the plate is attached to the front of the dash and toe panel to the left of steering column.

The attached picture was clipped from the Chevrolet Motor Home Chassis Service Guide available in the member area. Lots of useful info in that book!

BrandonMc · July 29, 2019, 09:43 AM

dude, is that the longmont emissions center? I take mine to the same place!!
This is new to me, they have always just done mine no problems. My vin is located on a "hard plate" on the drivers side door. I'd imagine they'd try to reject it too as it's simply a lamination. Does yours look like this?

Thanks for the hardcoded vin location, Dave!

BrandonMc · July 29, 2019, 10:08 AM

Quote from: Rickf1985 on July 12, 2019, 06:05 PMI don't know about your state but in NJ when you go to a garage you have to pay for an inspection but if you go to a state run place it is free.

we have what's called "air care colorado" It's a private company licensed by the state. Back when i was a kid, you could goto any garage with equipment if they had it, but now it all goes through this one company. With democrats in office, I fear someday they will make the entire state do emissions. Currently it's county specific, and if you sometimes live in a rural area, the emissions don't apply to the entire county.

ErikTande · July 29, 2019, 12:43 PM

Nope, this one was in Parker. I'm gonna try the Littleton one next when I get around to it. I need to figure out how to drop the tank and fix a couple leaks first.

BrandonMc · July 29, 2019, 01:38 PM

They likely build many with the same layout and floorplan, looks exactly the same.

Quote from: ErikTande on July 29, 2019, 12:43 PMI need to figure out how to drop the tank and fix a couple leaks first.

I use a redneck system where i attach a floorjack to a plyboard. Make sure to replace it all while down there. I dropped mine twice because I figured the lines that weren't leaking were okaay, but turns out they were kinda worse off, perhaps had a air leak allowing air into the system depending on pressures outside. I also had an o-ring missing on the high pressure fuel hose.

ErikTande · July 29, 2019, 03:48 PM

Quote from: BrandonMc on July 29, 2019, 01:38 PM
They likely build many with the same layout and floorplan, looks exactly the same.

I use a redneck system where i attach a floorjack to a plyboard. Make sure to replace it all while down there. I dropped mine twice because I figured the lines that weren't leaking were okaay, but turns out they were kinda worse off, perhaps had a air leak allowing air into the system depending on pressures outside. I also had an o-ring missing on the high pressure fuel hose.

Are there any special order parts or can I just run to the auto parts store once I drop the tank? Also, is it possible to do without jacking up the motorhome? I can gain a couple inches by driving up some wood planks, but that's about it. I'm also parked on rock so that doesn't help, but at least it's level.

BrandonMc · July 29, 2019, 04:00 PM

Quote from: ErikTande on July 29, 2019, 03:48 PM
Are there any special order parts or can I just run to the auto parts store once I drop the tank? Also, is it possible to do without jacking up the motorhome? I can gain a couple inches by driving up some wood planks, but that's about it. I'm also parked on rock so that doesn't help, but at least it's level.

I've been able to drop my 88 chassis tank on level ground without jacking the wheels up at all. All hoses, and holley regulator parts (if you want to look at the fuel pressure regulator diaphragm, maybe you should!!) should be available at the autoparts store. I had to order a high pressure fuel hose from a specialty muffler shop that does it, I made a post about it. But yours may not need it. Do you have an electric fuel pump in your gas tank?

Froggy1936 · July 29, 2019, 07:27 PM

Brandon The serial no plate you picture is not the Vehicles Serial No . It is Winnebagos serial no . The Chassis Mfg Serial no is on the chassis somewhere ! Frank

Rickf1985 · July 29, 2019, 08:40 PM

Frank, His chassis number is there too, It is listed as the Vin and the Winnebago number is the serial number. By the way Brandon, the Vin lists that chassis as a made in 9/87 model. And the coach as a 12/87 model/

I just noticed that you blanked out the numbers, I remember them from earlier when I was going to say something but I got side tracked. I am curious as to why people always blank out their numbers?

ErikTande · July 29, 2019, 09:49 PM

Quote from: BrandonMc on July 29, 2019, 04:00 PM

I've been able to drop my 88 chassis tank on level ground without jacking the wheels up at all. All hoses, and holley regulator parts (if you want to look at the fuel pressure regulator diaphragm, maybe you should!!) should be available at the autoparts store. I had to order a high pressure fuel hose from a specialty muffler shop that does it, I made a post about it. But yours may not need it. Do you have an electric fuel pump in your gas tank?

I don't think so. I have an electric pump inline about in the middle of the RV by the door.

BrandonMc · July 30, 2019, 10:41 AM

Quote from: Rickf1985 on July 29, 2019, 08:40 PM
Frank, His chassis number is there too, It is listed as the Vin and the Winnebago number is the serial number. By the way Brandon, the Vin lists that chassis as a made in 9/87 model. And the coach as a 12/87 model/
I just noticed that you blanked out the numbers, I remember them from earlier when I was going to say something but I got side tracked. I am curious as to why people always blank out their numbers?

I blanked it out on the image I uploaded due to a potentially unwanted situation. Who knows these days. I've had my daughters mother betray me in ways I could never understand, so putting out that information online for just anyone like the vin... who knows.

Quote from: ErikTande on July 29, 2019, 09:49 PM
I don't think so. I have an electric pump inline about in the middle of the RV by the door.

Sounds like an add-on after the fact? I was about to add one in that same location near the fuel filter before I solved my fuel delivery issues in a better way. Does yours have the mechanical pump too under the engine?

Rickf1985 · July 30, 2019, 11:28 AM

I think the manufacturer was putting the add-on pumps on the frame rail before they started putting them in the tank right around 1984. Then they changed over to the 1/2" fuel line from the rear to the front and put the regulator in the rear. THAT is the part I will never figure out. You put an electric pump in the tank to raise the pressure in the line to prevent boiling of the fuel and THEN you go and put a regulator right there at the rear and negate the entire effect of raising the pressure. Plus you add huge line so it can absorb even more heat!! When I drop my tank the next time I am redoing the entire system and I am moving the regulator all the way up front just short of the mechanical pump. I am also probably going to go back to 3/8" line at that point since there is no need for the huge 1/2" line. The engine can not use that much fuel and the electric pump will push the needed amount through the 3/8" line with no issues. This way if the electric pump were to fail the mechanical pump can still draw all the way from the tank, something that it cannot do with the 1/2" line due to the amount of vacuum absorbed by the smallest air bubble in a line that big negates the pulse from the fuel pump.