Found reason for fuel starvation 78 Dodge Itasca

[pinballlarry1]

Sent: 6/11/2007 7:31 PM

After redoing the electric fuel pump and filter at the engine, I was only getting 1-2 psi intermittently.  The 440 engine was obviously starving for gas. Eyeballed the entire steel fuel line in the frame, it looked ok. Took out the rear table floor socket, peek in and noticed a wet spot on the rubber hose at the tank outlet tube.  Cut the plywood floor open about 6" by 10" and replaced the 3/8" rubber fuel hose.  The original has so many cracks it's a wonder it pulled up any gas.  The pressure gage now pegs out at 15, time to install a regulator.

[ZR91]

Sent: 6/11/2007 8:30 PM

Great post !

I have been chasing an intermittent fuel starvation problem for awhile now.Tomorrow I will run a new fuel line right from the tank. I have the material and benders at work, so I think I will run a 3/8 stainless steel line along the frame and mount a relocated fuel filter. I am thinking of installing an electric fuel pump, then running the fuel line on top of the transmission up to the carb-this would eliminate the fuel line running beside the headers. Any suggestions?

[denisondc]

Sent: 6/12/2007 4:07 AM

The only reason the original fuel line ran along side the frame rail was to get it up to the mechanical pump at the front of the motor; so rerouting it from an electrical pump would be a sound idea. You would need to have a rubber hose section of course, to go from the line on the frame to (non-vibrating) to the motor (which vibrates and wobbles).
I added heat shields between my exhaust system and the fuel lines. The fuel line was 'in-sight' of the exhaust in a couple of places, totalling a couple of feet and closer to the exhaust manifold than I liked. So was my aux. fuel tank, which I also shielded. The main tank, which came on the chassis from Dodge, already had such a heat shield. My heat shields were just pieces of sheet aluminum hung in place. They totally eliminated my vapor lock problems and scary temperatures at the fuel pump inlet. I kept the mechanical pump, for its reliability - but I replace it every ten years anyway *.
I also replaced all of the rubber fuel lines when I got the Winnie - as it was 19 years old. Maybe this winter I will replace them all again, as it has been 16 years since I did it.
* If my winnie has been sitting for more than a week or two since last run, I always remove the engine cover and air cleaner, fill the carb float bowl with fuel via the vent tube, then start it up. I watch for flames, leaks, replace the air cleaner, check the tranny fluid level, then put the engine cover back on.

[ZR91]

Sent: 6/16/2007 4:08 PM

Well,
I found my fuel starvation problem today....

The original fuel filter (1978) was still mounted on the frame, completely covered by the sprayed on insulating foam.
The other filter that I had changed closer to the engine was a second one that had been installed at some point.

I also rerouted the fuel line away from the exhaust-up behind the waterpump and over the intake manifold.

So, my fuel is no longer boiling hot when it gets to the carb, and there is plenty of it.

We are taking it for a drive today to test all of the mods.
Jay

[pinballlarry1]

Sent: 6/17/2007 3:02 PM

Finished the electric fuel pump installation, much easier to troubleshoot now with the pressure gauge on the carb inlet pipe. I also installed a sheet metal heat shield to keep the header pipe from cooking things.  Quite easy to change the fuel filter from inside now...

[Slantsixness]

Sent: 6/17/2007 3:45 PM

Larry,
Nice install. Love the clear filter, those have been a little hard to find... most of the time they're the opaque white plastic version. I found little 1" ones for lawn Tractors, but they're not very effective.

As I look at your picture, it appears that the power lead was only crimped on one side... but it could be turned in such a way that you can't tell....  I'd hate for you to find out the wire falls out when you try to go somewhere!

Did you sell the 71 on ebay? I saw that the reserve wasn't met, but they did get kind of "close". I wish it were closer to me, and I'd have bought it, but the expense of transporting it or driving it across the country was too great, and I don't have enough vacation time to do that anyway. -darn!

Tom

[Lefty]

Sent: 6/17/2007 7:28 PM

Tom, The clear filters are available at Napa, ask for a gold series filter, the silver series had the opaque white bowls, but the gold series were clear. They come in 1/4", 5/16", and 3/8" sizes. I think the part number was 1001,1002, & 1003 (respectively), but I'll double-check & let you know tomorrow.

Larry, nice work, but I hate to tell you, that teflon tape needs to go. Teflon dissolves in the presence of gasoline, and will go straight to the jets in the carbs. I've tore down bunches of carbs that had gummed up jets with pieces of teflon goo stuck in them.
Teflon is used for water connections, or oil. Never gasoline.

[Slantsixness]

Sent: 6/17/2007 7:34 PM

Thanks Lefty,

Most of the time, I use the stamped steel "bargain store brand" (you know the ones with the Reincarnated fake name like "Wells" etc...) fuel filters, because I was tired of getting stuck with the white plastic ones.

Post the part numbers for them at NAPA. It's worth an extra $5 a filter if I can see the crap in it, or the lack of flow... rather than guessing!

Tom

[pinballlarry1]

Sent: 6/17/2007 8:13 PM

Thanks for all the comments everyone, I do hope that all the repairs and posts I make will be beneficial for other.
The '71 Winnebago did not sell on Ebay, almost 1100 hits, 22 watchers, 4 bidders, but topped out at $1235, my reserve was $1400.  No one has taken me up on the second chance offer.  Still available if anyone wants it for $1400. Drove it recently and it did fine, just needs tires to get back on the road.
The clear filter is a Fram G2 3/8" bought at Kragens auto for $5.50, I have 2 more spares for the eventual rust clogging I see occuring. The power wire is crimped on both ends, good eye slantsixness. 
I have used Teflon tape on fuel fittings many times before, I'm very careful to stay back 2 threads when wrapping. I've been doing industrial plumbing since 1979 and never really liked the messy pastes. I'll probably take the top off the carb in a few weeks anyway to check for debris one more time.
It appears that my fuel tank level sender was correct when it read empty.  When I took it out for cleaning and inspection, there was less than 2" of fuel in a 12" deep tank.
Been working on the front roof seam disaster, I'll take photos of that fix soon.
pinballlarry