Engine cranks a long time before starting

Started by The_Handier_Man1, November 16, 2008, 12:03 PM

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The_Handier_Man1


From: Jupp318  (Original Message)
Sent: 7/13/2005 8:16 AM

Hi Guys,

Di you find that your Winnie will always start but only if you have it cranking for a long time?.  I did, and in trying to cure another problem I seem to have fixed the long cranking thing.

I though my Winnie was suffering from petrol perculation when sitting in traffic and so I fitted a Summit 1" four hole phenolic spacer to keep the carb cool.  Now it fires before getting a whole revolution of cranking done, almost a shame really as I have purchased but not yet fitted an electric fuel pump with cartridge filter!




From: In2fire1
Sent: 7/13/2005 1:57 PM

Hi,
I have the same problem when the MH is hot. What type of carb and engine do you have?  Can I trouble you for the part number from Summit. Thanks




From: Slantsixness
Sent: 1/25/2006 12:45 PM

First and foremost, diagnose the problem correctly: A bad fuel pump or clogged filter will exhibit these hard starting characteristics, too.

This applies to any motor Big block or Small, GM, Ford or Dodge and use 2 or 4 barrel carbs.

Fuel perculation (vapor lock) is common in Winnies. There are a few things you do have to look at:

"Vapor lock" can be caused in 3 different areas..
1. Carb float bowl perculation This is what was happening to Ian, above. It keeps the float up (inlet closed off) and causes little or no fuel flow. a way to correct this is to use a riser plate, or even a 1/16" aluminum heat sink plate under the carb. Usually this condition is made worse when the engine is overheating or overloaded. Keeping the engine cool solves 90% of this condition.
2. Fuel lines routed too close to the engine, and no cool air circulates around it. The proper placement of the steel fuel lines is at least 1" off the motor surface. If you have dash AC, this is usually hampered by the installation of the compressor. In any case, be sure that the fuel lines are routed at least 2" away from the exhaust manifold, and in the cooling fan air path.
3. Fuel pump is worn out. Although not really a perculation problem, a fuel pump with a damaged pump bladder will pump inefficiently, and bleed down rather quickly. This will cause the float bowl to empty (gravity sucks, doesn't it!). The end result is hard starting and prolonged cranking, with the appearnce of vapor locking (but it's not!).

One other consideration is that the fuel tank vent is clogged. This can also vapor lock the motor. If this is happening, then be assured that the fuel pump is damaged from sucking air, and that can cause more symptoms. Fuel pumps are cheap ($15-25) and easy to change. If you ever suspect a problem with the tank, change the pump too.

I do not like using electric fuel pumps. I especially dislike using electric fuel pumps to overcome another fuel system problem that is being ignored. The mechanical fuel pumps available for every single Dodge motor made, are adequate for any carb you would consider putting on the motor. The down side of electric fuel pumps, (which is "fuel washout", where the fuel pump overcomes the carb float seat because of no regulation and dumps fuel down the intake manifold, or even out the carb vent) is that it will ruin the entire engine, let alone could cause a Winnie destroying fire, before you can say "uh-oh".

Always change your fuel filters often, I change mine at least once a season and keep two spares in the Winnie. "stuff just gets in there", even if your tank is coated with POR15.

Tom