Overhead bed sags down on one side

MaitaiMacaw · April 30, 2010, 02:15 AM

Sent: 11/6/2005

I hope I can explain this okay--I have the scissor type of front bed and on the right side the bed has no tension on it and hangs down a lot more than the left side. Is there some kind of tension adjustment? Just bought this '84 Chieftain and now fixing all the problems that we didn't see!

denisondc · April 30, 2010, 02:15 AM

Sent: 11/7/2005

I am guessing there is a spring that is broken or disconnected. Hopefully a fairly standard hardware-store-kind of spring. It could also be the pivots for the levers need a drop of oil each.

ClydesdaleKevin · April 30, 2010, 02:17 AM

Sent: 11/8/2005

Its sounds just like Denison said...The spring is either broken (very unlikely since it is a VERY heavy and thick spring) or disconnected. In order to replace/reconnect the spring, however, you are going to have to take the whole bed down. First, take HEAVY zip ties (use the heaviest zip ties you can find, and use a lot of them...those springs are STRONG!), and with the bed in the fully up position, zip tie the scissor arms together to keep them from springing apart when to take them down. Next, unscrew the wooden bed platform, remove it from the scissor frame, and set it aside (Its been a while since I did this, and now that I'm thinking of it, you may have to pull the bed down as a first step, remove the platform, let the frame spring carefully back to the UP position, and then use the zip ties). Now you need a helper. With the helper holding the frame to keep it from falling, unscrew both sides...you don't have to separate the two ends...just take it down as one big unit. Inspect the springs on both sides. Reconnect or replace the one on the side that's not working, using the working side as a comparison as to how it attaches. While you have it down, try to figure out WHY it became disconnected, and take measures to keep it from happening again...you'll have to use your own creativity here. Once fixed, have your helper hold the frame back in place while you screw it back to the walls, using the original screw holes. Reattach the wooden platform, and you should be all set!

We don't use ours as a bed, but rather use the platform to store our bicycle trailers when traveling. Since the weight of the trailers and their size keeps the bed from closing fully, we put a plastic furniture leg cup on the bottom of the bed, one on floor, and use an expanding shower curtain rod to keep the thing from rattling or creeping down while we're driving.

Hope this helps!

Kev

DaveVA78Chieftain · April 30, 2010, 02:18 AM

Sent: 11/8/2005

When Kev says strong he means like garage door spring strong. Use every bit of caution you can muster and then double it. The bed pan itself is also heavy, very heavy (2 person lift). The bar that runs from side to side syncs the 2 sides together. It also means the spring force from the opposite side is felt at the side your working on.

Dave

jbmhotmail · April 30, 2010, 02:19 AM

Sent: 11/13/2005

If you are talking about the fwd overhead bed, my 85 chieftain has gas rams (also called gas shocks or gas springs), anyway there is a really good repair article "Winnebago drop-down bed gas shocks" with photos at: http://www.rv.net/forum/Index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/14065860/gotomsg/14130576.cfm#14130576 that explains the replacement of the gas rams in detail with part numbers and a total repair cost of $27.86.
Hope this helps.
Jerry

MaitaiMacaw · April 30, 2010, 02:20 AM

Sent: 11/14/2005

Thanks for all the information. I was hoping that it was something easy! I keep looking at the bed and decided to put it on hold for now; we won't be going anywhere this winter anyway.. But I haven't given up yet, the thing looks awful hanging down.

We replaced the front air bags over the weekend, love those "easy installations" that took us 2 days to do. Now on to the next little problem.
We've owned a couple of Winnies' so we're able to fix most things ourselves. And you do need to be a mechanic if you own a motorhome
Judy

Oz · April 30, 2010, 02:21 AM

Sent: 11/16/2005

Oh, you want something cheap and easy! Well, that's my area... how to do something with little or no knowledge or money... yup, that's me...

Same problem here... and when driving, a real problem when you hit bumps... you get hit on the head with the bed and constantly have to be pushing it back up with one hand. My right arm has one really huge tricep from that workout!

Anyway... get two medium size slide bolts from the hardware store, about 3" or 4" long, but no more than 2" wide (I think... measure first) and install one on each end of the bed frame at the side facing the rear of the rig. You can use the existing steel framing for it to rest on, drill holes for the bolts to slide into, or add rests for them.

This will hold the bed up evenly when not in use. When in use, it will hang all the way down on both ends anyway.

I'll try to grab a picture of mine tonight after work and post it here.

- CheapandEasySob

ClydesdaleKevin · April 30, 2010, 02:23 AM

Sent: 11/24/2005

Awesome idea, Mark! That is a lot better than my shower curtain rod solution. While the rod keeps the bed from coming down, it only supports it in the middle and allows side to side rocking, and thus rattling! I'm gonna do it when I get a chance!

Kev

MaitaiMacaw · April 30, 2010, 02:24 AM

Sent: 12/19/2005

Thanks for the pictures Mark. I got my slide bolts and L brackets, now if I just can get a warm day to finish up the job. We keep the MH in a building and it's colder inside there then it is outside. I had to fix a leak at the hot water tank. Discovered it when winterizing, the two hose clamps on the heat exchange were both loose. No way to get directly to the tank, had to work from the side and try to squeeze into that little cabinet opening! Hope that was the problem, seems almost too easy.
Judy

Oz · April 30, 2010, 02:25 AM

Sent: 12/19/2005

Glad to help in the small ways I can, Judy. - Sob

ClydesdaleKevin · April 30, 2010, 02:26 AM

Sent: 7/7/2006

This sort of answers my question to Mark...lol...except the pictures don't show on my computer (just little squares with X's), and Mark didn't say which hardware store he got them at. The only ones they had at Home Despot and Lowes are the flimsy brass ones, or the great big ugly barrel bolts.

Kev

Slantsixness · April 30, 2010, 02:27 AM

Sent: 7/7/2006

I'm in the process of installing a pull down bunk in my winnie (a 7'6" 72 D20 and yes, the bunk has to be shortened 3"side to side...). Anyway, While we were up at the magic junkyard, My wife and I found an ingenious little latch system.... on a 79 Brave... it's two seat belt clips that attach to the bunk rail, and matching adjustable seat belts that attach to the ceiling, of course they will mount either way, but I'd sbe worried someone (my daughter) would hit their head if the latches were on the ceiling, so I'll put them on the edge rail, and secure the straps to the ceiling with a clip to store them in.

My bunk has the locking slide latches on the sides already, but they will only function in the "up" position, or wherever else I want to put the bolt receiver above the side windows.

the hardest part so far is shortening the rear stabilizer bar. I'm not a very good welder, and I hate to have to do it twice... I'm just a chicken.... go ahead, strike the arc... it'll be ok....

Weldingly-Challenged-Tom

DaveVA78Chieftain · April 30, 2010, 02:28 AM

Sent: 7/7/2006

Tom,
A PO had done the seat belt trick on mine. All I got for it was the ceiling got pulled down (sag). I do not recommend that approach. Bed weight pulls it down. I had to install a 2 x 6 convex header to push the ceiling back up. Use the sliding bolt approach. Big ones like used on a horse stall (farm store or old fashion hardware store).

Dave

Slantsixness · April 30, 2010, 02:29 AM

Sent: 7/7/2006

Dave,
Thanks. I hadn't thought of that, I have wood rafters and an arched roof, so I believe I might get by with a piece of hardwood across the ceiling attached to the rafter. But It might not work... still a work in progress!

Tom

ClydesdaleKevin · April 30, 2010, 02:30 AM

Sent: 7/8/2006

I need to use a pretty strong and tight latching system, so the seatbelt idea is a no-go. I was using a bathroom shower rod, but they are flimsy and keep breaking only supports the bed in one place...

Oh...by the way, the reason I need a VERY strong and secure system like Mark's is because we don't use it as a bed, we use it as overhead storage for some of our Renaissance gear! Swords, daggers, a brigadine, longbows and arrows, leather goods, various other items that need to stay dry and in a controlled environment so they don't rust/mildew. I was storying the bicycle trailers up there too, but now one gets stored in the van, and the other is going to be a gift for a good friend.

Anyhow, I'll let you all know what I come up with to secure the "armory"...lol.

Kev

jkilbert · April 30, 2010, 06:44 AM

in my 77 brave both the front and rear overhead bunks have the seatbelt latch on them

chezhed · May 18, 2010, 03:43 PM

My overhead bunk is secured with some "snazzy" locking clamps. I posted pics in my gallery and the forward looking one will give you an idea of them if you can zoom in. If you need detail, let me know. They need some "adjustment" though I just found out, the hard way. Crossed a really bad RR track and down it came. But the concept is good.