318 Rebuild, Installation & Costs

LJ-TJ · June 22, 2010, 07:27 AM

Next I removed the trim piece between the upper and lower grill.

LJ-TJ · June 22, 2010, 07:33 AM

Four self taping screws were extracted in order to remove the lower grill.

LJ-TJ · June 22, 2010, 07:44 AM

With the removell of four more self taping screws the upper grill is removed.

LJ-TJ · June 22, 2010, 07:50 AM

Next I removed the grill latch so as to have nothing protruding into the grill opening.

LJ-TJ · June 22, 2010, 09:09 AM

It's out! :)rotflmao It's out!

It's out!

I'm so dam excited I forgot to take Pictures.

Golly. But I did screw up. But I'll tell ya about it when I settle down. Eeeeehaaa

LJ-TJ · June 24, 2010, 07:15 AM

OK so next was to remove the Washer Fluid Jug and Bracket.

LJ-TJ · June 24, 2010, 07:20 AM

Next to come out was the Rad over flow tank from under the passengers side wheel well.

LJ-TJ · June 24, 2010, 07:29 AM

Remove the U-bolt that holds the Oil Tube and Dip Stick to the Rad.

You can now remove the radiator bracket bolts on the frame on both sides.

You have to detach the fan shroud first. Set it back over the Fan and then lift the rad out.
Be prepared the rad is heavy.

LJ-TJ · June 24, 2010, 07:44 AM

Next your going drain the fluid out of the Rad. Once completed remove both upper and lower rad hoses. Also undo both transmission cooling lines from the lower part of the rad. If you can pick up a set of inexpensive line wrenches. It will save you a lot of grief from rounding the nuts on the transmission lines as well as twisting the lines..

LJ-TJ · June 26, 2010, 09:10 AM

Well! There she is in all her glory. It almost seems like it's worth pulling the rad when you have to work on the Engine. It gives you tons of room and easy access to almost everything.

LJ-TJ · June 26, 2010, 09:53 AM

If you look to the bottom left of the picture of the engine you'll see the canister. It's the next to go.

LJ-TJ · June 26, 2010, 10:04 AM

Power Steering pumps the next to go.

Fluid line connections to the steering gear:

The power steering Pump and lines removed:

LJ-TJ · June 26, 2010, 10:12 AM

Fan and Pulley next.

Froggy1936 · June 26, 2010, 10:33 AM

TIP. TJ now is the time to replace the rad fan clutch assy (and you can paint the fan blade wile its off) You can see how much trouble it is to get back to the fan clutch when it goes bad . Congratulations on provideing the detailed process 37 days left Frank

LJ-TJ · June 26, 2010, 08:57 PM

Good idea Frank. Thanks. I'll look in to that. With everything you have to think of and keep track of you always miss something. I'm really amazed at how easy this has been so far. Especially since I really have no mechanical skills. I'm really hoping this helps out some of the younger fellows that don't have a lot of money but find themselves in a position of having to replace an engine and can't afford it, or maybe even have to sell there rig because of it. This can be done way way cheaper than the way I'm doing it. But hopfully shows how to do it.

Oz · June 28, 2010, 11:21 PM

Ok, we're getting a good pictorial of the motor, but the title of this topic is "318 rebuild costs". Where's the cost breakdown?

LJ-TJ · June 28, 2010, 11:24 PM

Stand By it's coming

I should be getting the bill Friday

LJ-TJ · June 29, 2010, 09:03 AM

1 Dismantle Engine $80.00
1 Clean Engine $199.00
8 Bore Cylinders $36.00 $288.00
8 Fit Piston Pins $14.50 $116.00
8 Install Valve Seats NC
16 Install Valve Guides $8.00 $128.00
1 Grind Crank $148.00
1 Aline Main $200.00
1 Install Cam $ 65.00
8 Machine Con. Rods $18.00 $144.00
1 Assemble Engine $600.00
2 Surface Cylinder Heads $60.00 $121.00
1 Surface Cylinder Block $120.00
2 Surface Ex Manifolds NC
2 Recondition Cylinder Heads $223.00
1 Engine Run In & Tune, Change Oil $800.00
1 Engine Kit $776.52
16 Push Rods $4.00 $ 64.00
8 Exhaust Valves $22.36 $178.88
8 Intake Valves $26.00 $208.00
8 Exhaust Springs $ 5.00 $ 40.00
8 Intake Springs $3.00 $ 24.00
32 Valve Locks $ .30 $ 9.60
1 Pump Shaft $ 43.92
1 Rebuilt Carb $225.00
Balance & Blue Print NC
Total With All Applicable Taxes $ 5,426.16

Oz · June 29, 2010, 09:52 AM

Wow, didn't realize how much valve train components cost! Note the expense of "engine run-in" and "Clean engine". These, for someone who has the ability to do so are items which can reduce the cost significantly. Of course, the run-in phase is extremely important to insure all the work has been done correctly and to identify anything amiss before re-installation.

ClydesdaleKevin · June 29, 2010, 10:15 AM

Wow! That was expensive, eh? Isn't it cheaper to buy an already rebuilt crate engine from someone like Jasper? Especially for the 318? Or would you recommend a rebuild because of the unique motorhome application...in other words, because the cam is different for lower torque?

Are there any other differences in the rebuilt motor and a crate motor that makes it worth the extra price?

Kev

LJ-TJ · June 29, 2010, 11:15 AM

Well there's know doubt that it was expensive and certainly caught me of guard. However weither it's right or wrong, smart or stupid a good deal or a bad deal everyone now has a bench mark to work from. These are real numbers. Do I feel like a fool. Well it's a lot more money than I had so I guess the proof is in the running. It is what it is. We'll see. As I'm sure you can see there are a lot of places were one can save money. But again now you have some real numbers to work from.

ibdilbert01 · June 29, 2010, 12:15 PM

TJ, when its all said and done, your going to have a very reliable rig that will last for a very long time. And if you can, keep posting the pictures, it lets the rest of us know what were getting into if we have to pull ours out.

LJ-TJ · June 29, 2010, 01:38 PM

Good stuff. I can say that if you take your time and are careful it is a one man job. I say this as I am currently bolting in the rad today as soon as I sign off. Which means....gotta go..the lady awaits.

fabricator john · June 29, 2010, 09:41 PM

this engine is no comparason to a jasper or other mass produced rebuild ,a hand built engine takes real parts and real man hours to do the money sounds right on the mark for a real deal quality rebuild ,add port and polish ,micro balance ,hi comp pistons and rad cam and its a race engine ,,,no diffrence...you get what ya pay for ,,,quality costs ...im in the industry ...it does.................................fabricator john

RV Mech Tech · June 29, 2010, 11:13 PM

TJ- fabricator john is right- there is no comparison - I worked for an automotive machine shop for 11 years and I rebuilt and installed hand built engines like yours and also mass produced rebuilds - the return rate on the mass produced engines was about 30% - know what its like to install a crate engine and then have to pull it back out again because a cylinder was smoking or the engine would not run correctly (how about a timing chain that was not installed correctly and the camshaft timing was off?) or no oil pressure in the engine??? (that's the one I like!!) -these companies (not all of them) allow you only so much time to re& re the engine (that you just installed) and to fix the problem and in many cases the time allowed was less than a new engine warranty repair time from the auto manufactures- with one company we ended up sending the customer to them (they had there own repair shop (that should tell you something) because they claimed we were making too any warranty claims- as fabricator john says you only get what you pay for - what you have is a hand machined, built, assembled and test run engine that will give you many hours of service- with a mass produced engine you do not have any idea of what they did or did not replace - the cheaper the cost the less they replaced - how about a rebuilt engine that has 6 new pistons and two original pistons because the two are within factory wear tolerance? - happens all the time- and the machine shop let you see what they were doing including the assembly AND they did not charge you for the installation of the valve seats, machining the exhaust manifolds and balancing and blueprinting the engine assembly (balancing and blueprinting starts at $500.00 and goes up from there- you not only got a DEAL but an engine that was rebuilt by someone who is qualified for that job - a modern day engine rebuild done by hand starts at around 3-4000 (4 cylinder) - 5000 and up for a V-8 - you have had everything done to properly recondition the engine and extra (balancing and blueprinting - might be a good idea to give this shop a good review on www.rvservicereviews.com - good luck with your installation and let us know how it turns out!