How to replace your front windshields

[Oz]

I have to replace both my windshields sometime (cost to just cut the glass = $59 ea) and Dave sent me this excellent procedure to follow to do it myself...



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      My Winny came with one cracked windshield that I had to replace it. I reused the old seal/gasket, not even trying to find a new one, though it would probably be a better idea. Im convinced it was a common gasket cross section back then for trucks. I don?t know if you are fond of doing your own windshield replacement. If so you could look for a new gasket first: try glass places, or ask at a truck place who does flat windshield replacement. Whoever replaces windshields in trucks having flat glass, might have the same/similar rubber gasket -it would come in rolls, you
would buy it by the foot.  I don't see it in the J.C. Whitney catalogs now, but they used to carry it, and you might want to call them about it. Also, antique car suppliers might have it- try the link at the top of the CW site, it?s a recurring
problem for antiques.

     Replacing the glass yourself is definitely possible, but over the years I had practiced glass or gasket removal on other cars when I had the chance, and some of those windshields were already broken or weren't needed for patterns, and broke during my practicing. If you can get a new gasket it would mean you could slice the old gaskets away to get the glass out for patterns - the two windows are probably identical in dimensions, but I would measure them to be sure anyway. The new gasket would be a little more flexible.

     The seal/gasket on mine has a slit all around it, sort of in the middle of the exterior surface. This is the -locking- scheme. You work a screwdriver into the slit, and pull out on the part further from the glass.  This will be easiest to start doing at the place where the ends of the gasket abut each other. Like I said, it comes in rolls, so there has to be a place where the two ends abut.

     The other part, the half that is against the glass, can then be folded down into the space created by pulling out the locking flap. If you could do it all the way around at the same time, the glass would easily push out.  It was years ago, but I think I made up some little wood strips, just 2 or 3 inches long by 1/4 thick, and stuck them into the gap as I worked around the opening pulling that flap open. I left the strips in place overnight, so that the next day the gaskets -memory- would make it easier for me to proceed. Then I tried folding the half of the gasket adjoining the glass, out away from the glass and down into the gap, taking my wood strips out as I worked around, and using the wood strips again, but now between the glass and gasket, to keep the gasket distorted in a way that would loosen its hold on the windshield for the next day.

     That next day, after I had slid a table knife all around the glass-rubber connection from inside the Winny, and squirted windex in there to make the rubber stop
adhering to the surface of the glass, I had my wife and one of her sisters, wearing gloves, pushing out on the windshield - pushing hard too- while I removed the wood strips along the outside, and working from an upper corner, slowly the glass moved out, with lots of wiggling of the rubber, and squirting with sudsy solution, and thinking of bad words. They had to push hard, the glass was already cracked, and it cracked some more. I only wanted to preserve the glass enough to measure it, and make a cardboard template. This I was able to do, I got a new piece of AS-1 glass
made up, and then had to reinstall it, without any cracks! It has to be AS-1 glass, and I think it has to say so, etched into one corner.

     To reinstall, you push the new glass down into the gaskets slot, across the
bottom of the windshield opening, working it fully down and carefully centered. Then you have to work the folding part of the gasket out around the glass, up the sides, and across the top. This can be done by careful use of things like table knives and small screwdrivers. I have seen sketches of using a thick cord that is pulled from the outside, as you push in on the glass, and the cord has to come from inside the RV, around the gasket, and it pulls the gasket up around the outside of the glass as it
comes. It is easy to understand if there was a picture.

     Anyway, at some point before you finish they recommend you use sealant,
squeezed from a cartridge, wherever you like. I didn't use any, and it leaks slightly in heavy rains. The gasket relaxes itself, you push the locking flap into position, and you are done. Simple, at least after you've done it successfully once!
     There is a more common gasket for the flat windshields now, whereby an
extra piece of rubber is pushed into the gap in the gasket, and which then locks the gasket into shape. If you can get that in rolls I am sure it would work just as well. The only thing to be careful about, is whether the new gasket has the same dimension in relative to the space between the outside of the glass, and the opening in the aluminum windshield frame. If the new gasket is thicker, you might need to compensate by getting the glass that much smaller in height and width.
     And of course, there are job-shops who will make you up any shape of rubber
extrusion you want, but they will insist on making a kilometer of it - and you have to pay for the whole kilometer. If you do this I will be glad to buy enough for two complete winnies. Anybody who was in that business would probably have a reel of the gasket you need sitting in his inventory.
Dave Denison

[biggrock1]

Sent: 5/1/2006

Someone has smashed the driver's side windshield in my old Winnie.  I was wondering if anyone had replaced one recently or had it done.  I am curious about price mostly.

Thanx in advance
Howie

[Slantsixness]

Sent: 5/3/2006

Howie,

This is flat glass. Go to a glass shop, not necessarily a auto glass shop. tell them you need a piece of automotive grade flat glass cut and installed.

If they try of find "windshields" for an old split window winnie, they probably would cost $700...

Go somewhere else. if there's no place else... go to a junk yard. $700+ is impossibly high... even in Canadian Dollars.\

Tom

[denisondc]

Sent: 5/3/2006

   The key word for the type of glass is laminated AS-1.  Thats the grade of glass used in windshields  AS-2 was the glass used in the side windows of cars, in the old days when that glass was flat.
   I went to a glass shop with the old broken windshield and a cardboard template I had made.  They charged me about $12-$15 per square foot for the glass, and the cutting was either free or very little cost.   
    The people you were talking to must have been thinking of the glass in late model cars, which is curved of course, or the curved glass in the side windows of cars, which is heat treated and cannot be cut.   Or maybe they just thought you wouldn't know that their pricing was way off.

[Slantsixness]

Sent: 5/4/2006

No,
72 windshields are shorter and narrower. I forget the measurement exactly but I know the windshields out of Bob's 75 Donorbago were larger than my 72(7'6"wide body), but they do fit 73-up Winnies...(7'9" wide models with the taller windows..)
68-72 are the same (all, except Minnie)
73-76 are the same (except Custom, Elandan, Itasca class A and Expo)
77-81 are the same (including Custom and Elandan, Itasca)

This may not be exactly right, and the Expo may have it's own custom size, unlike the custom.

None of these windshields are available "off the shelf" except for the Dodge chassis Minnie (class C) (this windshield is the same size from 1971-1997+) I'm not sure on the Itasca Class C, but It should also be an "off the shelf" curved windshield for a GM Van, but it could be an extended (wider) part.

I have a Guy in Fredericksburg that will custom make or replace Windshields for almost any Motorhome with flat glass. The business is called Fredericksburg Auto Glass. Takes about 5 days to get the window glass ordered, cut and installed. Even shorter than that if they have the glass in stock. AS-1 glass is readily available nationwide, including Canada and Mexico. Even though typically only used for Motorvehicles, AS-1 glass is also used in Windows,Skylights display counter glass and other applications too.

Tom

[DanK]

Sent: 5/5/2006

I recently replaced my passenger side window on my '75 D23 in the Eugene area of Oregon. They removed the broken windshield, used it for a pattern and cut a new one. They installed it with the original rubber seal and it cost me $120.

[biggrock1]

Sent: 5/5/2006

You guys all sound encouraging and I hope to have it looked at on Saturday. We have a long week-end coming up here this month and I hate to miss it. This windshield will cut into our camping money but it will be gr8 to get away.

[biggrock1]

Sent: 5/5/2006

Well guys I made it to the glass shop today  armed with all  the info that you gave me especially the type of glass it is(AS-1) This seemed to impress the guy and I came away with an estimate of $230 installed.He didn't have time to do it today but first thing Monday Morning I will have a new windshield.
Thanx again.
Howie.

[Slantsixness]

Sent: 5/7/2006

$230 (CA) isn't terrible Howie. Whole lot better than an arm and a leg, Eh?!

Tom

[biggrock1]

Sent: 5/7/2006

No I can handle that.
Thanx again

[tatkin]

Sent: 5/8/2006

Please post the final outcome of this ordeal.   Since I read this topic I have been watching in the back.   This would really suck if you could not fix it ...   

[GoBagoGo]

Sent: 5/9/2006

Just an FYI ...

I just got both windshields (cracked and fogged) replaced in my '75 Brave for $275 US. He came out to size up the job, custom cut the laminated auto glass himself, and returned to install them (reusing the seals which were fine) a couple days later. I thought this was a hell of a deal. This guy's day job is at a glass shop, but he has his own thing going on the side. That's probably a good combo to look for. Anyway, I thought you'd like to know, and sure is nice having a clear view!

Cheers!

[biggrock1]

Sent: 5/12/2006

Well!! I was finally able to get that windshield installed today and the final cost was $210 which really left me with a smile.I sure would have liked to change them both, another time. At least I can see to drive now. I

[JDxeper]

Sent: 10/8/2007

Help I am in the process of taping all the joints to reseal and have removed the trim. Question? how do you seal around the windshield? The PO use lots of silicone and appears to have stopped the drain holes and rust is starting to form. Do you just tape body to the windshield frame or tape the whole thing? If the whole thing is sealed there appears no way for condensation to escape. What to to do?
1978 23 ft Brave

[denisondc]

Sent: 10/9/2007

Mine is a 72, and might have a different frame/gasket arrangement. Our windshield would leak in heavy rain, so I had to seal it. I used the clear 100% silicone in a cartridge. First I used an exacto knife to remove the old sealant that I found between the gasket and the frame - (not much of that left.) I ran a bead around the gaskets, between frame and gasket. I also ran a bead around the inner rim of the gasket (but still outside of the vehicle). Later I also sliced out the old gasket between the frame and the aluminum body sheeting and replaced it, but using white silicone sealant. There had been a substantial seal here originally, but I try to replace that seal about each two years. After that we no long had rainwater oozing onto the dashboard in heavy rains.

[JDxeper]

Sent: 10/9/2007

The windshield has a steel frame and the glass appears to be placed on some sort of rubber seal similar to a car. The glass just sits on the sealant. There is a u-shaped channel around the edges. The seal does not cover the edge of the glass.

[tiinytina]

Sent: 10/23/2007

Just my 2 cents. My window guy Jim who has been doing auto glass for 20 years had three words of advice for me after he came over and resealed our front windshields. Don't use Silicone! silicone photo degrades very quickly. He pulled some off the trim and it looked like swiss cheese, Pat had put it on just 6 months earlier.

The solution is to use a "window/siding" latex or urethane based caulk. I found clear versions at the local HD.

Tina

[denisondc]

Sent: 10/23/2007

I have had better results with silicone - for sealing seams in the aluminum skin. I buy the 100% silicone RTV stuff in cartridges, in either white, black, or clear - depending on where it will be. It has lasted okay for me. I replace it about each two years though. One of the things I like is that it is easy to remove. An exacto knife will slice it, and with luck it will come off in long strings. Otherwise I scrub the residue away with a brass bristle brush. If I leave the silicone on the RV longer than 2 years, it holds up okay everywhere except on the roof - where it will be lifting away at seams after the 3rd or 4th year. I apply it in the evenings, before sundown. It wont adhere well if applied to a scorching hot surface, nor will it adhere well if the surface is not dry & clean. I use black on the roof, white on the sides, clear around the windshield rubber gasket. I tried the acrylic latex sealants, but it didnt seem to hold up any better, and was substantially harder to remove after a few years - at least from the aluminum skin of my Winnie. When I started doing the roof of my RV back in 91, I dont recall being able to find any of the urethane sealant in cartridges. I should try some of it now to see if its better.

[DanielTBolger]

There only two types of window mounting, glue-in, or rubber gasket. The rubber seal type is rope-in. Glue-in types are easy. Only tool needed is chrome removing tool. Rope-in is kind of easy but takes two people. First you need cotton rope .25" thick cotton rope only no other rope works if you try it will cut the rubber on installment you a razer knife to cut the old widow out (if widow has chips or crack in it go find a new class it will break on installment) clean the window edge good  install the rubber gasket around the window find some slimy soap, dish soap works for me. Soak the rope in it. the rope must go all the way around the window with about two feet extra on each end. Center it to the bottom of the window in the lip. Next you find a buddy that real mellow. Hook the bottom of the window in the lip of window frame. Have a hook (shape like hay hook) with dull in on it to help you in spot around the window. Have your friend put slit pressure on glass inside star to pull rope around the widow lip keep it in the frame, stop if some of it doesn't. Use the hook help it go around part way at time with the rope ends (keep hold of the loose end so you don't pull it out) It takes time. Don't get mad if it does not work the first time. My first one took three time before I got the hang of it.
good luck,

Dan

[Mr. T]

I am fixing to do some caulking around the front windshield.  The caulk is expensive.  Any ideas of how I could seal the caulk tube to preserve what I don't use.  Thanks in advance.


Don

[M & J]

I have used a nail, but if its a large opening, i've used a wirenut too.

[Mr. T]

I've used a nail before without a lot of luck.  The wire nut is a good idea.  I will do that.  Thank you!

[Stripe]

I put saran wrap on it then put a rubber band on it to keep it sealed..

[Wbago]

you can get tapered end lids to use, they fit tight, and theyre soft silicon rubber, so easy to clean, re-useable, dont get gummed up, etc ... ive had mine for years

Stripe - how long is the saran wrap good for? .. wont the solvents in the sealant eat it away?? :o

[Stripe]

 Hm? Hmm, Good question, never had to store a tube long enough..