Phillips PC-301-A-2 converter died, need help replacing it

[outdoorsguy36]

I have a 72'  D27C Winnebago and the converter died a few weeks back. I opened the breaker box and checked each breaker and all of them have power going to them and out, but none of the interior lights work. The spec's on the converter are Input:115v AC, output:12.7v DC, 6amps, 60 cycles, current:30amps DC. I found a Phillips converter on Ebay that is a PC-301-A-1, the specs are all the same except it has 4.65amps instead of 6amps. I'm not sure if this will work or not. I don't use the water heater, furnace, refridge, or battery charger. I always connect to power at a campground and only use the interior lights. By the way the wall outlets work fine it is just the interior lights that no longer have power.

[ClydesdaleKevin]

If you have a coach battery in place, then your lights should still work inside even if the converter dies...until the battery/batteries drain themselves dead.  Without the batteries in place, the lights should still work with a good converter, but not work with a bad one.

To test the converter and eliminate it from the equation, make sure you are plugged into shore power, and check to see if its putting out 12 volts.  Older converters will hum from the transformer inside, so if its not humming, chances are its dead.  But check the 12 volts wires coming out of it anyway with a volt meter.  If you're not getting 12 volts coming out of it, its dead...unless there isn't 120 volts going into it.  So now set your voltmeter to AC, and check the AC wires coming into the converter.  Some of the older converters were hard wired to the AC system, so trace the wires and find a place where you can check the AC voltage coming in.  Some of the older converters, and pretty much all the new ones, plug into an AC outlet, so if that's how your's is, check the AC at the plug.

If you have 120 volts going in, and no 12 volts coming out, its dead and needs to be replaced.

Powermax makes great converters at a fair price...we have the 100 amp Boondocker model which would be way overkill for your application.  But there are a lot of good converters out there and the new ones have battery chargers built in.  I would avoid getting another Phillips.  Go with one of the new models with smart charging capabilites.

In the member resource section, look up converters...cheapconverters.com...or is it bestconverters.com...has really good deals and ship really fast.

Kev

[ClydesdaleKevin]

Yep, its http://www.bestconverter.com/ .  These are plug and play...just hook up the 12 volt wires, plug it into the AC, and you're done!

If you have batteries, the lights should be working even if the converter is dead.  Unless the batteries are dead too.  So check the volts at your batteries as well.

Kev

[DaveVA78Chieftain]

Does yours have the fuse compartment in front?
http://dave78chieftain.zxq.net/Phillips/Phillips%20Power%20Converter.pdf

The 4.65 vs 6 amps is just saying efficiency of the later model was better than an earlier model.  These converters contain an automatic transfer relay that should pick up the coach battery when there is no AC input.  However, there is a thermal breaker that if it fails neither coach batery or converter power will be passed on.  If you are only concerned about lights then the EBAY one is fine.

If you are just wanting a power supply for lights (not connected to battery) then 12VDC bulbs only pull about 1.5 amps so ten 1.5 amp bulbs pull 15 amps.  You could get by with a 20 amp 12VDC power supply if wanted to.  Just do not connect it to the battery.

Dave

[outdoorsguy36]

I checked the power at the breaker were the power converter connects, and the breaker is showing 120v to the converter. I haven't had the chance to check the lines coming from the converter but it is not humming, and the box is solid with no exterior fuses just air vents. I have never had batteries connected to the 12v dc terminals, just the one for the engine. So the older model converter would work fine is what your saying if all I want to do is run the interior lights?

[ClydesdaleKevin]

Yep...the older converter would work fine for just lights if you are never going to install batteries and only run on shore power.  But look at the cost before buying an older style one.  A brand new Powermax, lower amp unit than the one we have, runs right around 120 bucks, and are far superior to the old ones.  If the one on eBay is around that price, I'd go for the new one.  That way, if you ever decide you want to travel around a bit and want lights while on the road, you'll already be set up for it...all you'd have to do later is add batteries.  Right now you only go to campgrounds and plug in, but in the future you might change that, so why spend the money twice if you don't have to?  Just compare the cost before making a final decision.

Kev

[Rickf1985]

If they have gone out and you cannot afford to buy a new setup from Best convertor, then I would suggest a regular battery charger from Wal-Mart to get you by until you get to your destination. That will keep your batteries charged up when you are plugged in.  I am not familiar with your motor home but most have a switch somewhere that will allow charging of the house batteries while the engine is running from the alternator. On some it is done automatically. You would have to check battery voltage while the engine is running to see if it is coming up if you cannot find a "AUX" switch.

[Rickf1985]

My converter is a mess. My wife and I are on a very fixed income, and I just don't have the money for a converter unfortunately. She's got cancer and we're trying to get to North Carolina, and really need the converter to work. Here's what I'm working with. I have a magnetek power plus 45amp power converter battery charger in my Motorhome that's on a Chevy chassis, and I've got an older Phillips power converter and battery charger (pc-301-a-1). Can someone please help me to figure something out?

Dave is our electrical wizard and he checks in in the evenings so watch for him later this evening probably after dinner. Where are you located now?

[DaveVA78Chieftain]

Hmm, you guys really like to challenge me.

First, as you know the Magnetek 6345 converter is 45 amps
The Phillips pc-301-a-1 is only 35 amps so you will not have as much juice.
Also given that the Phillips is about 10 years older design, it will be noisier due to less filtering (can affect Radios, TV's, microwaves and such.
Fortunately, both units have built-in 12VDC select relays.
However, you want to reuse the Magnetek DC fuse panel which means you will have to disconnect the converter output from the fuse panel (if installed) located in the front of the Phillips unit.

So while going backwards in technology is not common, it can be done in this case due to the similar implementation approach.  Modern designs (e.g Boondocker and PD9100/9200 Series converters) do not use a built in battery/converter relay)

AC input:
Hot Lead: Black wire
Neutral lead: White wire

DC: 
Battery lead: red wire on both converters
Negative lead: white wire on both converters
Positive load lead: Blue Wire on both converters.

Given your situation, send me a PM with your normal e-mail address if you need manuals that have the schematics for these units.

[Rickf1985]

I think this is way beyond my pay grade and it sounds like they are on the road and in need of help NOW. So YOU, My man are the master at this stuff.