Roof Sealants, repair and replacement options

bagodriver26 · February 28, 2009, 02:02 AM

Sent: 3/7/2007

I have decided to seal my roof with a roll on type elastomeric sealant. I want as many of you to respond with the best product recommendations. Please I want to use the best product out on the market!! Thanks
Bagorider

Oz · February 28, 2009, 02:02 AM

Sent: 3/8/2007

If you don't have the time, money or gumption to replace your roof, then Kool Seal & Eternabond tape, the 2" wide with aluminum on it is the way to go for a long lasting maintenance make-over. I dont' think it really matters whether you paint or roll your coating on, except for the time factor. I put the roofing tape around everything that sticks through the roof, then used a 2" brush to paint over it and the edges onto the roof. Then, I rolled on a coat. By the time I had gotten to the back of the roof, the front areas were dry and and there rest drying quickly. I gave it about an extra hour, then repeated the entire process. Painting around the vents, etc, and then rolling on the main coat.

And since we're rapidly and happily closing on "our" season of the year, and more folks are likely thinking, "yeah, I ought to go up there and see if it's time for my roof too." I guess it's about time I posted my re-roof coating photos!

bill_never_paid · February 28, 2009, 02:02 AM

Thanks SOB!

Sounds like I need to go it, corners-vents, and roll on what I can then go over the whole thing again. Makes sense to me. But I doubt my 1Gal.+ lQt will do my 20' roof both times may order another gal and have enough first time around.

Bill

Oz · February 28, 2009, 02:03 AM

Sent: 3/8/2007

I used 2.5 gallons to cover my roof with 5 coats.

The_Handier_Man1 · February 28, 2009, 02:03 AM

Sent: 3/8/2007

I used about 5 gallons of undercoat and 5 gallons of roofing. There is a local company that wanted me to use their product on some commercial roofs so I tested it on Wilburs roof. You can see pictures at http://groups.msn.com/ClassicWinnebagos/wilbursnewroof.msnw?Page=3 The first coat was with the fabric they make inbedded in it over new 1/2" plywood. But SOB, do I really need the tarp over it inside the garage to make it last? Les

bill_never_paid · February 28, 2009, 02:04 AM

Sent: 3/8/2007

Wow was that great; looking at the way you did that roof. Handier man also sent in his photos but I would doubt I would need the "Undercoat" unless I replaced the roof (fingers crossed)>! I bought the same sealer but the tape I have purchased is Kool patch patching take--not exactly--not going to take a chance against something that is proven to work---buy the stuff tomorrow.

Thanks guys
Bill

ohhmom · February 28, 2009, 02:04 AM

Sent: 3/9/2007

Ok Les
We are very impressed...especially my husband...so where did you buy this stuff to coat the plywood...and what type of fabric did you use...and was the fabric just for the joints...or what. I really did love the pictures...just need to know a little more on how you sealed the sides.was it just with the sealant coat...or what...and did you lay anything else on the plywood before using the two buckets of stuff on it. Yes I know I need some clarification...just consider it a womans perogative...Please!!!!!
Thanks for sharing and we hope to try it also.

Also,,,,did you remove your entire roof first ...or did you just lay the truses over the existing roof?

Thanks!
Donna and Alan

ClydesdaleKevin · February 28, 2009, 02:05 AM

Sent: 3/9/2007

On the Ark (which had a roof in VERY rough condition...leaking at the seams, sagging at the AC, full of pinholes, etc.), I used Kool Seal...the kind made for RV roofs that says you only have to coat it once every 5 years. It has held up remarkably well, is quite durable, even walking on it, and 2 years later, she still didn't leak.

For the seams I used Kool Seal seam sealer...in a caulking tube...and then, after the 7 coats of Kool Seal dried on the roof, I sealed off all the seams again, and around the vents/etc. with silicone.

I've never used Eternabond, but everyone in here that has used it has used it to great success...they say it even forms around screw heads and seals them. So, its great to use around seams. Personally, if there are screw heads and other rough/non-smooth areas to seal, I'd use the silicone, or the A-lex that Tom recommends.

On the 77 Itasca, the roof is one piece of shiney aluminum, with no seams at all. Its just one giant sheet of aluminum/thermopanel. When you use Kool Seal on bare aluminum, make sure you prime it first with Kool Seal primer...one coat will do it. Also, and this is imperative: AFTER you scrape all the old coating off the roof (hopefully you are luckier than we were with the Ark...it took us DAYS to scrape off the old layers (sometimes an inch thick!) of old fibrous silver and black tar-like roof sealer that previous owners had piled up over the years!), make sure you clean it with TSP...the REAL TSP, not the enviro-friendly non-phospate kind (which doesn't work)...don't worry, washing your roof once with it won't hurt the fish or the ground water! After you clean it all, if the aluminum is bare and not painted, prime it. After its primed, seal the seams with your choice of either Eternabond or Kool Seal seam sealer (NOT silicone...Kool Seal AND Eternabond won't stick to it!)...and then coat the roof with at least 5 coats of Kool Seal...the household kind is fine...its the same formula, just not as thick, and since you are using multiple coats, you can save a LOT of money by buying it in a 5 gallon pail at Lowes.

After you coat it, seal all the seams again with Eternabond or silicone or A-lex, and then seal around every vent and screw and bold with the same.

Good luck! I'll be coating the roof of the Itasca myself next week...thankfully its a desert vehicle, and its roof was never coated by a previous owner...and its never seen any rain until it got out here to Florida!

Kev

bill_never_paid · February 28, 2009, 02:05 AM

Sent: 3/9/2007

Mbrs--
Just took a quick look @ camping world at ETERNABOND and it is $65.00 for a 4"X37' roll of this stuff

Is that about right?
Bill

Oz · February 28, 2009, 02:06 AM

Sent: 3/9/2007

You don't need the 4"~! It's overkill. The 2" gives you 1 full inch on both sides of the seam to be covered. I got a 25 ft roll for $45 from PPL Motorhomes. It may be more now. They also carry repair kits for fiberglass, holding tanks, bath tubs... rubber roofing and a complete line of everything else.

http://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/caulks-sealants-adhesives-repairs-1.htm

I'm looking around and I don't see the 2", just the 4". But, you can always cut it in half, lengthwise, which is probrobly very cost effective. Although, the stuff is tough to cut through because the gray sealant is very, very sticky and thick like peanut butter with thickener added.

To clean it off areas and cutting tools, use brake parts cleaner or gasoline.

More info here:

http://www.structuralmaterials.com/Eternabond.htm

AHA! Found it! Look here:

http://www.eternabond.com/detail.asp?id=ebas

And a correction on the lenght I got... it was 50'. I got 2 rolls and had plenty extra. You can also get the "Miracle" tape which carries a lifetime guarantee. It's also on that last link.

bill_never_paid · February 28, 2009, 02:07 AM

Sent: 3/9/2007

Thanks SOB

I ordered 2 --2" rolls direct from eternabond. Like you said that should be enough. Also have another gal. of Kool Seal coming along with a gal of primer. That should do it thanks for the help. Also figured out the PAYPAL thing Will keep these 2 "E" mail in file

Thanks again
Bill

The_Handier_Man1 · February 28, 2009, 02:07 AM

Sent: 3/9/2007

I used the seam tape on all seams between plywood sheets and around vents and on edges of the roof. The roofing I used is from an Oregon company and we in Oregon know about rain, but it might not be available very far from here. They even have some new products that say are for RV's. I used an undercoating and snow seal over it.
Here is the stuff I used, http://www.amesresearch.com/roof_coatings.htm You can see a picture in my album of the two cans of what I used. Les

JDxeper · February 28, 2009, 02:08 AM

Sent: 9/30/2007

I'm getting ready to seal and tape the roof. Questions:

A) Will the eternabond tape stick to fiberglass? The 78 Brave has a fiber glass capover the wind shield.
B) Should I pull up the metal strip and re caulk the seam between the fiber glass and the roof? Its a real mess now but will clean up!.
C) Is Sta-kool mobilastic ok as a sealer?
D) Should the roof ha a primer before sealer. Metal on roof now shines.

tiinytina · February 28, 2009, 02:08 AM

Sent: 10/4/2007

Eternabond and roof sealers will stick to almost everything as long as its clean. The easiest to do is to simply take a bucket of dishwashing detergent and water and just scrub like he** . Rinse then park her in the sun to thoroughly dry. If your roof is really really shiny you could just lightly rub it with steel wool enough to just barely scratch it before putting the kool-seal down.

I did Gone's roof last year and will repeat this year.. I washed and scrubbed her good and let her sit for a week (no rain).... I slopped paint on with a brush around anything that stuck out, vents, antennae etc. and rollered the rest. Took me 2 gallons to do 28' 3x really well. Expecting this year to do 1 gallon and 1+ coats heavy around vents etc.....

tina

Beatty1950 · February 28, 2009, 02:08 AM

Sent: 9/17/2003

Well with the first hard rain, I noticed an area inside the cabinent near the stove had wet towels. Since I know that I had not used towels for a shower lately, I assume that I have a leak.

I prefer to fix this problem using a process that will not have to be re-done for years to come.

I seen a product called "Eternabond." Is this the best? Expensive stuff. But I want to do the repair once, so that is ok.

Has anyone gone to a professional to get roof re-covered ?? Is so, what sort of cost is involved ?

What other ideas are out there to fix up the roof ??

Thanks in advance for the help.
Dave Beatty

DaveVA78Chieftain · February 28, 2009, 02:09 AM

Sent: 9/17/2003

Most anywhere I have traveled on the net always seemed to have rave reviews for Eternabond. I have not had to use it yet though so no first hand experience. Several here have though. As far as professional, that's typically expensive if you can even find someone willing to do a home that is greater than 10 years old. Most here are DIY using sheet edpm rubber roofing or liquid edpm or elastomeric coatings. Several here have done this. I used elastomeric (kool seal) to fix some leaking sections I encountered. Liquid, well a paste actually, is messy and takes a little while to dry so make sure no rain in the forecast for a few days.

Dave

denisondc · February 28, 2009, 02:09 AM

Sent: 9/17/2003

And if your roof has leaked enough for water to get in noitceably, it probably hasn't been really dry inside for months or years. Though mine doesn't seem to leak now, I presume I will have to do an entire roof replace eventualy, and I intend to make it crowned up a couple of inches, and will cover it with an aluminum skin. I would hope to make it so I could just replace the aluminum skin each 5 to 7 years. I would like to make the structure moisture permiable, so running a dehumidifier inside a few times a year, -like after hurricane isabel- would dry it out. And when I retire - I definitely plan on having a roof over the winny!
All of you folks in the path of hurricane isabel - I advise making sure your winny is tilted a few degrees, so water will run off prompty. denison

DaveVA78Chieftain · February 28, 2009, 02:09 AM

Sent: 9/17/2003

You might want to consider a fiberglass over plywood roof vs aluminum Dave. It is a feasible alternative. Maintenance would be less and fiberglass does not corrode. It is not really that hard to work with especially in a flat/crowned situation. The plywood provides the strength, the fiberglass the sealing. You could always hide it with sheet or liquid rubber roof to maintain original looks.
Dave

Marksbestfan6 · February 28, 2009, 02:10 AM

Sent: 9/22/2003

I took and pressure washed it with Rv wash to get the most of the grime & old sealant out of the seams once I got it cleaned I took a putty knife & got all the sealant that was left in the seams then on close inspection I seem alot of little pin hole in the aluminum roof so I got some dura glass (chopped fiber glass for body repairs) & patched the hole with it then got some top grade calking from Manards name brand was Water Shield & done the seems got rubber vent pipe boots for the plumbing vents(2) then sealed them with water shield & put a new air conditioner seal in under itwith water shield on the outer edges of the seal then got some fiber rv & trailer roof coating & applied 2 coats but when you use this stuff it needs 8 hours of drying time before dew can set on it & don't for get to seal the rain gutters but when I done my project I had the awning & rain gutters off so I could peal up the roof to install new ceiling!

Dave-Pam1 · February 28, 2009, 02:10 AM

Sent: 10/29/2003

I replaced the roof on my 73 about 4 years ago using the firestone commercial non-re-enforced rubber(edpm). I replaced the front 2/3 of the roof and raised it an extra 1/4" where the air con. sets. I glue it down with the recommended yellow glue (contact cement). I used one sheet and covered the old section as well. I got new vent flashings and a new plastic refer vent cover at the rv store fairly cheap. I had a shop to do it in so I took my time, but it was a pretty easy job overall. If you don't have any major damage now you could clean your existing roof and raise you air con. some and glue the rubber with out rebuilding anything.

David

Sea Hag · February 28, 2009, 02:10 AM

Sent: 10/30/2003

David Where did you get the rubber roof material ? What was the cost , I have seen some kits on the web was it one of those ? I want to do something like that on my 76 D23C , it seems like the way to go . -Sea Hag

Dave-Pam1 · February 28, 2009, 02:11 AM

Sent: 10/30/2003

I got it from a commercial roofing company in Seattle that has a foreman that's a friend of mine. I only used a piece 10' x 22'.(The rolls come in 10' wide x 100' lengths) It was only worth about $10.00. The 5 gallon bucket of glue cost me $50.00. I used a roller to apply it. I glued and screwed my sandwiches of plywood and 1" styrofoam, so I used over half of the glue. I also glued my 4' x 8' sheets of ceiling material inside. I don't remember the cost of the incidentals.

David

james · February 28, 2009, 02:11 AM

Sent: 11/3/2003

The water that ponded between the unit roof and the awning ran inside thru the roof and down inside the cabinet wall thru the bottom of the cabinet to the light fixture over the table and onto the table.I am thinking now that the other two leaks near the front and another at the rear bed might have been related to the same thing. This awning when in the storage position is just above the roof leaving a trough that catches water, with the unit parked level it collects and stores a large amount of water.I usually never park a rig being stored level.
James

Lefty · February 28, 2009, 02:11 AM

Sent: 11/3/2003

I have seen leaks travel through walls and follow seams for several feet before. As a side note, in the glovebox of my Chieftan there is a reciept for a new roof,a/c unit,and new ceiling. the previous owner had the work done in 1996. Total cost of the repair was $5286.79 tax included. The materials weren't that expensive at only $1864.39 . including a new Coleman mach 3 . The major cost was the labor. So doing the job yourself can save some big bucks on this type of repair. Also, while the roof was off, they added two additional roof supports (one on each end of the A/C unit) they look like 1x2 box tubing, and go from the floor up the walls, to the ceiling, then across to the other side, then back down to the floor. Underneath they are bolted to the metal floor support bracket coming from the frame. This (hopefully) strengthens the roof at the a/c so it wont sag and collect water. I think the shop did a good job on it as I can service my a/c unit and walk around without any give at all. Maybe you could fabricate something like it for yours. Lefty

james · February 28, 2009, 02:12 AM

Sent: 11/3/2003

I have a 1974 also,purchased from the son of the original owner. When new he had the dealer remove the a/c unit. Then had two pieces of 3/16 thick by 1 1/2 angle placed across the roof, and secured.The angle sits flat and up facing each other. He then had the a/c unit reinstalled sitting on the angle and not the roof. NO SAG,,,after 30+years and 141,000 miles
James