Original Converter '75 Brave ??

[tomr]

I'm just wondering if my "new" '75 Brave is still sporting its original converter. Does this look familiar ? Given its ungainly length, it takes up quite a bit of room. Relocation ?? hmmmmm...



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[LJ-TJ]

Yep! Ours is a 75 as well and that's the same as ours....T. J.

[tbirdkeys]

I have a 75 and I have this same converter.  Can anyone tell me if this model is supposed to charge the batteries when connected to shore power.  And if so, does it only charge the coach batt or the vehicle batt also.  Thanks, I read the original manual and it does not say.  Ryan

[tomr]

My '75 is "new to me" so I'm still learning...I don't think the converter itself has a built-in charger, but if you look in the trunk (if you have one), some of them came with a 3 amp or so Progressive Dynamics add-on charger. You almost have to stick your head in the trunk and look up :-* It's a silver box. I suspect it only charges the coach batteries, but my coach wiring has been "modified" to say the least, so I don't know for sure...
Tom

[Slantsixness]

You guessed right. The PD charger only charges the coach batteries.... unless it was modified to charge both (which is doubtful)

But.... the Dual / MOM  switch on the dash must NOT be in Dual with this charger turned on, or you can damage the regulator on the chassis.

Dual is for recharging while driving (not just sitting and running, and not for 16 hours of driving, either, you will overtax the Alternator and things will go wrong.... maybe for 4 hours max... watch your alternator guage... if it's charging like 10 amps or more (1/4 scale to the + side) then your alternator is overtaxed. if you're driving over 4 hours, give the alternator at least an hour break when you can)

Dual means both Chasis and Coach batteries are connected (but with relatively small guage wire, so there isn't a lot of current capacity.)

MOM means Momentary. through a solenoid, the coach and Chassis batteries are connected with a maximum current draw of 200+ amps. (the operation of this switch is to give yourself a jumpstart when your chassis battery has gone dead for some reason. It is not recommended to hold down the MOM switch and try to start the rig... the proper operation is described as " depress and hold in the MOM position for 30 seconds, release the switch and attempt to start the engine again"
What really happens? People crank the engine while holding down the MOM switch for as long as it takes. (and so far it hasn't permanently hurt anybody's rig in over 30 years, but it might do something... like burn up the solenoid or the mom switch itself, but that's about the extent of it.)

(ok the dual /MOM switch definition was included here as a reference. I know that's not his original question!)

sounds like you found a really complete rig. wish mine had been anywhere near that close when I got it... would've saved me a lot of time and effort, but I still love the old beast, even after sinking 12 grand in it