83 Holiday Imperial refresh

[Eyez Open]

It was quite an experience, that's for sure. Riding a bicycle? Well, sort of. Everything is working well right now, although there was a slight lean pop/backfire on the startup. Just a touch of enrichment on the idle circuit took care of that. The choke setup was straightforward, and the self-tapping screws in the kit were perfect. They were tapered and created an ideal tap.

True to form, just like 40 years ago, I managed to snap the housing adjustment cover. That was a significant issue for me back then, and it still is. Such is life!

As for timing recurve, as they call it today, it used to be referred to as a tune-up. It's funny how many elaborate terms they use now. Below is a good example of timing a carbureted HEI engine; this is just part of the process. The relevant section starts at about 24 minutes, and a significant part of that video features Morris making notes about the spark plugs.

https://youtu.be/5KuGe5UXYAs?feature=shared

[Oz]

I wonder how much the person gets paid to rename things. I want that job. Lol@

[Eyez Open]

I wonder how much the person gets paid to rename things. I would love to have that job! Lol.

I agree, Oz. Below is a thread that goes into detail about what was once known as a tune-up. In the past, it was just a standard part of vehicle service. Interestingly, Lars discusses what I refer to as combustion efficiency, noting that a Quadrajet can be as efficient as, or even more efficient than, EFI.

Take a close look at the commentary below, particularly regarding the idle mixture screws. They significantly affect higher RPM air-fuel ratios (AFRs), as well as torque and net horsepower gains, ultimately impacting fuel economy.

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c3-tech-performance/4703199-rebuilding-joserpaq-s-1980-q-jet.html

We're now down to test-and-tune time!

The vacuum ports on the carburetor were capped off, and the carb was mounted on the test engine with the idle mixture screws set to six turns out from being fully seated. My test engine is very similar to Jose's engine, utilizing the same cam, comparable heads, and a set of headers. The carburetor bowl was filled with fuel, the electric choke was hooked up, and the engine fired up instantly on the first hit of the starter. Here is a snapshot of Jose's carb running on the test engine:

Running cold with the choke closed and then cracked open by the pull-off:

The air-fuel ratio numbers indicated a slightly rich condition, which suggests that too much fuel was flooding the main metering system during high fast idle with the closed choke. The fast idle was set to 1,250 RPM.

I allowed the engine to run until the choke fully opened:

...and then let it drop off fast idle. As the idle mixture dropped to 18:1, the engine stalled. A quick pump of the throttle got it running again. I increased the idle speed and began to back out the idle mixture screws. At nine turns out, the idle mixture reached 14.5:1. When I raised the RPMs and moved the carb into a 2,700 RPM "cruise" mode, the light throttle cruise mixture registered at 10.5:1. The throttle response was excellent and very snappy, but this mixture level is not acceptable.

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**For comparison, consider the following information:**

9.2 Air and Combustion

The theoretical concentration of oxygen needed to achieve complete combustion must react with all the carbon in the combustible material, which refers to the fuel. The air required to achieve this is known as "theoretical air" or "stoichiometric air," depending on the chemical composition of the fuel and its feed rate. The feed rate is expressed in volumes or mass per time, such as liters per hour (L/hr) or kilograms per hour (kg/hr).

The ideal combustion process—stoichiometric combustion—burns the fuel completely. The gap between stoichiometric combustion and incomplete combustion defines the percentage of combustion inefficiency (see Fig. 3.8 in Chapter 3). Therefore, at or above the theoretical air level, the process is considered 100% efficient. To avoid products of incomplete combustion (PICs), particularly carbon monoxide (CO), excess air is typically added.

The concept of excess air or excess fuel for a combustion system is based on the stoichiometric air-fuel ratio, which is the precise, ideal fuel ratio required for effective chemical mixing. For safety reasons, to prevent explosive conditions, alleviate fouling, and mitigate high temperatures, combustors are designed to achieve "on-ratio" combustion. This typically requires a known amount of excess air, often 10%–20% above the expected stoichiometric air value (1). Fuel-lean mixtures contain an air content greater than the stoichiometric ratio, while fuel-rich mixtures contain less.

[Eyez Open]

Moving on to other topics, I've been quite impressed with the fabrication of this Holiday Rambler build. It's built to last and made with high-quality materials. However, one aspect—the entryway door—seems to have been an afterthought. The frame is very sturdy, but it's clear that they merely skinned the door with lightweight aluminum. After that, they filled it with foam to provide some support. Unfortunately, on this RV, that method has proven to be ineffective—the door skin looks like it has seen better days. The latch has worn out, and the window frame is brittle and fractured.

So, it's time to bring out the angle grinder for a new look. The old door insert measures 26×70 inches, while the new door will be 26×72 inches. I need to cut and raise the frame by 2 inches. Since I don't have welding equipment, I will screw the cross brace back into place, as it doesn't carry any significant load—hopefully, that will be the case.

 
 
 

[Potatochip P30]

Hey there,
Been awhile and just checking in on your progress, looking good... but the door !
Man does that look like a project lol. But agreed the door was an after thought on these, even though we are vastly different coaches there is a ton of HRC incest of parts going on.
Finally reworked kitchen counter with stone coat epoxy, new plank floors, 4k inverter and working on a mini split AC install. Hopefully end of summer we set sail somewhere.

[Eyez Open]

Hey, long time no see! Yes, things are progressing nicely. This door is very simple to replace, and using an angle grinder to cut things is the best method. However, removing the old silicone sealant has become a major issue. I've never seen a sealant adhere with such tenacity; I wish I knew what type it was, as it would make a fantastic sealant for roof repairs—unparalleled, in fact.

Potato Chip, you need to start your own thread. The exchange of ideas, processes, and products is invaluable. A mini-split is on my to-do list—it's an absolute must. As for inverters and converters, the solar industry really makes things incredibly complicated!

[Potatochip P30]

Yeah I am going to do that eventually, unfortunately it will have more narrative than pictures as I always forget to take the "before" or the "in the middle of" pictures.
Right now I have semi permanently mounted a Sungold Power 4k inverter with 2) Chins 200ah plus batteries and have run the Coleman pig of an AC for 2 hours so far with plenty to go. I figure 3 hrs and with the split ac those numbers will bet way better.The goal is to use the inverter to run the AC while driving instead of running the genset ( no dash ac).

As far as Carburetors - I am still fluent in "carburetor" and know my way around power valves, squirter pump cams and 4 corner idle circuit tuning (Holley).... After running the Holley Sniper kit that was a game changer especially with a 488 SBC with a large cam and single plane intake on the street.  Program in a few details of your build and drive it. Little stiff @ $1500 but it comes with fuel lines, pump wiring... Basically everything you are going to replace from the fuel tank fwd anyways.

[Eyez Open]

Once upon a time, I experimented with MEFI, the marine version of OBD/TBI. At first, it seemed quite interesting, but it quickly turned into something quite different—like an electronic squirt gun. Tweaking a Quadrajet is second nature to me since I grew up in a GM garage. Between Lars and Ruggles, they make the process simple and affordable. However, dealing with a low vacuum engine and a single plane intake can definitely lead to some frustrations with a carburetor.

Your views on air conditioning align closely with mine. The AC units on my rig, including the old compressor that is now gone, are quite expensive with very little return on investment. Speaking of new technology, I've installed a tankless water heater, which is a significant improvement over the old tank-style units.

[eXodus]

Right now I have semi permanently mounted a Sungold Power 4k inverter with 2) Chins 200ah plus batteries and have run the Coleman pig of an AC for 2 hours so far with plenty to go. I figure 3 hrs and with the split ac those numbers will bet way better. The goal is to use the inverter to run the AC while driving instead of running the genset ( no dash ac).

I got a 3000W Inverter and 2x 24V 200AH Chins which are running the Roof A/C no problem for about 5-10 hours. Even without sun. 

[Eyez Open]

Right now, I have semi-permanently mounted a Sungold Power 4k inverter with two Chins 200Ah batteries. I've run a Coleman air conditioner for two hours so far, and there's still plenty of power left. I estimate I could run it for about three hours, and if I use a split AC, those numbers should improve significantly. The goal is to use the inverter to run the AC while driving instead of relying on a generator since I don't have dash AC.

I have a 3000W inverter and two 24V 200Ah Chins batteries, which have been running my rooftop AC without any issues for about 5-10 hours, even without sunlight. 

The rooftops are quite peculiar; my front rooftop AC is rather weak and draws enough power to trip the breakers. I purchased a cheap $120 5000 BTU window unit from Walmart, which never trips the breakers and effectively cools the front room. The rooftop unit is old but quite powerful; I believe it's an old Coleman Mach 3 that both heats and cools.

I would have installed a mini-split system by now, but I don't like the layout of the condenser. If I can find one that lays horizontally, it's a done deal. Setting up a solar system is still a work in progress... lol. I'm pretty sure I'll leave that task to my son.

[Eyez Open]

The door is finished,I had to screw the horizontal support for the door on, more than enough to to support the door. The RV has very large vertical beams for door support..almost 8' 1/4"  inch thick aluminum  beams.

I used 5/8 foam insulation sheeting and FRP sheets  from homedepot. Glued the two together with 3m 77 spay adhesive to create a new wall. Cut the door to fit, once again used 3m adhesive to glue it to the frame and its done...a little paint and better than new.

[Eyez Open]

Spring is here and almost time for the first road experience. Some house keeping is required first. Gauges this time, the cluster seemed dead. The below video really helped me re enable the package. These gauges are very simplistic..not to much can go wrong with them aside from light corrosion and a 90 watt ceramic resistor. This resistor is no longer made so junk yard diving seems to be in order here.

A thread that covers most everything one could ask.

https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=640615


https://youtu.be/Bq3YfCLq4So?feature=shared

[RockwoodMike]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/355386776442?itmmeta=01HTWRAHMP90BN58DQ4M33Z3P5&hash=item52beb3db7a:g:BAcAAOSwel5lp4SA&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA4Bm2e4bP0P6THmw4zH0RAmIJLfrgvF40goGMLzo2l5dEj8g8ypSsRawjXK96TxXFlCtw1ZU8YPhtRiqD18oUhoVPR%2BVC8TKGDMBBM9A%2BuBGmfvQVqLAqC1xCdtsb4Rqm%2B8BoES4hNZXtTv%2BU4STlWTvhcU%2Fw9uH%2F%2BR5FzSW81I35ct6LQ4jkASro0EQ3R%2B8eXog%2BqQgJGFOrxHrATmODGjazPPAZxdETdYdyL5c8Yca4braQJDxT5zCu4nkaTJhRKIc%2FOZsa6O44OEu%2F3iSla7Za9%2FDUM73cjcAJhxRCDJCN%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR7iaqpjXYw

Any way you could use some sort of resister like this..I am very weak when it comes to electronics

[Eyez Open]

That makes two of us! I often feel frustrated when dealing with electrical issues. Then there are the junkyard bandits—though it's important to note that not all of them are troublesome.

I have a solution in mind, but I am trying to restore everything to its original condition first. A fully functional dashboard could sell for around $200, and I've been seriously considering a digital dash as well. A $200 gift might just be the push I need to make a decision—only time will tell.

To accomplish what I need, I can use two 180-ohm, 5-watt resistors in parallel. This configuration will give me 90 ohms and a power handling capacity of 5 watts.

https://youtu.be/LRQU7chppLg?feature=shared

[RockwoodMike]

You are on your own on this one..I have never done anything on GM products..Other than crush them when I was working at the wrecking yard!

[Eyez Open]

Absolutely, I completely understand. I was raised in a GM shop, and that was many years ago. Personally, when it comes to RV servicing, I don't experience much inhibition. However, my greatest fear when working on a vehicle is not knowing how the outcome will be; with a GM, there are only so many possibilities.

As for Mopar vehicles, I'm familiar with the "crush it" theory. Honestly, I get a headache just looking at some of those components. When I saw the recessed combustion chamber in that 440 engine, I was shocked! Speaking of which, I came across a video about those features. If I can find it again, I will share it—it's really interesting stuff.

[Eyez Open]

I've finally dropped the propane tank for a inspection and reconditioning. I can hardly believe it's size, 80 gallon capacity. 6 1/2' long and 20 inches in circumference. Absolutely incredible.

[RockwoodMike]

That thing is Gigantic

with your toes in the air, it looks like you passed out on the ground

80 gallon tanks are what propane companies set up at houses..not motorhomes!!
I guess it is empty..Maneuvering that thing would be very difficult if it was full