Aftermarket Renogy 1000W Inverter not producing power.

[Ericb760]

PO installed a 300W solar panel with controller and a 1000W Renogy inverter connected to the two TV outlets. Everything was working fine until they weren't. Inverter powers on, but there is no power. A quick check shows my house batteries at 14.3V, and the chassis battery is dead (I knew I was going to have to replace this, I just haven't gotten to it yet.). Renogy website says to power it off for 5 minutes and turn it back on to reset it. That didn't help. The outlets are still dead. Any ideas?

[Rickf1985]

Sounds like an output breaker or a bad circuit board. Is the cover removable? If so disconnect it and take the cover off and look for any fuses or breakers. Also look for any scorched marks on the boards.

[Ericb760]

Renogy says there are no serviceable parts inside and to turn it off, wait 5 minutes, and turn it back on, which did nothing to  solve the problem. Solar controller says I am at 100% SOC at 14.3V. I have power everywhere except the two TV's, which are powered by the inverter. I'm thinking the inverter has gone bad even though it powers on and off.

[ClydesdaleKevin]

Renogy says there are no serviceable parts inside and to turn it off, wait 5 minutes, and turn it back on, which did nothing to  solve the problem. Solar controller says I am at 100% SOC at 14.3V. I have power everywhere except the two TV's, which are powered by the inverter. I'm thinking the inverter has gone bad even though it powers on and off.

Probably a bad inverter.

Kev

[Rickf1985]

Renogy says there are no serviceable parts inside and to turn it off, wait 5 minutes, and turn it back on, which did nothing to  solve the problem. Solar controller says I am at 100% SOC at 14.3V. I have power everywhere except the two TV's, which are powered by the inverter. I'm thinking the inverter has gone bad even though it powers on and off.

Of coarse they will say that, they want you to buy a new one.     I am the type that is inquisitive and if the cover is removable I am going to look in there and see what I can see. I have found so many times it is nothing more than a bad solder joint or even a blown fuse and the unit is back in operation. If you are not comfortable with electronics then don't do it. The only answer at that point is to buy a new one. I would love to have a crack at that one, would you be willing to put it in a flat rate box and send it to me? If it is completely sealed and you can,t get into it without breaking in then that is a competently different story. Then throw it in the trash and buy a new one but get a brand name one with a warranty.

[Ericb760]

Of coarse they will say that, they want you to buy a new one.     I am the type that is inquisitive and if the cover is removable I am going to look in there and see what I can see. I have found so many times it is nothing more than a bad solder joint or even a blown fuse and the unit is back in operation. If you are not comfortable with electronics then don't do it. The only answer at that point is to buy a new one. I would love to have a crack at that one, would you be willing to put it in a flat rate box and send it to me? If it is completely sealed and you can,t get into it without breaking in then that is a competently different story. Then throw it in the trash and buy a new one but get a brand name one with a warranty.

I'm going to try a few more things before throwing in the towel. I am not totally unconvinced that my dead chassis battery may play a part in this as I was reading the inverter manual it says that it will "beep" every 30 seconds when it senses a low battery, which I did hear a few times before it went dead. I'll keep this thread updated as I learn more.