Emerald 1 Generator 4k - Replaced Points, Now it wont start!

[fgutie35]

Just like the title says, I replaced the points and condenser on my Emerald 1 Genset 4K and now I don't get a spark at the plugs. The only thing different I did was to reposition the condenser. On the manual shows a picture of the condenser being inside the points box. Mine was outsite attached to the bolt that fastens the long ceramic tube which seems to be a resistor and the wire went straight to the coil. A white wire comes from the same post on the coil and goes to the points. There was no treading on the hole where supposedly the condenser was to go according to the manual, so I use a tap and die tool to make one and afix the condenser there. I adjusted the gap and lifted back the genny. Put the oil back in, but in the process I lost some oil. it is about 1/8" below the full mark now. I crancked the engine with a screw driver stucked inside the plug wire boot and close to a metal ground. It only throws a spark at the beginning of pushing the start button and at the end when I let go. So What Did I Do Wrong???  i??

[RV Mech Tech]

fgutie35 - disconnect the condenser and try and start the engine- if it starts you have a defective condenser-  if  not then recheck your point gap adjustment - also watch the plunger to see if it has enough vertical travel - get your Spec # and make sure you use the specs for your model - if you cannot find the specs  in the resource listing then go to www.perr.com ( also in the resource list)  and click on the Onan link (lower left)  it will have the older and newer model specs listings and technical descriptions - also once you set the points wipe the  point contact surfaces with an alcohol based cleaner before you start it  (rubbing alcohol will do ) to get any oil or film off of the point surfaces - your point gap will determine the timing of the engine and that's why the different point gap specs between models - also check the wire going to the points - is it good condition or not? it may look good on the outside but could be usually that wire is a multi-strand wire and some strands could break  if its brittle just by disturbing it  -happened to many mechanics when they still used points in engines - also check the wires going to the coil for the same reason - you don't have a lot of room to work in there so get a strong light and mirror so that you can check in behind to see what's going on - you can use the Onan manual Mark downloaded as a general guideline even if your spec number is not in their and use the specs from the Perr - let us know what you find. -  Hm?

[fgutie35]

Thank you very much for your advice. I will put the old condenser and see if it runs(the reason why I changed the points and condenser, was because the contacts were little bit pitted but it still worked). I will also try to position the new condenser where the old one was. I read ealrier today the after Sep. 1987, Onan changed the position of the condenser from inside the points box, to outside close to the coil (maybe that is why the points base was not even treaded fo a screw! You are right, is hard to see in there, so I'm not sure if the plunger was at its highest when I set the gap. In my Operators Manual, calls for .016" or .41mm. I will let you know what happens!

[RV Mech Tech]

fgutie35 -  the purpose of the condenser is to act as a 'shock absorber' for the points- without it you will get arcing at the point surfaces and the points won't last very long without it but you can disconnect it temporarlly - you have the earlier series Onan  (refer to the manual in the member  area resource list or  www.perr.com charts) and that point gap in your owners manual seems a bit small - according to Onan it should be between .020 and .025 depending on what model and spec # you have but there may have been change to the specification for your specific application - keep in mind that owners manuals are not always correct (even to this day in both cars/trucks and RV's) so double check with the service  manual in the members area and/ or the Perr list - always use the model and spec number when ordering parts as one type of generator is used for several different applications and installations (such as service trucks, emergency vehicles etc.)  and the specifications may be different between the  models (model number indicates where the generator is intended for for service and the spec # indicates what specifications to use and what wiring diagrams to use for that application) - this is the same for and especially the late models that have electronic control modules with the same wiring connectors - the connectors look the same but the pin (position) assignment may be different between two identical generators .

[fgutie35]

Thank you very much. I will follow your advice and check on the proper gap. I would like to ask you a question not related to this subject, but I will open another post for that. I don't want to make Mark's job harder.

[RV Mech Tech]

fgutie35 -  the specification for the BGE Spec 'F' is point gap - 016 so I was incorrect on the .020 - .025 figure  (this is for another model around those years for another application) -spark plug gap is standard at .025  - and FYI the timing spec is 20 degrees for yours and 14-18 degrees on the later electronic ignition models (same generator)  .

[fgutie35]

Oopps! I read your private message before this one D:oH! . Well I really appreciate your time and effort to help me with my problems. You are a great asset to this forum and I hope and pray I can some day return the favor.

[RV Mech Tech]

Glad to help out!! - that's what makes this forum great - everyone can contribute what they know to help other members with their RV's and  help them save money too!! - no matter what type of vintage machinery you are talking about,  this kind of tech info is what keeps these MH's  running - as I have said before  some shops do not want to work on these older RV's at all and others will if you can provide the information required for specs so they can do the work for you if you can't do the work yourself - also many members have done upgrades on the vintage RV's and this is beneficial as well - I am reading  a lot about the "10 year rule" on other forums where people get turned away from campgrounds if their MH or trailer is more than 10 years old  so having your Rv in good shape pays off!!!   

[Oz]

I'm not up on points at all.  Did you get this problem solved then? 

[fgutie35]

I have not have the chance yet but with all the ammo that RV Tech already provided for me, I'm more than confident that I will get that issue resolved. I still will let you guys know after I'm done, so it can help others that may find themselves in the same situation in the future.

[fgutie35]

Well Good news, It fire up right away!!
Thanks to RV Mech Tech, my genny is now purring like a kitten. Well, this is what I ended up doing, in case someone goes thru the same thing. First, I removed the new parts (condenser and points), then I went to the parts store and had them exchange the condenser for the right one (manufacture date after Sep. 1987). Then I replaced the wire that goes from the points to the coil and installed the new condenser (attached to the resistor fastening bolt). Then, at the old points (since it was working with those points), I measured the distance between plates at the adjusting screw, with a caliper. Then I set the new points to that same distance. I installed the points, then rotated the shaft to fine tune the gap (.016in). I replaced the oil and fired up. Thanks guys you saved me a ton of money!!

[RV Mech Tech]

fgutie35 - good to hear you got it running!!! -  you saved yourself  a ton of money - we just helped you !!  - if you put your mind to it you can do a lot of the repairs to your Winnie or vintage RV with the technical help that's available here on CWVRV  and that's what keeps everyone going- even if you have to take your vintage RV in for service members have this info available to them from the resource library or manuals or info from other members so that they know what's involved in the repair so that they do not get taken advantage of.