Roof Sealants, repair and replacement options

[moonlitcoyote]

I finally have the funds to do something with my roof. It doesnt leak that I know of but the silicone caulking a PO put on it is starting to come off, so time to fix it up. I am extrememly confused though on which eternabond tape I should get tho and dont want to waste money buying the wrong stuff. It is an aluminum roof and looks to be in really good shape. I think I remember Kev saying that when he put kool seal on his roof it helped to keep it cooler inside? So I figure I would tape all the seams and around all protrusions and then paint the kool seal on. Can anyone tell me which tape would be best for an aluminum roof? And also would the tape for aluminum stick where the aluminum meets fiberglass around the edges? Thanks

MJ

[LJ-TJ]

   
• I've seen a lot of roof repairs and this stuff gets my vote.  When I say this tape sticks, trust me this stuff sticks. And the proses is guaranteed for 20 years.
• http://www.polycoatings.com/rvroof.html

[moonlitcoyote]

I just about have my roof done, I used 2" wide eternabond tape that has a fabric backing. The company explained that if I was going to paint over it with anything then the aluminum backed tape was the wrong stuff to use. I have so far rolled on 5 coats of elastomeric coating which is probably enough but I want to use up the whole 5 gallons. There are 2 things I am not real happy about with all of this, #1 the tape shows through to the point that you can still see the fabric texture and #2 I dont get the feeling that the coating is doing much but painting my roof like you paint the walls of your house. I thought it would be thicker and more rubbery. But I suppose if it keeps any leaks from forming thats all that is important.

[Oz]

It is thinner than what you'd expect but, it's not supposed to be done in one or two layers.  I don't know what brand you used but, I used Kool Seal and, from a total strip down, it took 6 coats to cover it until it was completely opaque.

As for the aluminum backed tape not being able to paint over?  Obviously, if you were to scrape something over it, yeah, the coating would likely get scaped off of it. 

Look at my photo album in the General Gallery:  "One day roof reseal"  I used the aluminum backed tape and, 5 years later, it was just as good as the day I resealed it, with only a little discoloring from the weather. 

I wouldn't have used the mesh stuff to cover the seams either.  The tape is good over them too.

[moonlitcoyote]

I almost wish I hadn't listened to the company and went with the aluminum backed tape just because I am a perfectionist and I think it would have looked better. The roof is now most definitely white, and I do mean white. When I climbed up to put another coat on it blinded me so badly my eyes were watering. The brand I used was Sta-Kool and so far I have put 6 coats on I think I have enough left to do another 2-3 coats so thats what it is going to get. I hate letting things go to waste.lol

I forget to mention the 3rd thing I didnt like... The gnats were so attracted to the coating that I have at least 2 million of the little fockers painted into the roof now. 

[Oz]

LOL!  Yup, it sure does look nice and "blinding" white.  I do recall painting a few flying bugs into their permanent resting places when I did mine.

[LJ-TJ]

Trick question  How much did it cost. Is it going to do the job you had hoped for. Would you us this product again. i??

[moonlitcoyote]

Trick answer, Total cost was around $150 I dont know if it's going to do what I hope and I wont know if I would do it again until a few years goes by and I see how it works out. 

[LJ-TJ]

Well I know everybody has their favorite solution. I'm about as Cheap as you can get but I stepped up to the plate and ate the cost not knowing what I was getting and signed up for this stuff. http://www.polycoatings.com/rvroof.html

What I can tell you is it is the stickiest stuff you can imagine and the paint or what ever it is is as thick as molasses.  It almost reminds you of roll on rubber roofing. I'm very confident that it did the job the folks said it would. If and I hope you don't have to do your roof again might I suggest that you try this. I'm confident you won't regret it.

[moonlitcoyote]

thank you, I saved the link just in case this stuff doesnt work out and I have to re-do it. How long ago did you do your roof?

[Froggy1936]

Remember how heavy that container was when full ?  if you use it all that is how much extra weight you will be carrying at all times  ! I used the Kool Seal and recoat ea 3 yrs  Frank

[LJ-TJ]

We just did it this summer. I don't know how to explain it, I've seen all the other applications and all I can say is when I opened the tape on this stuff it was a Holy shoot moment. I mean when they say sticky they really mean sticky. I new right then and there next to putting on a tin roof or a rubber roof this stuff was something else. When we opened the can of Elastomeric roof coating WOW! It's funny it looked like liquid  rubber roof but when we rolled it in, it flowed into all the cracks and crevasses and soaked right in. After it dried which it didn't really do because it dried and just felt rubbery. All I can say for sure is it really worked. As soon as you try it you'll know exactly what I mean. It's worth the investment.

[Wantawinnie]

I had a brainstorm the other day walking around on the flat roof of the Chieftain.  Hm?

They make tapered insulation sheets for flat roof applications on buildings. They come in many different varieties from felt covered sheets to ones with glass fibers, fiberboard, perlite, etc.  A common size sheet is 4' x 4' and the slope can be any number of options.



What I was thinking is getting sheets that taper from 2"-3" or so down to a 1/2", cut them down to the proper width, and put them back to back to form a ridgeline along the center of the roof that would allow drainage to the sides. Once properly attached to the old roof a finish layer of your choosing (EDPM,TPO,PVC, etc.) could then be applied and secured with new edge strips. The front and rear would need to be "customized" a little to blend in the ridgelines.


This would only really apply to structurally sound flat roofs in order to get some slope without total reconstruction. The weight should be minimal, shouldn't be too hard to trim for vents, etc., and the added thermal barrier would be a bonus. I don't know the cost but 10-16 sheets would do most jobs. Do you guys think this is this a viable option?

Here is a link to one of the manufacturers, but there are many different brands.   

http://www.atlasroofing.com/tabbed.php?section_url=99&menu=390

[Oz]

That sounds like a very interesting and viable option.  Since they are available in different widths and tapered, it would be great for instances where the roof is sound, it just has some low spots.

Nice!      

[ibdilbert01]

I really like this idea!!!   I'm in the same boat, my roof is mostly rock solid, except for a tiny spot in the rear where the spare tire sat.

[d21 special]

As mentioned the best way to handle a leaking roof is to replace it. Our winnie had pinholes when we bought it in '93 so we sealed it with elasomeric rv paint.  We continued this for the years following.  That worked to keep the roof dry but the damage was already done.... dry rot set in and the roof sagged more and more.     D:oH!   

So last year we bit the bullet and ripped off the roof.     This site was sooo helpful.  After researching several posts  I used a modification to the posted link above that Madathlon refers to.  I used 2" x 4" where the AC goes for 4 joists, I left 36" in the centre of these 2" x 4" flat to help mounting the AC and then tapered them to 1.5" on the outside.  I then did the same to 3 - 2"x.3"  and then dropped down to 2" x 2" for the front and the back.  At the very front just under the brow sheet aluminium I used a 1" x 2".  This doubled the overall roof thickness to 1.5" to 3.5".  This served to slope the roof from side to side and front to back and saved having to cut radius on each joist.  I used a snowflake panelling for the ceiling at $35 per sheet and 3/8" plywood G1S for the rooftop insulated with rigid foam.  I then glued EPDM roofing membrane (white side up!) and have a dry roof for at least the next 12-20 years.  Its not that bad to do if you have just some basic framing carpentry skills.  No more difficult than say adding a room in the basement.

[cosmic]

Because the roof was sagging it had to come down the ceiling sheets 4x8  bought new sheets for $45.00 after I installed steel and got the roof back up I used a staple gun and I put new angle iron in the corners and used new screws then re-installed the cupboards. You may want to run some wood so you have something to staple to because the staples wont hold in foam.

all in all it wasn't that bad. I had a friend help me and it took a day. but looks like new.
Add no more sag around the ac collecting water.

[Mr. T]

I just put my first coat of sealant on my fiberglass roof.  I chose to use Black Jack Elastomeric roofing sealant.  I got it at Lowes Home Improvement for 84.00.  I chose this because it specifically states that it would bond to fiberglass.

So far, I am very pleased.  It dries to the whitest of whites.  Beautiful appearance.  I plan to put two more coats on tomorrow.

Don T.

[ClydesdaleKevin]

Excellent!  I've used that and the Henry brand from Home Depot, and never had a problem with either. 

Kev

[Mr. T]

Best of all, this North Carolina weather is perfect for sealing 


Don T.

[Stripe]

I used stuff that I got from that place...  Too white compared to the rest of the 'Goose'...

[OldEdBrady]

All excellent information.  But I guess I'll thrown my 2 cents in, too.  When absolutely NOTHING worked on the leaks in the Alfabago, I purchased a quart can of stuff called Dyco 890.  I only got the little can because I'd tried so many things that never seemed to work.  The next rain, no leaks.  So I went back and got more of the stuff and covered the entire roof.  Been several years now, and no new leaks have appeared.  And it was so much easier than ripping off the entire roof and rebuilding it.  Especially since, at my age, I'd need about 10 years to get a new roof on.

[Winnebago Warrior 94]

I plan on coating my metal roof on the winnebago  warrior  with the black jack "Ultra Roof  " elastomeric  siliconized  roof coating..I used this roof coating  on a rubber roof I had on my travel trailer I use to have ..it seemed to work good on that roof ..it would like to hear if they led it for the metal roofs ..it see where several people have bought it on this tread for there motorhome  but would like to know if it worked out good for them ..it have also used the "Ultra Roof  " on my awning . .I roll my awning out and I paint with it down even to the first line ..usually like 2 ft down and I paint it really   good along the edge ..I do this the give it uv   protection due to it being in the sun ..it stayed on really well with opening and closing the awning ..it have painted 2 different awnings on my previous travel   trailers ..it also help to waterproof  it ..I got the idea because my awning  started to Crack and leak in the upper area where they are attached   ..and it sealed the holes and stopped it from leaking .when I put my new awning on I'm going to use the ultra roof on it from the get go ..can I hear reviews on how yall liked the black jack "Ultra seal"
elastomeric 10 year  coating on your metal roofs please

[DRMousseau]

My first "canopy" was a 12x9 heavy canvas tarp that I painted with elastomeric and made even HEAVIER. I attached "tubing" with cord to the grommets that slipped into the channel rail, and had adjustable aluminum poles to guy it out tight,.... sorta "60's style", it was cheap, easy and served well for a long time. Now stored and unused it's still in good clean waterproof shape! I've made large outdoor banners the same way and they've lasted for several YEARS now.


OH,.... and tomorrow,... temps near 70 for a couple days, time to clean and seal my rooftop too! Using Ames Maximum Stretch elastomeric coating after a good cleaning and taping of seams and joints.

[khantroll]

I used Kool Seal over a pourable EPDM coating on mine. So far, I've gone nearly two years and the roof is still water tight. I used roughly 5 gallons of Kool Seal, spread out over 5-6 coats. I have not re-coated my Roof, though I probably should.