Roof Replacement Materials, Sources and How to's

[ibdilbert01]

Sent: 5/13/2007


My roof on my 72 has seen better days. So I spent the better half of yesterday removing the roof. I'm going to follow The_Handier_Mans example on curved trusses and plywood. I was thinking about using a rubber roof instead of aluminum.

Any resources on where to get materials? The wood, screws, glues ect I can get from a local lowes. But finding a place that sells rubber roofs or even aluminum roofs I've been having an issue.

What did the handier man use to fasten the plywood to the trusses? Glue and screws? I wondered about screwing the plywood as it might split or leave a bump on top of the wood that might wear through whatever roof material I use.

If anyone has any tips or suggestions on this project, I would be appreciative of any information.

[The_Handier_Man1]

Sent: 5/13/2007

To fasten the ply to truss I used deck screws (flat head "Deck Mate" screws).  They even say for marine use and are from Home Depot.  And a construction adhesive of your choice helps make a very strong joint.   The roofing I used is a liquid rubber material. They say 500% elastic.  Please E-Mail me if you have any questions as others have and remember this is not rocket science.  http://www.amesresearch.com/app_ss.htm is what I used for roofing, also from HD, and is a local Oregon company that really wanted me to use their stuff on commercial roofs too.  Never did that but would use it again on a MH.  Good luck,  Les

[Slantsixness]

Sent: 5/24/2007

Check out Tim's (Ibdilbert01) progression his photo album. What he's done so far looks really good!

Actually, it's amazing how much his roof job looks like mine from the inside! (of course, his is pretty much the same D20RG, so I would expect it to look similar!)
Tim's is an Early '72, with a 71 Chassis.. as you can see the tell-tale white steering wheel and the Flasher switch in the dash....

Thanks, Tim - it's nice to see someone rip into a Winnie, despite the fact that gas has gone over $3.00 a gallon almost everywhere.

Keep up the good work.
By the way, my drivers side wall by the front nose fell apart like that too... 4 hours later it was all new... Keep in mind that that 2X4 along the drivers wall at the inside floor stops at the bathroom wall, but there's another 2X4 at the trim line by the floor of the kitchen water heater, etc.., and they're both probably nothing but rot... not hard to fix, but believe me, there is an end to it!

Since your's appears to be about as rotted or worse than mine was, check the rear panel behind the bumper. I just looked at mine for a second, and it disintegrated in my hands. It's a quick and easy fix though, along with all the lumber along the lower trim line, which are 2X2's and a whole lotta liquid nails....

Also, disassemble the front nose if you can... I found pinhoels, grub worms, termites, you name it.. just behind the upper nose (below the windshields). All of my aluminum there was replaced, and since I'm terrible at bending aluminum, it's now 4 pieces, with an added trim piece at the corner. Hardly anyone has ever noticed that it's not original .

Tom

[ibdilbert01]

Sent: 5/26/2007

Thanks Slantsixness. I actually studied your pictures very closely before starting this project. I used your pictures and the Handier mans pictures as the basis for the new roof.

I found the 2x4 by the drivers side, I'll go around the whole rig this weekend and look for more rot. The pictures are actually making it look worse than what it is.

[Oz]

For souces of roofing option materials (EDPM rubber, aluminum sheets, etc.) check the Resources Section in the Members' Area.

Would like to see more detailed follow-up replies on this topic since it's a major one!