Replace or Repair Chassis Air Conditioner?

[LJ-TJ]

Hey Frank, remember looking at my chassis air conditioner last year at Jim's Hm? Well I ventured out today and found the Data plate. It's a Tecumseh Model/Custom Ident HG0100 MFG 2/4F/74 BM No.99209-2 Ser.4471712.
So since I don't know what any of that means can you point me is some king of direction as to were I go from here. Can I fix it, can I buy another one or am I just SOL. Thanks T.J.

[Froggy1936]

Hi TJ  Tucumsa is just a manufacturers name. of compressor. Take the info you have to a decent parts store and tell them you need a compressor clutch bearing and a puller tool  they are not that expensive.  There is a small bolt in the center of the clutch (wich goes into crankshaft) Energize the clutch (turn on the AC with engine not running and remove ctr bolt)  Useing puller remove clutch assy remove snap ring from rear of pully and press (support assy) out bearing  ot drive it out w hammer and drift. reverse dissassemby to reinstall all readjust belt tighten ctr bold and viola done  Frank

[LJ-TJ]

 :)rotflmao GOD I love ya mate. You have an uncanny way of making everything sound so simple. I think I'll wait till I get state side. Would NAPA or Advance or Auto Zone have what I need? Thanks for responding mate. Can't wait to get the rig out it's driving me CRAZY.  D:oH!

[Froggy1936]

Your favorite,  NAPA, best bet or go online and order ,from    Nostalgic Air Parts   They have a lot of neat stuff  Frank

[ClydesdaleKevin]

Patti wants us to get the dash air fixed on our rig, so we asked our mechanics here in AZ.  They said they could convert it over to 134A, and have it up and running for less than 300 bucks...or they could redo the whole system, all new parts and MADE for 134a, for around a grand.  Just to give you an idea of prices and whatnot.  My mechanics here in AZ are more honest and less expensive than most anywhere else we've tried.

Kev

[LJ-TJ]

Wow! No kidding.

[Lefty]

I did A/C service, as well as R 134A conversions all the time. I'm ASE Certified for working on R-12 or R-134A systems.
I'll do a write up on how you can do it yourself and save some major bucks.
You will still need a shop for some of the work though... because of strict regulations as well as some of the specialized equipment. But I can show you how to do the biggest majority of work yourself.
Gimme a day.   Ivan

[Lefty]

Ok, this is cheating a bit.. but I found two sites that give pretty good information that saves me sitting for 2 hrs typing one myself. 

http://www.wikihow.com/Fix-Your-Car%27s-Air-Conditioner

And this site, that not only has a good basic breakdown on how A/C works.. but they also sell all kinds of A/C parts too.
http://www.heco.net/maincat/compressors.pdf

I do have some recommendations myself though.
Be sure to flush the old mineral oil from the system. A/C flush is available in quart sizes and 1 quart is enough to do a system.
Take note of the flow direction going to the condenser, from the compressor to the condenser is the intake side, and from the condenser to the evaporator is the outlet side. You want to back-flush the system, so remove both lines, cover the inlet side with a towel (one that can be tossed later), and add 8 oz of oil to the outlet port of the condenser. I use a cheap turkey injector that you can buy at any grocery store... just remove the needle. Use compressed air to blow the flush thru the condenser.
You will also need to flush the evaporator. The procedure is the same as before... add 8 oz to the outlet side and back-flush it.
You need to replace the following components.. The expansion valve (get one calibrated for use with 134A), the dryer (which contains a desiccant bag and must be replaced if the system is left open for any length of time), any original O-Rings or gaskets (replace with ones designed for R134A)
Your original lines should be rebuilt using Barrier Hose for any rubber sections. This is because the original hoses are too porous for R134A and will allow the new refrigerant to bleed right thru them. Call around and you should be able to find a shop that can rebuild your original ends with Barrier Hose.
If your system uses a clutch cycling switch, it might can be adjusted for use with R134A. Unplug the electrical connection to it, and you should see a screw between the electrical blades on the switch. Turn this screw 1/4 turn counter clockwise to set it to operate at the correct pressures for R134A. Then reconnect the electrical connection. If yours is non-adjustable, you should be able to buy a new one that is specifically for R134A.
Another thing I stress is the importance of pulling a deep vacuum on the system prior to adding any freon.
This will remove any moisture from the system, preventing harmful buildup of ice crystals. The physics of it is simple. Water boils at 212 deg F. at sea level. Raising the pressure increases the boiling point, lowering it decreases the boiling point. A vacuum decreases the pressure enuogh for water to boil at room temperature, turning it into a vapor, which the vacuum can then suck out. A vacuum should be applied to bring the internal pressure to at least -28" for a minimum of 1 hour.
Last Tips- Use Ester oil for systems converted to R134A from R12, use PAG oil for systems that have always been R134A.
Adding a flourecent dye to the oil will allow any leaks to be found easily using a standard black light bulb.
Venting freon into the atmosphere is illegal.. if your system still has a charge in it, take it to a shop to have it removed. Some shops will actually credit you for the R12 freon removed and apply the credit towards your final bill... R12 is valuable.

[Elandan2]

That compressor is available if needed.  I bought one a couple of years ago in St. Catharines ON from a truck and bus supply shop.  They had them on the shelf.  Around $300.  As far as refrigerant, I'd just go with that replacement stuff you see at all the auto supply shops.  You can get it in larger containers and save quite a bit over the price of those small canisters.  If you read the specs on it, even though it contains propane, the flash point is quite a bit higher than 134A and the cooling properties are much better.  I've read that Dupont spent a fortune lobbying to get 134A approved as the "new" refrigerant, even though there were better ones out there.  Anyways, those refrigerants are compatible with R12 systems so there are no seals to change and the head pressures actually remain lower in the system.  Rick

[LJ-TJ]

Hey Rick, ya still got the bill were you got yours from. I'm over here in Tillsonburg a few hours away. If I can call them and they got what I need I'll be over there with bells on. Save me a hole lot of dink'n around an believe it or not money. Thanks for the post.

[Elandan2]

I'll look it up tommorrow and post it here.  I will get the part numbers off the compressor as well.  It is not a Tecumseh compressor, but looks identical and my clutch fit right on.  Rick

[Froggy1936]

TJ You do not need a new compressor. Just a clutch bearing. Also most new compressors do not come with a pulley and clutch. So even with a new compressor you will still need a new clutch (pulley) or replace the bearing in your old one   Anew compressor is a waste of money. And you do not have to mess with anything pertaining to refrigerant even if you have to remove your compressor. You have service valves on your compressor that can be closed and maintain 99% of refrigerant. Frank

[Elandan2]

Sorry I can't find the receipt for the compressor but it is built by TCCI Manufacturing.  Their website is: http://www.tccimfg.com/index.php  You will find the compressor listed under the 2 cylinder compressors.  Mine is a TUBE O Left Hand,
Model Number T210L-21160.  I am still trying to get the address for the garage where I purchased mine, I will post when I get it.  You should be able to get it at any truck part place in Windsor, Chatham or London, that would be much closer than going all the way to Niagara.

[Elandan2]

I found the address.  Nick's New & Used Truck Parts, 244 Dunkirk Road, St. Catharines, ON, (905) 687-7031.

[LJ-TJ]

Aaaaah Your  a prince. I'll give them a call and see what they got to say. Thanks a million.