Ceiling & Roof Repaired!

[ClydesdaleKevin]

Sent: 4/18/2005 

The ceiling is fully repaired, and all of the water damage/rot is now eradicated.  All I need to do now is hang the new paneling on the ceiling.  I posted more pictures of the process in the "Ark, 1972 Futura" album.  The "first fitting" is the dry fitting of the new plywood and peiced-in trusses.  The new trusses were carefully marked where they meet the plywood.  Next, the new plywood and trusses were removed, and then the fun began.  The trusses were screwed to the plywood from the roof-side, following the marks made in the dry fitting.  The trusses were also glued using Liquid Nails for extra strength.  Next, thin water barrier insulation was glued to the plywood where it contacts the aluminum roof.  The hard part was refitting the complete ceiling as a unit, as it was now one big peice complete with trusses all attached to the new plywood.  Once everything was in place, it was all screwed back together, and every peice liberally coated with Liquid Nails wherever they contacted each other.  Its hard to see from the pictures, but in addition to the T and L brackets and whatnot, 3 inch screws also hold the patched trusses together from the sides.  The final step was glueing all the new styrofoam insulation in place after it was cut to fit.  Looking good and strong as the oak it was made with!  More pictures to follow of the ceiling once the plywood is hung. 

Kev and Patti Smith

[ClydesdaleKevin]

Sent: 4/18/2005

Being retired is hard work!  The entire ceiling is now done and in place.  I used thin paneling as the finish plywood because it was light and stiff.  I made sure it was white, not stained, so that no stain could ever leech through to the "popcorn" covering my wife will be installing.  I used the Heavy Duty Liquid Nailed to coat everything, and hundreds of stainless steel staples.  Good as new!  I'll post more pictures once its covered, and of the ongoing roof scraping (darn PO!) of the nasty silver crud they put on it.  Once the roof is scraped, primed, sealed with KoolSeal elastomer coating, and the new vents, covers, and AC unit is in place, I post another pic.  This is grueling!...lol

Kev and Patti Smith

[70winnie]

Sent: 4/19/2005

But you love doing it, no?

[ClydesdaleKevin]

Sent: 4/21/2005

It certainly is keeping be busy...being retired is hard work!...lmao.  I just finished scraping all the old stuff off the roof...it took me almost 2 full days!  Ever find yourself wishing that a previous owner would have to smoke a cat turd in hell?...hehee.  Anyhow, we just washed the whole roof down with TSP and will get the primer coat up if the rain will just hold off for another couple of hours.

Kev and Patti Smith

[ClydesdaleKevin]

Sent: 4/21/2005 

She's all primed and ready for the seam sealant!  I bought a bunch of tubes of Kool Seal seam sealant to fill the seams and a couple of small holes here and there.  It takes 6 hours to dry, so I put it off since the weather report said it was supposed to rain any time...6 hours later, I'm typing this, the stars are still out, and still no rain...maybe the weathermen are related to the PO?...lmao.  Anyhow, she's covered for the rain (no roof vents or AC are installed yet).  Once I get a dry day (supposedly this Sunday), I'll seal the seams and holes, let it dry, and then apply several coats of Kool Seal elastomer roof coating.  I bought the "good" stuff that is supposed to last 10 years and even be resistant to pooled water as long as you prime it first...but at 70 bucks for 5 gallons, I wish I had gone to Lowes first:  They sell the same brand, Kool Seal, in 5 gallon buckets, that is the "5 year" variety, for 35 bucks!  Since I'm going to re-roof the Ark within the next few years, this would have been more economical...oh well! 

Its supposed to rain for the next couple of days, so the roof is on hold, and I'll try to get some inside stuff done, like wiring in the new generator and putting in the new sewer valve.  I'll post some pictures of my shower pan fiberglass overlay when I get to that project.

Kev and Patti Smith

[ClydesdaleKevin]

Sent: 4/22/2005 

The seams are all sealed, the new powered vents and new AC are all in place, and the two new drainage/toilet vents and refrigerator vents are all screwed down with new screws and putty tape.  Skies are looking ominous, so we covered her up.  Supposed to rain tomorrow, but Sunday to Wednesday are supposed to be nice.  The roof will get its coats of new Kool Seal elastomer coating, all the roof vents and whatnot will get silicone sealed, and I can mark that part of the project DONE! 

Kev and Patti Smith

[Plainobob1]

Sent: 4/22/2005 

Hey Kev,
im learning a lot from your pictures and notes .going to put kool seal on my roof as sone as it stops raining .I see that you primed yours , didnt know you should prime ----what did you use ?        thanks for all the pictures ---plaino bob

[ClydesdaleKevin]

Sent: 4/23/2005 

Hey plaino Bob,

I was going to prime it with Kool Seal primer, but couldn't find a source to buy it in anything bigger that a gallon.  I ended up using Kilz Exterior water base, since its essentially the same thing as the Kool Seal primer, and I could buy in in a five gallon bucket (I still have to prime the entire exterior, plus all the cabinets and paneling inside, and since Kilz is a stain-blocker, it will keep anything from bleeding through to the new paint and wallpaper).

You don't have to prime with Kool Seal, but if you have even a small change of pooling water, than you should definately prime it first.  Pooling water tends to lift unprimed Kool Seal away from the surface.  If you only need enough for the roof, just get a gallon of the Kool Seal primer.  Its about the same price as Kilz by the gallon...but like I said I needed at least 5 gallons.

Yer welcome for the pictures...it gives me a benchmark as I go forward with this project.  Like I said in the notes, this is a temp fix, and the roof really should be replaced...but hopefully this will get me about 5 leak-free years until I get around to totally replacing the roof with slightly arched trusses and a rubber roof sheet.

I'm pretty much a hacker, but even if its ugly, at least what I build is pretty strong.  Wait until you see the pictures I'm going to post when my WIFE is finished with HER side of the project!  She's already re-upholstered all the cushions, made gorgeous drapes for the bedroom, and made a new privacy curtain for the front windshield.  THAT was a big project, with what seemed like a million pinch-pleats...lol.  She's in charge of papering the ceiling, wallpapering, putting in the new carpets and linoleum, re-covering the dash and captains chairs, the curtains, and all the decorating.  I'm in charge of the roof, wiring, mechanicals, and all the painting, inside and out (she's dangerous with a paintbrush...lol).

Her work is top-notch...she is good enough with a sewing machine to be called a professional.  She's also expert at wallpapering and laying carpet and linoleum, although I'll be called in for the muscle-parts of those jobs.  Yeah...she makes me look like a rank amatuer in comparison...lmao.

Kev and Patti Smith

[ClydesdaleKevin]

Sent: 4/23/2005

Plaino-Bob,

One final thing:  The main reason I felt so compelled to prime the roof first is that I spent nearly two days scraping almost all of the old coatings off, and most of the roof was almost down to the bare metal, all the way down to the original white paint.

If you are applying a coat of Kool Seal to what's already up there, then primer isn't really necessary.  However, if you have the silvery aluminum fibrous crap all over your roof like I did, you'd be well-advised to scrape it all off (it comes right off, thus the reason its crap, and doesn't seal worth a darn).  I have never hated another human being in my life, but I strongly dislike the previous owner(s)...lol.

Kev and Patti Smith

[ClydesdaleKevin]

Sent: 4/23/2005

Plaino-bob,

One more final thing...lol.

Whether or not you prime it, make SURE that you clean it thoroughly first with TSP.  Try to find the REAL TSP, not the new "enviro-weenie" imitation stuff.  Real TriSodium Phosphate, mixed correctly, will clean the whole roof, ALL the dirt and grime and mildew and grease and whatnot, on the first shot (use a scrub brush), and when you rinse it with the hose it will rinse right off, taking all the dirt with it, and it leaves absolutely no residue behind...it rinses quick, clean as a whistle and ready to paint.

Again, accept no subsitutes for any painting job:  Only real TSP.

Kev and Patti Smith

[Oz]

Sent: 4/23/2005 

Our local Lowe's has the 5 gallon buckets of Kool Seal primer and top coat.  Don't know if they carry it at all locations, but it's worth a call.

[Plainobob1]

Sent: 4/24/2005

hey kev,
thanks for all the info ,after scraping around one of the vent openings I did notice that the gray stuff was coming right up but i looked around (after scraping the sides and back ) for eternabond tape and dint think anymore about it . I HATE SILACONE After reading your words Im having second thoughts .Guess ill have to go buy a wider paint scraper and give it a good going over > As you i'll be glade to get 5 wet years out of her .

Hummmm wall paper--goin to have to swing that one bye the little lady.  Did the tsp leave lines down the side of your winnie?  I got the tsp that comes in a bottle its green.

I've been focused on the roof so the inside wont get worse. Just seems like so many things to do ---lol Ive been reading also on resealing the windows but cant see what everone is talking about but as soon as I take one apart Im sure it will all come to me .

I really should add some more pictures -- i keep forgeting the camera

plainobob

[ClydesdaleKevin]

Sent: 4/24/2005

plainobob,

The green "TSP" is the imitation stuff.  It works, but not as well and doesn't rinse as clean as the real stuff...which comes in a white powder.

When I washed the roof, it left some streaks on the side.  But as soon as the roof is completely done, I'm washing the sides anyways and they are getting painted...wooo hooooo!

The windows, at least on mine, are a simple affair.  You unscrew all the screws on the inside frame (make sure someone is standing outside to catch the window in case it comes loose...it probably won't if it has never been removed before, but ya never know, and it would suck to have to try to find a replacement!).  Remove the inside frame, and theoretically, the you can push the window out from the inside, while your helper on the outside eases it out.  Sometimes ya have to coax them with a putty knife, since they get stuck after so many years.

After the window is removed, clean all the old putty tape off the window and the body, and then put on new tape.  Clean off all the old silicone and sealers while you are at it.

Put the window back in with its new tape, and with your helper pushing in on it from the outside, screw your frame back on.

Next, lay a nice bead of silicone around the windows to seal out any water, and voila, you are done, the right way.  The alternative is to just chalk the hell out of it after removing the old silicone.

Hope that helps!  Think of your windows as big roof vents...they seal the same way, with putty tape, and silicone is the insurance.

Kev and Patti Smith

[54PrairieSchooner]

Sent: 5/5/2005

Kevin, thanks for a great post on roof repair. I want to keep my roof on my Brave without ripping it off and starting over. Mine is fine, except the flimsy 1X3s used for rafters tend to sag/bow over time and I have a few low spots here and there. (See Page 8 for pictures). I have a particularly bad low spot on the left rear. I might try your idea of embedding a 2X4 or 1 X 4 frame above each of the rear quarter windows and anchoring some sort of beefier truss across this area to push the back of the roof back up. 

John

[ClydesdaleKevin]

Sent: 5/10/2005

Finally, the roof is now DONE! 

Hours of scraping.

Several tubes of Kool Seal seam sealer and silicone.

New AC.

New Fridge vent.

2 new toilet vents.

New powered roof vents.

Aero-flo vent covers.

5 gallons and 7 coats of Kool Seal Premium roof coating.

Its finally done!...well...still gotta put up the roof rack, but that can't go up until my redneck ladder is replaced with the new ladder...which can't be put on until I paint the outside back of the Ark.

Woooohoooooooo! 

And she went through the storm we had the other day with 40 mph winds and downpouring rains for two days...with no leaks.

Yep...the roof is DONE!

Kev and Patti Smith

[Plainobob1]

Sent: 5/16/2005 

looks great   are the vent caps a real pain , I'm thinking about doing them also mine are like all built up with this black stuff .They dont look like to much to do how bout cost 

[ClydesdaleKevin]

Sent: 5/16/2005 

The vent caps are really easy, and are only about 6 bucks apeice.  First you remove the old ones after chipping away years of crud away from the screws that hold them down....lol.  If you've already sealed your roof, use a razor knife to cut the sealer in a circle right at the flange that attaches to the roof...you don't want to pull up any of your new coating! 

Then carefully, using a putty knife, pry the vent off the old putty tape, and then clean all the old putty tape off the roof.

Put a circle of new putty tape under your new vent, put it in place, and screw it down...easy as pie.

Use your favorite roof sealer around the base of the new vent before you lay a bead of silicone around it.  Nothing sticks to silicone, but it will stick to anything...I still haven't figured out the physics of THAT one yet...lol.

Thanks for the compliment!

Kev and Patti Smith

[Oz]

A suggestion:  whenever possible, instead of using silicon, use Eternabond tape. 

[wizardbill]

"Her work is top-notch...she is good enough with a sewing machine to be called a professional.  She's also expert at wallpapering and laying carpet and linoleum, although I'll be called in for the muscle-parts of those jobs.  Yeah...she makes me look like a rank amatuer in comparison...lmao."

Kevin, isn't that part of her job?  (Just wondering, Adrienne is the same way, great work, humbling, really)