Steer gear leaking

[Clyde9]

From: tatkin  (Original Message)
Sent: 7/24/2007 8:15 PM

A tank of gas that way and again this way. There really wasn't any wind on the way but this rig was pretty much 1 handed driving the whole route. I noticed I am loosing steer fluid , right out of the bottom of the saginaw steer gear. Just a drip at a time. There is a ? O/C type clip then a plate and I believe a rubber O ring under that. I am afraid to try and pop that stuff out as I believe there are ball bearing just inside there. I am thinking about JB weld around the bottom.  Seeing as the steering seems usable/tight and I have no plans on pulling that gear out.



From: denandgigi
Sent: 7/26/2007 1:59 AM

Are you sure that you're not loosing it from the top seal? It is a common problem in the older Winnies, and sometimes the whole box is covered, making it hard to tell. As far as I remember, when I rebuilt mine in College, that round back plate is held in with a snap ring of sorts, and there is a huge power piston is directly behind that, which has three sealing rings (like piston rings, only made of plastic composite). It would seem to me that if fluid is coming out of the back of the box, it because the rings are worn enough to allow power steering fluid to "blow by" them. So, that's my story and I'm sticking to it.



From: tatkin
Sent: 7/26/2007 6:24 AM

Not from the top or a hose.  I used the creeper to lay under there and watched and wiped everything off.  The only place that produced oil while wiping was the bottom of the gear.   It is coming out of that plate on the bottom.   I mentioned it is a big C clip that holds that bottom plate on.   Right where there is a gap in that C clip is where the drip is... 



From: denisondc
Sent: 7/26/2007 1:43 PM

I think the JB Weld epoxy will only make it harder to dismantle and fix. There arent any ball bearings or balls behind it that will fall out.
I would try to remove that 'C' ring, get the rounded end cap off - and replace the O ring behind it. There is a small hole in the side of the main housing near the end, located at the spot facing the rear of the vehicle. This is so you can use a small steel rod to push the C ring up, to where you can get a screwdriver blade under it. It works best if the 'gap' in the C ring is near the hole. In the Service Manual it says you can push that rounded end cap off by -carefully- turning the steering shaft counter-clockwise. But only 'just enough' to get the end cap off. If you turn it too far you will be letting some of the recirculating balls fall out of the 'track'. (To put them back you have to remove and disassemble the steering box!) But turning the steering shaft would mean having both front wheels off the ground.
Since the steering box is still in place on the motorhome, I would support a bucket up close below the steering box; and start the engine. If that didnt push the end cap off, I would turn the steering wheel slightly until it dropped. The space between that rounded end cap and the 'piston-rack' sees hydraulic pressure - up to 400 psi when turning corners, and nearly 1300 psi if turning the wheels while parking. I would expect an oily mess.
But I would make sure I could get a new -O- ring first. My best local hardware store has them in a range of sizes, not sure if they would have ones 3-1/2' or 3-5/8" though. I would put the O ring into a dish and cover it with power steering fluid - to see if it swelled up in a couple of days. If it did swell, I would probably have to get the 'kit' with the proper seals/-o-rings in it. I got such a kit a few years back for another Saginaw steering unit. I remember there was more than one kit - and they were not cheap! I'm sure the 'kits' are still available - there are many tens of thousands of the Saginaw steering boxes on vehicles. The one on the Winnebago is a Sagniaw model 708.



From: tatkin
Sent: 7/26/2007 10:57 PM

I agree , the  jb weld might be over kill. What scares me is taking the gear apart. If the whole kit falls out into a bucket , sheeet, geeeeze etc ...

I am now thinking/looking/researching silicone sealants ...

Or ?



From: tatkin
Sent: 7/27/2007 4:48 PM

Well I bought this stuff called SealAll , it says "Gas and Oil" on the tube.  I think a few days of putting it on will be needed.  Time will tell I guess.  I will let you know ...



From: tatkin
Sent: 7/28/2007 8:44 PM

Well this SealAll isn't working out, today anyway.   The drip from the gear does
not allow the sealall to stick.  I have applied it about 4 layers and it is not staying.

Maybe if I let the gear run dry.

Now I am thinking about a hose slamp and a piece of rubber that I could clamp
over the bottom.

More later. 



From: tatkin
Sent: 7/30/2007 11:03 PM

A piece of rubber material , about 1/16 thick.  With a hose clamp to hold it in place, around the bottom of the steering gear.  Got it at ACE hardware. I won't know if it will vibrate off until the next outing.  Whenever that may be ...

If it works , about a couple of spoons of oil will be trapped in there.



From: tatkin
Sent: 11/25/2007 10:28 AM

You would have to see this ? setup/fix . I have not even drove the rig for a couple of months. That rubber piece and hose clamp I put on are keeping the steer gear from leaking on the drive. The thing is , it is starting to look like a water balloon , filled with power steering fluid.



From: Jerry
Sent: 11/25/2007 8:54 PM

   You might want to try this idea first. How about drill hole to smallest pop rivet size, and then put a small flat rubber washer on pop rivet and install. If not rubber washer just silicone. The rivet should expand tight enough to seal it up. Just make sure rivet isn't too long. I think that plug is only the thickness of a freeze plug 1/8-3/32. I have fixed buckets and metal containers like this......Just  a thought!



From: tatkin
Sent: 11/30/2007 9:15 AM


I am actually thinking of ? something like the bottom of a tin can cut an inch or 2 from the bottom . Hose clamp that on over the rubber I put on and THAT should eliminate the water balloon occurrence I created ...