Where can I get LP gas Propane lines?

[MSN Member]

Sent: 12/21/2007

Seems nothing is cheap and easy fix yet on this.....

Someone took the LP pipe that t's off from the back of the rv and runs up front where it is supposed to t off to the stove and fridge.

I went to look for a pipe to do this, and was told that I needed "flex steel" to run this distance. It is about 8 foot or so .....

Has anyone had to replace this pipe? Where did you get it?

I searched the boards here and did not find anything on it .

[denisondc]

Sent: 12/21/2007

I haven't replaced mine, but I am sure it is just a standard length of iron water pipe, 1/2" i.d. with adapter fittings at each end where it connects to a 3/8" copper pipe. It is supported each 3 or 4 feet with common pipe clamps. I would use a sealant at the pipe threads; like plumbers joint compound. Mine is fairly rusty. When I replace it I don't plan to use what the RV industry is using these days. I will use a piece of pipe from the nearest Home Depot, but might use 3/8" pipe instead of 1/2".

[ClydesdaleKevin]

Sent: 12/21/2007

For a long run, plain old iron pipe is a LOT better than flex pipe.  Just go down to the home depot and pick out the 1/2 iron pipe you need, along with the necessary elbows and T fittings, and the clamps Denison was talking about.  I highly recommend using the yellow thread compound, however, made specifically for propane applications.  Don't use thread tape:  Pipe threads are too coarse to get a good seal from even the yellow tape, even though our propane systems are very low pressure.

It should be a cheap fix for you after all!

Kev

[DaveVA78Chieftain]

Sent: 12/21/2007

Make sure you use black iron pipe.  It's rated for higher pressure.  Galvanized (silver) water pipe is NOT what you want.  You also use a different pipe tape for gas/propane.  If i recall correctly it's pink, not yellow.

[denisondc]

Sent: 12/21/2007

The pressure in the RV propane system 'downstream' of the regulator is about 1/2 pound per square inch.
I replaced my regulator years ago, after smelling a slow leak one windless day. The old reg was at least 25 years old and a single stage unit The new one was the two stage type - which all that they sell now.

[ClydesdaleKevin]

Sent: 12/21/2007

I have to disagree, Dave...lol!  Yellow is the color code for propane and gas.  And you don't want to use tape at all on pipe threads for propane...use the yellow thread compound.  Just be patient and let it dry before using it and putting it under pressure.

Also, since, as Dave Denison said, the propane lines AFTER the regulator are under such low pressure, the black OR the galvanized pipe will do.  You might get more mileage out of the galvanized, since it won't corrode as quickly.  The black will be cheaper.

Kev

[Cooneytoones]

Sent: 12/26/2007

HOME DEPOT, LOWES or any hardware store will carry all the piping you will need...to run an LP Gas line....ONE NOTE OF CAUTION:
You have to be careful when using IRON PIPE, use either all black pipe or all galvanized pipe.... ONE OR THE OTHER......DO NOT MIX UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES.... not even one fitting, or a major leak will develop almost overnight........Use either galvanized or black pipe.

Under the rig black pipe is the best because as KEV said, it's rigid & solid leaving any flying debris that may be thrown by the wheels from the road will not harm the pipe (remember) use black fittings with black pipe, galvanized fittings with galvanized pipe........  brass fittings are OK on either when installing a shut off or going from Black IRON to copper pipe or galvanized to copper.....then inside the rig I would use flaired copper , a 50 foot roll of copper will be more than enough.....3/8" piping will be big enough, but you can go up to 1/2 inch...The reason I would use 3/8th, is that, if your water lines just happen to be 1/2" flaired or compression copper you will always be able to tell them apart with out marking them in place that are hard to see.

It is not a very hard process to flair the pipe, a good flairing tool at Home Depot, Lowes, or any hardware store ACE TRUE VALUE etc. is about 10 bucks, always start with a clean end, put your fittings on the pipe (very important) then flair the ends using the tool.....Practice on a few scrap pieces if you've never done this.........Once all the fittings are in place, tighten them up good, turn on the main at the tank...

NOTE:  After you turn on the main valve, get under your rig and see if you can smell anything..LP Gas is heavier than air and drops to the lowest point....If you do not smell anything abnormal, then you may want to just light a pilot on your stove, once it is lit let the pilot run for a minute of so then shut it off. This helps you to know for sure you have LP in all the lines, sometimes you will get a little air and the LP isn't through all the pipes yet, and as a few have said it is not high pressure and the flow sometimes takes awhile... once you have a lit pilot... YOU KNOW FOR SURE YOU HAVE GAS FLOW....after shutting off the pilot, leave the main valve  ON,,,,,,then test all joints with a soapy water mixture.

To make a mixture of testing solution, a little soap and the rest water mixed in a spray bottle... Spray solution on ALL the connections one at a time, watching as you spray, check ALL joints you may have...if any bubbles appear on the pipe joint, the joint is not tight enough and is leaking. Re-tighten. On your flair ends, check the threaded connections and the joint behind the fitting...(where the fitting meets the pipe) if its bad flair it will bubble there.

"EXTREME CAUTION" is to be used at all times when playing in or around Liquid Petroleum .... a small leak, pocketed in an area could be detrimental to both you and your rig to say the least.....If you are ever in doubt about anything on the LP System, then seek professional help. There are somethings for some folks that are not a DIY project, and better left to a professional.... LP GAS is one of them...But with a little knowledge, caution, and common sense it can be done safely. Good Luck, and most of all B-SAFE....

Timmy

[13503gds]

Sent: 5/5/2008

Woo boys. As a gas fitter no gas should be in galvanized pipe. Black pipe only. Same with the fittings. Use white pipe dope & not tape on the fittings. Galvanized pipe is for electrical or water only. I'm sure the reasons being are the same in the US as Canada.

[13503gds]

Sent: 5/5/2008

Actually black pipe & galvanized will corrode over time if screwed together. Galvanized can flake off & plug gas valves that's why they don't use it on gas.

[Flyswthwnd]

Sent: 6/27/2008

The original pipe on theses rigs is Black iron.  Black Iron is  gas  pipe with copper distribution lines. And yes the pressure is low .  There is flex LP  lines that can be used as your distribution lines but the deteriorate so be careful. I am a professional Balloon Pilot so I handle large amounts of liquid propane every day .  The reason for Copper is that the vibration on flex LP lines will wear down the casing and the rubber eventually dry rots.  On hot air balloons FAA requires that we replace flex  lines on a regular bases.  I inspect my lines every day.  I'm not sure what the squawk is about using Teflon tape as we use it  every day.  I would never use those cheap hoses they sell at wall mart camping supply's.  There are hoses designed for LP.  look in the yellow pages for a hose shop or welding supply. But I recommend you stick to Copper and black pipe. I would never use those metal flex pipes. The vibration from traveling will wear them out in a hurry

Remember what's in your LP tank is liquid and you are drawing vapor off the top of the tank. Never lay your tank on its side when in use.  Propane is heavier than air it will sit in low places.  Everyone should have an LP detector in their rig mounted in a low place.  a detector mounted high is worthless.