Mike's 1973 D22 Complete tear out. From the Roof down!

[Eyez Open]

I think your about to be tasked here... 

Yea..I am going in deep on this one..

One more thing on this ..The starter!!! It "Fits" on this side too  

Starter issues are no joke on some of the early 80's GM big blocks. There are three different nose cones and two different bolts. Metric vs SAE...part houses these days nor mfgs seem oblivious to this drama...it's well the book says....LMAO

[RockwoodMike]

Well..Here is the starter..Dirty and grimy as usual..

I spent all morning and a good part of the afternoon, tearing it down, cleaning, adding grease, checking it all and then put it back together..

Look at the rear of the starter..That aluminum end piece..About a half inch thick..Usually it is just a flat sheet metal there..That makes this starter longer than stock..

I installed it in and the headers would not fit..Because of that half inch..

I can't use the starter..

Maybe 440 source will fix it for me with this starter..Mopar forums seem to like it..Will see when it gets here..

https://store.440source.com/Premium-Light-Weight-High-Torque-Mini-Starter/productinfo/123%2D1000/

[RockwoodMike]

Here is what I did for that collector problem..Sliced the bolt and nut..Giving me about 1/2 inch..I think that will work..

Also I am going to reuse the original mufflers and pipes..Save some money not paying a muffler shop..Just fab it up myself  

[RockwoodMike]

I installed the right header...NOTHING went wrong..NOTHING!!!
I came in from below and it just dropped right on..It was scary easy..

No clearance issues..no notching..cutting..Nothing

This right side is done..Pictures show the ease of it all

Just for fun and giggles, I measured the center of the engine(the big bolt of the vibration dampener) out to the frame rails..left-right..

That engine sits 3/4 of an inch closer to the left rail.. Imagine if the engine was centered..I would not have to notch things..

I wish I had know this earlier

[RockwoodMike]

I seem to be finding more problems than fixing them..Just saw this today..

The transmission is rubbing on the floor support..I have not modified the engine or trans mounts in any way..This is how the factory did this..

Gotta fix it..Just need about 3/8-1/2 inch of drop..Elongate the holes to create a slot..Or make a custom cross member..
Kinda crunched my custom brake line

Sh t...

[RockwoodMike]

I need to drop that transmission down to stop it rubbing the floor support..
Here is how I did it..

Pic 1..Jacked up the transmission slightly and unbolted the frame cross member..Here is the cross member on the table..

Pic 2..After the center was cut and the new piece ready to be welded in

Pic 3..Location of the flat piece..This will drop the mount 3/8 of an inch..Dropping the tail of the trans away from the floor support..

[RockwoodMike]

Pic 1..Tacked and drilled for the bolts for the trans mount..

Pic 2..Fully welded and installed..Plenty strong..

Pic 3..Shows the drop distance..plenty of clearance..Need to check the brake line to be sure it wasn't damaged..

[RockwoodMike]

Time to get the valve train all cleaned up and installed

[RockwoodMike]

Pic 1..Got the right spark plugs with my order with Rock Auto..With the special motorhome heads, they need this plug..PO had the other plug in and it really didn't fit.But it ran with the wrong plugs..
Glad I got the thread chaser for the plug threads..Should run a lot better with these correct plugs.
RV9YC is the number..Also a RV12YC if you want a hotter plug

Pic 2..Got the new starter..Showing a size comparison..

Pic 3-4. Showing a weight comparison..Almost double

[RockwoodMike]

Pic 1..The hole it needs to go into

Pic 2..You still need to drop the headers off to get the starter mounted. The pipes of the header act as a cage around the starter..Can't get it in or out without dropping of the header..At least it doesn't hit the pipe..

Pic 3.After mounting the starter and installing the header back on..Little tight on clearances..I'll fix it..

[RockwoodMike]

With the condition of everything being grimy ..A soda blaster is the ticket..Makes quick work of cleaning things up

[Schmitti]

I know the "problem" with the spark plugs too 



Another good tip - try to get more space from the header to the starter. Use this space to build a heat shield in between. The new starter cannot handle this heat and will thank you for it   

Thomas

[RockwoodMike]

That is a big difference in spark plugs!! How did the original plug not just blow out the hole?? Looks like it only had about 3 threads holding it in..

Another good tip - try to get more space from the header to the starter. Use this space to build a heat shield in between. The new starter cannot handle this heat and will thank you for it   

I am working on that right now..

Picture one shows how the factory dented the pipe so the bolt could fit..

with the same idea shown in pic 2 and my handy ball peen hammer, I created some space and flattened the tube where clearance was tight..

Then pic 3 shows how a sheet metal shield could be wrapped around the perimeter and mounted to the 2 bolts..That should help deflect the heat..

[RockwoodMike]

Another problem The cable terminal sits so close to the engine that you can't get the nut off to attach the cable..

Pic 1 shows how tight it is..About 1/8th inch gap

Pic 2 shows the solution..seller on Ebay has this...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/303833501832

Ordered and on it's way..So right now I am in the "Hurry up and Wait" mode..

When it gets here, then work can continue..

[Eyez Open]

I know the "problem" with the spark plugs too 



Another good tip - try to get more space from the header to the starter. Use this space to build a heat shield in between. The new starter cannot handle this heat and will thank you for it   

Thomas

Well that's pretty much the long&short of it. Just another day in header installation land.

Great job!

[RockwoodMike]

Here is what I came up with for the heat shield..

Picture one shows the CAD software (Autocad 2000..25 year old software!) for the design..

Pic 2 The circle attach piece.. This plasma cutter cuts it clean. Not much clean up..

Pic 3..I cut a piece with no vents..Then another with vents..That the vents might aid in air circulation to cool..

Pic 4..Tack welded together

[RockwoodMike]

Pic 1-2..Mounted to the starter

Pic 3-4..Just a little more flatting of the pipe..That should do it

[RockwoodMike]

I tore down the alternator and cleaned it all up..Internally it look good..Brightened up all the contact points..Powder coated the mounting brackets

Pic 1-2 shows it all complete.. It was a Bosch rebuilt..Had the official sticker on it..

Pic 3-4 Starter with the custom heat shield is official in place..Headers are fully bolted in..Everything seem to have worked out..

Now I need to make the muffler system complete..That is going to be interesting

[RockwoodMike]

Just a reminder of where this all started..I have come a long ways..But a long ways more to go  

[LJ-TJ]

I've said it before and I'll say it again "AMAZING". I've already learn tons. Seen things that wouldn't have crossed my mind. Worked through things I would have thrown up my hands at and quit. All because of things I've learned from YOUR adventure. Your blog or what ever this is called is like a Saturday Matinee at the movies following a Flash Gordon serial. I'll bet many race home from work each day can't wait  to see what you've accomplished for that day. Keep up the good work mate your doing a terrific job. PLUS as if you didn't have enough on your mind. You might want to consider at the end of this trip. Putting it all in a book. I would be the most comprehensive book ever written on the "Restoration" of a Vintage Winnebago. Well done, Keep up the great work.     

[RockwoodMike]

Thanks LJ-TJ!! Just got to stay motivated..

Posts like your keep the motivation up..  

I installed the valve train..rockers, lifters etc..

Here are the pics

[LJ-TJ]

Hey Mike, You've bitten off a chunk. Most guys would do the body. Most guys would do an engine. Most guys would have done a tranny. All major projects. You Sir have taken them all on at the same time. WOW! That's monumental. You got a lot of folks out here pulling for you. You may single handedly be saving unknown numbers of old classic Winnebagos from the scrap yard. You'll never know the number of lads you have rejuvenated, re-inspired to go back out to the back yard and restart their projects. Your amazing. You can do this. We're all pulling for ya.

[Eyez Open]

LMAO I once stated bat chit crazy, I said that with the up most respect. The enormity is mind bending and a one man show.

To that end one day he will look back and smile...yep I actually did that with a broad well deserved smile.

[RockwoodMike]

Taking a deep dive into the driveshaft assembly..

All the U joints need to be replaced..Never seen a u joint with the retaining cir clips on the inside of the joint..

Pic 1..full length 2 piece drive shaft with a center bearing

Pic 2..Took a cap off..dry and worn out..All 3  were in rough shape..

Pic 3..Measure the diameter of the cap..1.23

Pic 4..Measure the distance on the inside with inside retain clips.. 3 inches

[RockwoodMike]

https://www.moog-suspension-parts.com/universal-joints-ujoints.asp

Moog website has a page that you can search with the above measurements..

Turns out to be a Moog 304

Rock Auto has them at the best price I could find..

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=387695&cc=0&pt=2392&jsn=967

And the center bearing assemble..Might as well do it all..

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=220680&cc=1101407&pt=12743&jsn=4314

After all this, everything will be right..