Mike's 1973 D22 Complete tear out. From the Roof down!

Started by RockwoodMike, September 25, 2019, 11:43 PM

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RockwoodMike

Ready to install the fuel line from the spin on fuel filter to the Carb..Using 8 AN fittings..8 AN is suppose to be 1/2 inch, but effectively it is 3/8 for the final hose size..No problem with 3/8 for fuel ..

Pic 1 and 2..need an adapter to change the hose bib filter housing to 8AN..With this adapter, you lose the ability to have a filter at the carb like stock..So some other fuel filter is needed.

Pic 3.. Mounted to the carb..

Pic 4..Fit the fitting to the line
The best mechanic is the one that can make it run with the least amount of parts!

RockwoodMike

Pic 5 when you open up the outside sheath skin, put a bolt down the line..Protects it that way..

Pic 6..Knurl installed

Pic 7..Insert fitting..

Pic 8..Tighten it together..Done
The best mechanic is the one that can make it run with the least amount of parts!

RockwoodMike

Attached to the carb..

Attached to the spin on fuel filter housing..
The best mechanic is the one that can make it run with the least amount of parts!

RockwoodMike

Working on the propane under floor pipe..New pipe through out with custom made hanging brackets..

The old pipes were basically just laying on the frame hanging some what and probable rattled loudly as it moved down the road.

Not any more..All hung tightly and secure to the frame..

Check that off the list..
The best mechanic is the one that can make it run with the least amount of parts!

RockwoodMike

More pictures..All finished..4 things to feed propane to..Water heater..Cook top..Refrigerator..HVAC heater..
The best mechanic is the one that can make it run with the least amount of parts!

RockwoodMike

Here is my original plastic rear wheel inner thingy..what ever it is called..
It is broken..As everything else is..

Time to make it all new!! :)clap  :P  :)

Pic 1..Plastic inner thingy..Looks like either someone stepped on it..Not possible  because it is inside the cabinets..Or a tire blew and broke through the top..

Pic 2..Replace it with metal..16 gauge to be exact..CAD designed and CNC plasma table to cut the parts.. :cool:

Pic 3..Clamping together 4 inch C clamps

Pic 4..Looking good!! 
The best mechanic is the one that can make it run with the least amount of parts!

RockwoodMike

One of the pieces for the inner fender being cut and the final result..

Yea!! I am just showing off :cool:  :cool:
The best mechanic is the one that can make it run with the least amount of parts!

LJ-TJ


RockwoodMike

What I am really jealous of are these welders that can weld like they are doing open heart surgery ..Laying down these perfect beads like a "stack of Dimes"..

I can weld it for strength, but I will always need the grinder to clean it up..

here is the first fender..All welded up..time for the grinder and then I need to get some of that rubberized inner fender coating..Something good and thick to finish it..

The other fender tomorrow
The best mechanic is the one that can make it run with the least amount of parts!

RockwoodMike

Have the fenders all made..2 coats of rusty steel primer..Rustolium ..Ran out of paint..
The best mechanic is the one that can make it run with the least amount of parts!

RockwoodMike

I bought a battery cable terminal crimper on Ebay..Chinese import :rolleyes: It was junk..First it came damaged but the main reason you should not get one of these, is the anvils that it comes with..

It has metric sizes, that must match AWG for it to work right..But they are usually too tight or too loose..

Enter a fine American Made unit(I think it is) but the anvils are designed for AWG wire sizes..A lot more expensive, but it works great..

Here is some pictures doing a 1/0 cable..Fine job..

Link for this...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/281746224039
The best mechanic is the one that can make it run with the least amount of parts!

RockwoodMike

The under coating for the new fenders..Looks like something to fix the leak of your house roof..Brush on with a chip brush..Looks pretty durable :)
The best mechanic is the one that can make it run with the least amount of parts!

RockwoodMike

Rear fenders final..All done with them.. :)clap
The best mechanic is the one that can make it run with the least amount of parts!

RockwoodMike

I am going to start on the dash and everything under it..

Pic 1..The heater box..Cleaned it all up and rewired it..Has 2 speeds..everything checks out..Mounted to the floor with heavy brackets..

Pic 2-3..Front engine shroud..been sitting outside since I removed it back in 2019..Sand it down and apply some Rustolium on it
The best mechanic is the one that can make it run with the least amount of parts!

RockwoodMike

I have some Rockwool insulation..1.5 thick..about 6R for the insulation value..

Maybe I can use it for the inside of the shroud..That would really quite things down..

Pic 1..shows a small piece inside..I think this might work out..

Pic 2..Just laid up the shroud in place..It has been so long, couldn't remember how it fit..

Pic 3-4..Inside the shroud..Look like the insulation would be fine in there..

This rock wool is totally fire proof..It is actually made from molten rocks..

You can set a torch to it and it will not burn..
The best mechanic is the one that can make it run with the least amount of parts!

Eyez Open

Have you given any thought to drafting your engine bay/doghouse area? Cast headers really trap a lot of heat in the engine whereas tube's very effectively send heat down line..meaning that engine bay is going to get 🔥

I've not spent to much time on that issue, to busy with scraping tape and plumbing new propane lines. But after seeing zMM's 86 header install cost and ease it's time to take it more seriously.

RockwoodMike

Quote from: Eyez Open on October 02, 2024, 01:04 PMHave you given any thought to drafting your engine bay/doghouse area?

No not really..But I sure am now..Looking over the old photos of this. you can see how a air dam was installed above the radiator..And it made all the incoming air to be forced through the radiator..

Was that a good idea??..My first thoughts were that the engine,carb area including the exhaust manifolds get no air except for the hot air from the radiator..

If I left that dam out, air would flow less through the radiator and more over the top of the engine..Making the intake area cooler..

I think I am going to leave it out to open up the air flow..
The best mechanic is the one that can make it run with the least amount of parts!

RockwoodMike

Pic 1..Shroud all painted like new

Pic 2..Fitting the Rockwool in ..Marks easily with a carpenters pencil

Pic 3..And cuts easily with a razor blade..Abut 3 draws each deeper and it is cut

Pic 4..Drilling holes through the shroud for screws and washers
The best mechanic is the one that can make it run with the least amount of parts!

RockwoodMike

Pic 1..With some long 8-32 screws and small washer..Tighten the screw to the shroud..

Pic 2..Then with a fender washer and locknut it secures the Rockwool tight..

Pic3..All the other pieces made and secured down
The best mechanic is the one that can make it run with the least amount of parts!

RockwoodMike

Looking inside from the front..That should really make a difference in heat and noise..
The best mechanic is the one that can make it run with the least amount of parts!

RockwoodMike

I think this big sheetmetal dohicky is next..What a rattle trap!! It is secured to the heater box with plates and screws..But on the left side(driver) it just sets on top of the shroud I just installed..Bouncing loose up and down..It needs to be secured down..

Tomorrow..
The best mechanic is the one that can make it run with the least amount of parts!

RockwoodMike

Looking over the old pictures of the rip out..This heating plenum just sat on top of a piece of carpet.. right on the sheetmetal stand..So it could bounce around..

Yea!! :shocked:  :P
The best mechanic is the one that can make it run with the least amount of parts!

RockwoodMike

So many details to work out..Here is a new one..

With the freshly installed engine shroud, it is next to impossible to see the timing marks to time the engine..Right now the only access is through the right fender well..But with a tire and rim installed, I am not sure if you can see it then..
So I made something...

Pic 1..Here is the best shot of the timing marks..set on zero TDC..

Pic 2..Looking up at the engine from below..I cut a slot the best I could do between the 2 pan bolts..

Pic 3..Then with Autocad I made a degree strip..I measured the diameter of the vibration dampener..that give a circumference..and then with that length divide by 36 and you get 10 degrees..Printed it out on label sheets..It is sticky but not permanent..

Pic 4..then made this plate with the marker that mounts to the 2 bolts from the pan..I can see that real well..
The best mechanic is the one that can make it run with the least amount of parts!

RockwoodMike

Here is a screen shot of Autocad..of the plate then cut from my CNC plasma..
The best mechanic is the one that can make it run with the least amount of parts!

Eyez Open

When you transfer that temporary tape plz do not forget the powder coat.  I