Winnebago stripe replacement

Started by RV-Ron, December 11, 2008, 09:41 AM

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RV-Ron


Sent: 9/27/2003 8:58 AM

My '84 Winnabago Chieftain has faded and cracked stripes (vinyl); but excellent fiberglass.  Anybody know where to buy replacement stripes?  Alternately, I've been thinking about removing the existing stripes, and either painting new ones--or getting a bit fancier with painted curved graphics similar to what we see on newer, larger motor homes.

Has anyone painted over this type of fiberglass before?  It isn't a typical gel-coat, as found on boats and many newer exteriors; it seems to be a little coarse.  Any suggestions on the type of paint to use?

I've learned that 3M makes a wheel (similar to a buffing wheel) that makes removal of decals and stripes fairly easy--but it may take some time. 

jbrt1989


Sent: 9/28/2003 6:00 PM

I don't know about painting, but, I've used "Goof Off" several times over the years to remove things like stickers, etc.  I don't know how well it'll work on something older like that, but, it might work.  It takes some elbow grease no matter what you use.

Jeff

Sea Hag


Sent: 10/7/2003 12:20 PM

I just called mobilty RV Parts last friday  www.winnebagoparts.com   have all your winnebago numbers from the winnibago identification sticker ie model # and winnebago Vin  ect.  ready . I called several other Winnie dealers looking for a owners manual for my 76 chieftain with no luck .... this place can get it no problem . he told me to get my Ident # and he can get me most of coach parts for my D23C from Winnebago . the online catalog isn't very helpfull so call . phone number on this link - SeaHag

Beatty1950


Sent: 10/7/2003 2:16 PM

As far as the stripe, I use the non-stick masking tape and paint brush with durarust type paint.   Looks good from 10 feet away.  Good enough for my 28 year old D19.

Dave Beatty

Tacklebox2


Sent: 11/25/2003 10:16 AM

I had the same problem with my 1985 Winnebago Chieftain.(Faded and Cracked).I didnt remove the old one's.I looked into new ones but to much $ for me.All I did was cleaned them real good and painted over them.
Allot of tape and 4 coats of paint.Used a good latex outdoor house paint.Turned out nice!..:)Good luck.As allways leave no trace...

Oz


Sent: 2/7/2006 8:52 PM

I sanded and cleaned the stripes thoroughly and used Dupli-color automotive spray paint off the shelf and trimmed the edges with black body tape.  Looks great!
1969 D22, 2 x 1974 D24 Indians, 1977 27' Itasca

moonlitcoyote

I was thinking of sanding my stripes before I have them painted, but they have huge gaps in them where some has peeled off and the guy that is going to paint them for me said that even with 4 coats of auto paint the cracks will still be visible. So I am looking for a way to remove the stripes without scarring the fiberglass or leaving residue. A PO had removed one of the W's and painted it with what looks like house paint and it looks terrible. You can see either glue, left over sticker or scarred fiberglass under the paint.

ClydesdaleKevin

We have to replace the stripes on ours someday too, since they are cracked and separated and fading and whatnot.  We pulled into a place last winter in Arizona that specializes in RV striping, and the owner came out and literally groaned when he saw our RV!   :)rotflmao

He said he'd do it, but he HATES working on old Holiday Rambler striping since its so much hand work to remove the old stripes they used in order to do it right, remove every trace of old striping, and do it without damaging the paint on the smooth aluminum skins.  And if you look at pics of our rig, the striping is very involved and complex! 

He said heat guns, hand scrapers and window scrapers were the order of the day, since solvents would eat the paint away from the aluminum.  I know he wasn't lying about this one, since Goof-off removed some of our paint when I was getting rid of duct tape residue left by the previous owner.

Based on the amount of worked involved, his quote of 2200.00 bucks wasn't unreasonable, but WOW that is expensive!

We decided to hold off on it, and if we decide to have him restripe it but remove the residue ourselves and all he has to do is install the complex striping, the cost dropped to 400 bucks if we wanted it all original, reflective stripes and all.  Less than 200 bucks if we wanted all one color, even if it was a fade.

Its all about the labor!

Only good thing was the cost included free camping in their lot while they worked on it, which they estimated would have taken a week.

Kev
Kev and Patti, the furry kids, our 1981 Ford F-100 Custom tow vehicle, and our 1995 Itasca Suncruiser Diesel Pusher.

joanfenn

When I did ours, I used the rubber wheel attached to a drill and it came off quite well.  Cleaned up some residue that was left with acetone.  Then repainted the stripes with tremclad.  I think the whole thing looks great and probably cost less than 200.00 for everything. 

eddie

You can always just make your own on a plotter like I did!! I like the old flying W better than his original "Brady Bunch"! lol-John





www.apexautospa.com

Check it-Boom

LJ-TJ

Amazing the restoration job you did on the old girl. It's an inspiration to those starting out and what can be done. Well done mate.

moonlitcoyote

I wish the Homebago was aluminum, I would just strip the stripes, paint and all and have the whole thing repainted. But the only metal on her is the roof. It is so difficult for me to find time but as soon as I do I am going to search google for some sort of filler to fill the cracks with then paint over it all.               

Oz

Available at any automotive store and WalMart in the automotive section:
Fiberglass repair putty.  It has a can of thick, green goop and a small tube of red hardener.  Mix on a piece of cardboard or anything, use only a little hardener because it'll dry really quick if you use too much. 

Use the plastic spreader and "wipe" a real thin layer of the filler across the entire area, then, after it's dry, dry sand it by hand.  This isn't labor intensive and it won't take long at all.  You're just using the fiberglass goop to fill the cracks and sanding off the excess.

You'll have plenty left over to use for any other repairs or fill you may need.  I've used it on ton's of non-fiberglass repairs and modifications as well.  It dries fast, hard and sticks like glue.

You can primer over the areas and away you go!
1969 D22, 2 x 1974 D24 Indians, 1977 27' Itasca