Chrysler Electronic Ignition System

patriklprice · June 24, 2015, 02:02 PM

Ok, now I'm confused about the whole 0.5 ohm & 5 ohm resistor thing.
I bought the electronic conversion which includes the distributor, coil,
0.5 ohm single resister & ECU. Do I now just discard the old 4 prong ballast or do I still need the 5 ohm side?
Question 2
I still have the single field alternator & wanting b to change to the newer style that has 2 FLD Taps. If I change the alternator which has a built in voltage regulator, can I then remove the old voltage regulator by the ecu?

I have the 1977 Winnebago Chieftain that someone put a 400 engine in.

DaveVA78Chieftain · June 25, 2015, 07:15 PM

In order to answer you, I need the kit manufacturer and P/N that you purchased. Otherwise I am just guessing. Even an online web link would help.

Dave

patriklprice · June 25, 2015, 07:38 PM

I don't know but I was able to reuse the mechanics new distributor that has a lower honeycomb Chrysler look to it like the original & Im sure he got it from Napa. I got a duralast ecm from autozone that said it needed the seperate 1.5 ohm ballast resister & I installed that. The motor acts out of time & missing out but runs & I think when I took the pick up coil out of the new distributor for testing at the auto store & later re-installed it after they said it checked out good. I think that I didnt set the reluctor gap at 0.008. Gonna try that if its even adjustable. Going out now to see what I can do. Maybe the two distributor wires need reversed.
The new 5 ohm 4 prong combination & 1.5 ohm ballast resistor is mounted on just the 1.5 ohm side. The 5 ohm side I didnt hook up at all. Ive looked at several different schematics but their all confusing & show different ways to wire this circuit. Your above illustration confuses me because that ecu has 5 pins where as mine is a 4 pins so the 5th pin throws me off
Ready to pull my hair out.

patriklprice · June 25, 2015, 07:49 PM

What I did for the heck of it is I ordered a new Quality Chrysler replacement kit complete off Amazon but its not here yet. What I'm doing now is just trying to get it to run so that I can dump it on a real auto electrician mechanic to do all the proper splicing and details. In the end, he'll have it fixed right & I'll have an extra ecu & distributor. Its all crappy wired in now just to get it to him.
The tow company wanted $185 just to take it 6 miles so if I can get it running with just the $30 I've got in it then I've saved $170.

DaveVA78Chieftain · June 25, 2015, 08:35 PM

give me a short bit. I think I now understand what you have done

DaveVA78Chieftain · June 25, 2015, 08:44 PM

I think you have the incorrect ECM or you have a conversion that uses a GM ECM conversion. I need to see a picture of the ECM you have. Also, is there a Mfg and P/N written on it so I can ID it?

I take it you purchased MOPAR kit # P3690427 off Amazon for the 361-383-400 B Engines. Here is the manual for that kit: http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/elecignconv.pdf. That has a 5 pin ECM.

patriklprice · June 27, 2015, 12:57 PM

The 4 pin ecm that was installed by the mechanic has a number of
# 0030M08. It's shiny in color with a gold heat sink but went bad after the wire burned up. I later got an autozone 4 pin ecm made by Duralast part number CR109. It works off a 1.5 ohn resister but engine still backfires.
the Proffesional ecm kit I got from Amazon has not arrived yet.
what a mess!

patriklprice · June 27, 2015, 01:19 PM

Update! Looks like the alternator had a fld 1 & fld 2 connection after all but the two wires / female plug to it are missing! Only the one #6 battery wire is hooked up. What a mess I have!
I bought some wire, flex tubing & fittings to reinstall the alternator wire back to the voltage regulator. No wonder why the guy told me to disconnect the battery every night.
It's all worth it I guess considering the RV was free.