Radiator replacement options?

[ibdilbert01]

I'm thinking about replacing my radiator with a 3 row champion, made for a 1967 - 1973 Barracuda.  There are actually two kinds I can find for early Chryslers, one was a 29 inch from mounting bracket to mounting bracket, and the other is about 26 inches.    Below is the smaller ones dimensions.

Core Dimensions: 17 1/2" high x 22 1/4" wide (3 row core)
Overall Dimensions: 21 3/8" high (22 1/2" Incl Cap) x 25 5/8" wide (incl brackets)
Upper inlet: 1 1/2" located on passenger side.
Lower outlet: 1 3/4" located on driver side.
Auto trans cooler: included
Bracket mount system
OEM style brass petcock drain.
Billet style fill neck construction NOT STAMPED
Radiator cap is included 

Price, $219.00 if you score one on ebay.   

I'll also be changing the fan over to electric.   I just haven't figured out what style of fan control I will be using.  Autozone sells a 20 dollar fan control that has a probe you stick behind the radiator fins.  Digital Dakota (http://www.dakotadigital.com) makes a nice controller, the PAC-2700 that uses the existing gauge sensor to control the fan, but its expensive, about 115 bucks.  There are fan controls that you screw your radiator cap over, I don't like these kinds, and they are prone to leak.   There is even an adapter style configuration where you can screw a regular radiator switch sensor into.



Any comments?

[DaveVA78Chieftain]

Been there done this:
For a 318 or 413 this should be ok.  I think inlet/outlet tubes can be matched up.  For a 440-3, you will have to find a doublepass radiator because both inlet & outlet are on the passenger side.  Problems come in that:
1) The bottom of car radiators typically mounted lower in the chassis in relation to the engine compared to a Dodge MH chassis.  The bottom hose outlet may be angled upwards such that it creates problems getting a hose to fit.
2)  Car radiators mount into a frame built into the car.  Dodge MH radiators have the mounting frame built onto the radiator.  You will have to build a custom mounting frame.  If you do not have a welder, you have to get real creative.
3)  Do to placement, access to the radiator cap can be troublesome.  You loose the refill extension tube.
4)  You will need to build a new mounting bracket for the water recovery (overflow) tank.
5)  Tranmission cooler may not be included.  You may need to use a external air cooled setup.  Add a tranmission temp gauge.

Dave

[Oz]

Excellent info, gentlemen!  With the ever increasing expense and difficulty associated with replacing our aged radiators, readily available, affordable replacements and the methods/modifications and considerations necessary to use them is a vital contribution to everyone.   

[ibdilbert01]

The new radiator came in the mail Friday, a Champion cc2375 Pro Series.  Just a few things to note.

The new radiator does not come with an extended fill spout, however because the radiator is shorter, there is no need for the extended fill spout. 

Because the new radiator was shorter, and a few inches narrower, it really made handling a lot easier than the factory radiator.   

I was able to use the bottom radiator mounts over, but I had to move them forward a few inches to give clearance for the electric fan and the engines water pump.   I had to make top radiator mounts. 

The configuration of the new radiator had the bottom hose on the drivers side, so I was able to reuse the factory hose.   But the top hose inlet is located on the passenger side, unlike the factory that is in the center.   I was able to use a Gates Flex tube with a pre molded 90 on it.  PN 25806

The bottom tank of the Radiator has a built in Tranny Cooler like the stock radiator and I was able to reconnect the tranny lines with no issues. 

I also went ahead and converted the fan to Electric.  I used a ProComp 16" Fan.  P/N PC-2054 

To Control the fan, I used a Hayden 3647 Fan Control, it is adjustable.   It comes with everything you need to hook the fan up.  I wasn't happy with the temp sensor, as your suppose to stick it in the fens of the Radiator.   The probe is too fat, however I was able to slide it up high against the upper tank on the radiator.   If I were to do this project again, I would try to find a different fan control, and if I used the probe style again, I would try to find one with a thinner probe.



Before the radiator replacement, I could not run the RV at idle with out the temp gauge running hot.   If I were going down the road under 60mph I could get the needle to move to a med/hot position, right of center.    If I would travel above 65 the needle would peg hot.   Removing the radiator and looking inside proved about 75% of the cores were clogged.   

As of today, I let the RV Idle for about half an hour, and the needle stays in the middle, and might rise a hair, at that moment, the fan kicks on and drops the needle back to the center.  I have not road tested the new configuration yet.

[GulfCoastFighter0]

Here is a link to my radiator replacement thread for another option:
http://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/index.php?topic=3182.msg7208#msg7208

[ibdilbert01]

Just a quick followup.   The Jam was the first on road test I had with the new radiator installation. Round trip was around 300 miles, and the temp gauge stayed in the center, where I believe its about 180.  I'm pleased with the results.

[Oz]

Fantexcellent!

Looks like a good option to an expensive recore job for 318s.  It would be good to see if others choosing this option for latter years have different mounting issues and the same results!

[ibdilbert01]

A quick update on the ProComp 16" Fan.  P/N PC-2054.    I noticed the temp gauge started to rise past center while idling yesterday morning.   At first I thought the fan control failed.   What I found instead was one of the brush holders in the motor had melted and the fan was not coming on.

I replaced it with a 16" Hayden fan from Advanced Auto last night.  Hopefully it will hold up better.

[GulfCoastFighter0]

That's good to know, don't trust the pro-comp fans.  On a side note, I just went on a 4 day camping trip, one hour there, and one back, and my temp never went above the "low normal" range.  I love my inexpensive "Silla" radiator!

[mike roy]

after reading about the problems with overheating, my D-22 has been hot, replaced both head gaskets and the thermostat and it is still running close to max, thank you for more info.  it has helped me make up my mind. I will replace the radiator next. the water pump seems alright, tight and no leaks. again thanks to all of you! mike roy

[GulfCoastFighter0]

after reading about the problems with overheating, my D-22 has been hot, replaced both head gaskets and the thermostat and it is still running close to max, thank you for more info.  it has helped me make up my mind. I will replace the radiator next. the water pump seems alright, tight and no leaks. again thanks to all of you! mike roy

I'd have it checked by a radiator shop first.  They may be able to rod it out which will be much less expensive than a replacement.  Don't spend big bucks on a chance to fix the problem, make sure that it's needed first!  (Especially if your an el-cheap-o like me  )!

[rustyescott1]

This has been what's holding up texabago from running down the road. It took most of day doing research trying to find radiator closer to same size. Thats a lot of cooling area to lose. but if it works, that's what I will use, 
Rusty

[rustyescott1]

One more option on radiator replacement! I spoke with the folks at AFCO Corp today. They make aluminum radiators. They will custom make a aluminum radiator for our Winnes. I talked with Eric, ex.6202, and gave him all info on my radiator. It will cost $474.00, with a 3 week build time to make a new Winne Radiator. I did not think the price was to bad, beccause the local radiator shop quoted $800.00 a year ago to re-core.  AFCO 800-632-2320 ex.6202 ask for Eric. or afabcorp.com.
Rusty