LPG System Recon

Pimp Wagon · April 07, 2021, 04:54 PM

When we looked at PW before purchase the seller was able to demonstrate the water heater, stove, furnace and refrigerator without issue which was good. Turns out after getting down and dirty and checking it out after purchase that that funky odor in the van was not the toilet flapper seal but every LP fitting leaking confirmed by bubble testing. Remaining LP of course leaked out and when we had it inspected by Big Box RV of course they said they could not test the system as is was out of LP and they could not fill it cuz the tank had not been certified recently. Knowing now that ASME tanks are fixed and do not require certification, I still get why they wouldn't want to fill a potentially leaking system in their shop. I've poked around locally and have not found any leads on someone that can really get this done on an older system correctly..... any direction would be much appreciated... thanks Bill

Oz · April 08, 2021, 05:54 AM

That is a difficult situation encountered by owners with that set up.
I'm thinking maybe consider seeing if converting to a standard set up is possible?
Hm?

Winningbago · April 26, 2021, 02:47 AM

Oz are you suggesting converting all his LP appliances to typical electric? That cost would be very high...

PW, LPG is very basic. You said you confirmed leaking fittings using bubble testing. Have you tried tightening them? LPG fittings are brass and self-sealing, you are not supposed to use teflon tape or other thread tape, just metal-on-metal with these. If you have a leaking fitting just tighten it... you've already confirmed the appliances work.

Also, use flare nut wrenches as they are less likely to deform the fittings when tightening. Using a standard wrench could deform your fittings.

Oz · April 29, 2021, 01:45 PM

No, not saying convert to all electrical appliances. I said to a standard set-up. By your description, it sounds like you have a single, under frame tank. It's nearly impossible to find any place that will mess with them. So, an option is to update the tank system. Either new, under frame (if there us such a thing) or twin, upright tanks, or twin horizontal tanks.

As for leaking fittings anywhere else, there's no other option than to fix them.

Pimp Wagon · May 25, 2021, 08:32 AM

My apologies for the radio silence and thanks for the replies. Since the system is out of LPG currently now after leak out, we have been focusing on mechanicals 1st and move on to systems like this after we get the mechanicals together. Wheels and tires done. Currently in shop for leaking rear axle seals, bad brake drum cylinders and the mechanic is just gonna follow the mechanicals up to the engine. Gonna get a Turbo 400 RV tow kit installed as part of this mechanical visit as well. Engine should be ok as it has a 400 SBC Crate motor with about 3.5k miles on it. I have experience with flare fittings and understand that tightening is in order likely. Will definitely get a flare fitting wrench. I hear and appreciate the upgrade to a modern tank system but it rubs me the wrong way to scrap something that is functional that just needs maintenance but get that getting it serviced with the original tank set up out on the road may be difficult. Thats why we upgraded from 16.5 to 17" wheels. I suspect slapping a certification sticker on the tank would likely get it serviced (even though ASME tanks do not require certification). A tank upgrade sounds expensive. Any ball park figures out there?

Oz · May 25, 2021, 10:41 AM

For having someone install a single tank upgrade - ballpark figure.
Between $$$$ and $$$$$... give or take $.

Rock3tman · May 25, 2021, 04:40 PM

I've got a 1986 Chieftain, model 22RC. I replaced the original rusty, out-of-certification, tank with a Manchester #6828, 14"x40" that i bought off an RV supply place on the internet for about $650.00-$700.00. Installed it myself by purchasing some galvanized steel L-angle, either 2x2 or 3x3 - can't remember - , and 3/16" thick, that I bolted to the original Winnebago mount holes and also matched up with the tank mounting stanchions. No movement at all, it is stout!!

All-in, including new regulator, grade 8 bolts, washers, lock wasters, nuts, hoses, etc = ~$800.00. YMMV.

photos to follow in a week or so.
regards, Rock3tman

tmsnyder · May 25, 2021, 10:31 PM

In the GMC community, there are some people that have removed their LPG tank and are using a pair of 20 lb tanks instead. They are easier to get filled in some parts of the country apparently.

tmsnyder · May 25, 2021, 10:34 PM

My understanding was the tanks in RV's didn't have any inspections/certifications, other than when they were new.

Find a different place to get it filled. I like getting mine at the Reservation near me.

Pimp Wagon · May 31, 2021, 10:59 AM

Thanks for the info on the replacement Rock3tman. This is probably in my skill set to do as described and may do this if I go the replacement route. Still though my tank is not corroded or in anyway damaged and is fully functional. Likely as other have said I can address my leak problem by tightening fittings but its frustrating the miss information on inspection requirements on these tanks (not aware of any inspection requirements as tmsnyder notes) and potential of it being hard to get refilled out on the road as a result. Still have some time to think on this as I'm still sorting out the mechanicals.

Winningbago · November 03, 2021, 05:52 AM

Since the tank was empty, and if you have the ability to unhook and lower it, it wouldn't be that difficult to sand it and then spray paint it again. I've heard many old RV owners doing that. These are lifetime certified tanks so it's really just a visual inspection and if the person chooses to refill it or not. Surface rust doesn't affect the structural integrity of the tank.